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Found 19 results

  1. Hello! Newbie here who just did her first bisque fire ever. I have a Cress FX23p kiln with a kiln sitter. The commercial glaze that I have purchased says to apply to 04 bisqueware and then fire to cone 5 or 6. So I set my kiln sitter up with a 04 junior cone, loaded up my greenware (after much arranging and rearranging of furniture) and witness cones, and fired her up! I've attached a photo of the witness cones from the top and middle shelves (my kiln only has 2 peep holes so I did not place any on the bottom shelf since I wouldn't be able to view them). I had a brain fart when lining the cones up, so from left to right its top shelf 05, 04, 03, and then bottom shelf 05, 04, 03. I realized after the fact that I should have lined them up 03, 04, 05. Worried that the 04 witness cone did not bend far enough, I did some research and found that perhaps I should have used a 03 junior cone as the junior cone will bend quicker than the witness due to the gravity of the actuating rod. The pieces came out looking like bisqueware of course but I am worried about applying the commercial glaze since it calls for it to be applied to 04 bisqueware. Should I go ahead and apply the glaze anyway? Thank you in advance!! Let me know if you need more info provided.
  2. I am interested in Your input... I want to tile my bathroom myself, using tiles I created with molds. So the tiles created MUST be WATER PROOF! Firing the green ware using a home kiln, using my 110v house hold run wiring. Finally after firing to bisque, glazing to fire. I live in a townhouse so extra venting or drilling is not possible. I know this venture is going to take forever unless Covid takes me. What kind of kiln? How and why. I use to help my mom when she use to do ceramics. Way back with cones and giant kilns. So not what I want nor need
  3. I’m using plain terra sig made with xx saggar on Laguna 80 red clay. I bisqued and remained waxy and white. Perfect. then I added Psuedo Celedon glaze to the interior of the cylinder. Some dripped so I wiped off the whole pot with a wet clean sponge. When it dried, the white Terra Sig started turning bright yellow. Marker yellow. Won’t wash off... Any idea why this would happen?
  4. I've been doing clay for a while now, so not a total noob, but have had my biggest disaster in clay to date. I have to admit I have not done a ton of hand building in the last few years, but have done enough to know the basics. I was hand-building some larger pieces. Scored and slip attachments to sides. (The same way I have scored for ten years without having issues.) I dried them very slowly under plastic, as I live in northern Arizona and things dry way too fast here. They were built with Laguna's Rod's Bod. I built each piece one at a time, during the day, so the slabs would be close to the same moisture. I throw out my slabs for each piece all at one time, by hand, and finish by rolling them between dow rods to get thickness relatively close. I kept extra slabs covered while working on the main piece. The only thing I can think that may have had an effect was that I let these dry in my garage. (We just moved into this house, so I consider this a variable I haven't dealt with before. In my last house, I dried my hand built items inside the house, and had no issues.) My garage is not heated, but attached to the house, so it never got below 45 degrees F. But the temperature ranged from probably 70 F in the day to 45 F at night. It never fell below freezing, though. Everything looked fine, but when they were bisque fired, most of the attachments fell off. (see photos) Could the range of drying temperature have cause my problem? I am racking my brain trying to figure this out. Please help...
  5. I’m new to ceramics and recently bought a used kiln that’s quite old but works like a charm. i don’t really know what the numbers on the knobs are and I’m trying to bisque cone 06 and glaze cone 6. I don’t have pyrometic bars for the cone 06 bisque so any help on what the numbers on the knobs signify and how to reach the desired temp would be awesome. (I do have glass cone 6 bars)
  6. Just asking because . Whe bisquing I have all bunbgs out till 700degC then put all in except one on lid, top loader electric. Done this for years, still solid logic? No vent
  7. Hello! I just did a bisque firing with my Paragon A55B which has a manual kiln sitter. I fired to 06 in only 3 hours and 15 minutes following the suggested firing schedule from paragon. Which was as follows: 1 hour - Low, Top peephole out, lid vented 30 min - Medium, top peephole out, lid vented 30 min - High, top peephole out, lid vented Then just leave on high with peepholes in and lid closed. Does anyone have any suggestions for the best way to slow this cycle down a bit? Or do you think thats fine for a bisque? I imagine with more pots in it, it will slow it down a bit but its a small kiln and doesn't hold that much. Thanks!! Ariel
  8. Hi, I am using Flax Paper Clay Porcelain ES6000 to make some small flowers and the finished pieces are around 1cm thick at the fattest point. The issue I have is that I have no idea how to go about firing and glazing porcelain. Do I bisque fire porcelain? If yes what temperature should I fire to? Can I fire porcelain in the same firing as other clays (B17C Stoneware) ? Looking on the Scarva website it says the firing temperature is 1220ºC - 1280ºC but I am unsure as to what temperature the clay stops being able to absorb glaze? Thank you so much in advance!!
  9. Hi, Hope this hasn't been asked anywhere else and I'm repeating a question but I've scoured the internet and can't find much of help... Even though I have studied ceramics at 2 levels, during neither course were we taught about firing schedules... Over the past few years I've been using and tweaking schedules given to me by an amateur potter friend but they aren't cutting it anymore. I've recently been approached by 2 shops/galleries who want to sell my work but glaze faults are making it difficult for me to be happy with results as I can't seem to avoid miniature pinholing and am wondering if the firing schedule is the problem. I have a nabertherm top loader, and the control panel allows 5 time segments. 1. Delay 2. Ramp One 3. Ramp Two 4. Soak 5. Cooling. Currently I fire 80oc an hour for 10 hours, 100oC for 2 hours (reaching 1000oC), 15minute soak, and finish for bisque. For glost I use 150oC an hour for 5 hours, 100oC an hour for 4.5 hours (reaching 1200oC), 15min soak, and off. From reading around online I now wonder if these schedules may be too fast? Or may it be something as simple as needing elements replaced? (Although an electrician has tested them and said they're in good working order). Any advice or suggested schedules would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. P.S. I have tried multiple clay bodies so don't believe that clay is an issue. I also use an extraction fan so I don't think it is a buildup of gases within the kiln chamber either. The glazes I use are commercial and mixed by the manufacturers instructions including sieving before use.
  10. Hello! Does anybody have experience firing Standard Clay 112 or 182 to cone 06/6? These are the clays that I work with and typically my studio fires to cone 05/5. However, I have recently started working out of home and found a studio nearby that will fire my work, but to cone 06/6. I want to be sure that I like the result before committing to the change.
  11. Hi Everyone! Hoping to get some tips on using Amaco bisque fix, before I use on some of my pieces. I know this can be great for sealing cracks, but the problem I have run into is that my stamp does not press into greenware well. I wish I had tried to fix with slip before firing, but I was working too quickly. I do not want to give up some of these pieces since this is just the bottom! And they otherwise look nice. My plan was to try using bisque fix to fill in the stamp impression, sand the piece, and paint over with white underglaze. Then I can ideally re-stamp with underglaze instead of impressing into the clay. For those who have used bisque fix, does this seem like it may work? Can bisque fix be used on the bottom or could it potentially stick to the kiln? Any insight is appreciated! Thank you!
  12. HI, I have a really long hairline crack in a sculpture that just came out of bisque fire :/ The crack is from the base to the neck, goes all the way through but very thin. Been doing research regarding Bisque fix, Mend it and paper clay. Looking for advise on which is better for hairline as cannot assure product completely fills the middle. Really want to glaze this to cone 6 without it separating even if I have to rebisque.,
  13. Hello, I recently bought some OH10 (they were out of OH6) and was told I could just fire at cone 6 and everything would be fine. Then I was told the pieces wouldn’t vitrify and would be too porous for use (mugs and bowls). The studio will bisque the OH10 for me and asked if I have my own cone 10 glazes. The question is, can I fire my cone 6 glazes on the cone 10 bisqued pieces? Thank you for the help! Josh
  14. Hi everyone! I just recently bought a used Cress FX27P electric kiln so I can start firing work at home. So I just recently started my first bisque firing yesterday at 4pm. It was more of a test fire, so I didn't put a lot of work in there, about 15 wheel thrown pieces. There were a couple pieces in there that were not fully bone dry so I set the firing speed at E, the slowest speed. I also put a pyrometric cone (04) in the sitter, 1 peep hole open, and set the thumb wheel to 1, and I set the timer to 16 hours so it can shut off at that time in case anything goes wrong. Throughout the day and night I checked periodically, and the kiln did get red hot, so the elements seemed fine to me, but I didn't take a look at the thumbwheel. So this morning I went to go check on the kiln, and it fired the full 16 hours! and the kiln sitter didn't go off, so the the kiln didn't reach cone 04 temp. Also, the thumbwheel stayed at 1! It didn't move! So I'm thinking the thumbwheel is broken or needs repair, I didn't put the cone in right, or something is wrong with the elements. And even 16 plus hours later the kiln was still showing orange to red heat signatures inside the peep hole. So I talked to my friend who has experience firing kilns, and he said to just fire the thing until the kiln sitter shuts off and set the thumbwheel to 10 max temp as soon as possible so the kiln doesn't have to reheat back to 1000 for the sake of energy efficiency. If anyone has any ideas, input, advice, or suggestions I'd greatly appreciate it! I'm hoping to bisque fire and glaze fire using this kiln in the near future, I already bought a couple pints of cone 6 glazes to test out. Thanks!
  15. From the album: Ceramics Fall 2016

    Bisqued Sake set. This was glazed in tenmoku and I will grab photos of them later today. Since my work is fired in a classroom setting, all my cups were placed in different areas of the kiln, so each one looks slightly different.
  16. From the album: Tornado Pot Sketches and Progress Images

    For those who have been following along with the drama of making "F3 - The Wizard of Oz" tornado container, this second version survived the bisque firing and awaits detailing with underglaze and glazing...hopefully, a single glaze firing and perhaps a single decal firing. Read more about this project and projects by other artists in the Ceramic Arts Community Forum - "Community Challenge #2".
  17. From the album: What I am up to

    Same stuff diferent view.
  18. From the album: What I am up to

    Side view of the mug and bowls after the glaze has been applied. Now just a little cone six firing away from the finished product.
  19. So, I've been working on two slab projects for the last 2 weeks. Both of them have some pieces in the 3rd dimension as well as lots of 2D detail. I finished constructing both pieces today and despite how shaky my hands were, managed to paint both almost immaculately. Thing is, I forgot to give them a bisque firing before I jumped into glazing them. They're so detailed that there's no way I can remove the glaze without destroying the work in the process, so unless there's another way to make finished work out of them, they're garbage and I wasted my time, materials, and effort. My instructor must have felt really bad for me, because as I was sticking the pieces back on the rack and deciding whether or not to trash them she came over and decided my stuff was special enough that we were going to try a risky operation, putting both pieces through both bisque firing and final firing despite them being glazed out of order. She says that the color won't be as consistent and you couldn't eat off of them (fine by me, because they're not dishes), but they should still stick together and come out okay. Before we try this, however, I wanted to take some initiative and research both the risks of this test and any alternatives. Despite my excellent googling skills, I haven't been able to find an article or forum topic specific enough to my situation, so I figured I'd start one myself. Any and all information you can give me will be useful. I just want to know what might happen if we try to fire this thing and/or if there are any other ways to save the work with less risk involved.
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