Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'Porcelain'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Ceramic Arts Daily Forums
    • Forum FAQ & Terms of Use
    • Studio Operations and Making Work
    • Clay and Glaze Chemistry
    • Equipment Use and Repair
    • Business, Marketing, and Accounting
    • Educational Approaches and Resources
    • Aesthetic Approaches and Philosophy
    • Int'l Ceramic Artists Network (ICAN) Operations and Benefits
    • Ceramic Events of Interest
    • Community Marketplace – Buy/Sell/Trade/Free

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

  1. Unique pieces for the unique individuals. Enjoy a piece of art in your everyday life, something you can touch and use, that expresses yourself. That is not mass manufactured, provides ergonomic hold with different texture, satisfy your sensation in visual, touch and taste. Enhance the experience of drinking tea, like the Japanese tea ceremony. The purpose of my collections are to bring joy to people through the appreciation of the beauty in ceramic, and carry the passion from one to another in our daily life. The stamp you see on the pieces is the last word of my Mandarin n
  2. Hi all, I have been throwing with Babu porcelain, glazing with Reeve's Clear glaze. I fire to cone 10, in a light reduction, gas kiln. I notice that the Reeve's clear seems to craze more than I want in a food vessel, even when thinly applied. It seems to fit stoneware better than porcelain, with much less crazing. I know Babu shrinks more than stoneware, so it's clearly a glaze fit issue. Has anyone found a better clear glaze that doesn't craze, for use on cone 10 porcelain? Do you have any suggestions as to how I might get a better glaze fit on Babu? I use Babu because of its clear, whit
  3. From the album: Gas kiln 2013.09.05

    gas kiln, reduction , cone 10
  4. From the album: Gas kiln 2013.09.05

    gas kiln, reduction , cone 10
  5. From the album: Gas kiln 2013.09.05

    gas kiln, reduction , cone 10
  6. From the album: Gas kiln 2013.09.05

    gas kiln, reduction , cone 10
  7. I'm back after I long hiatus! Pottery, I've missed you so. After careful consideration of my physical abilities I chosen slip casting molds as a start. I have made molds in the past and am now brushing up on the steps. I want to start with porcelain slip casting; however, I cannot seem to put my fingers on a supply of porcelain slip here in Palm Springs California. I looked at one recipe online to make porcelain slip myself and would like guidance on a good recipe for porcelain slip. Is it hard to make? If so, maybe someone could point me in a direction to buy porcelain slip here in the
  8. From the album: Return of the Duck - Return of the Duck in Orange Sauce

    ^06 glazes over previously fired ^6 glazes, with melted glass sauce

    © Norm Stuart

  9. Jack Troy – Pottery Forms: Intention and Happenstance WS05 – Saturday & Sunday, 10-4pm, November 9 & 10 Fee: $200 member/$225 non-member This 2-day demonstration/discussion workshop includes presentations on Japanese teabowls as well as both contemporary and historic pots to help enlarge our approach to our persoanl work and emphasize the evolution of personal forms — pots with a unique identity. Using the cup as a take-off point, Jack will demonstrate how the cup reflects a concern for functional and aesthetic values, including surface decoration, tactile qualities, inside
  10. Hi everyone! I'm new here, and new to ceramics. I will be hand building miniatures. My main question right now is, how can you tell when the clay pieces are dry? I've searched online, and the only answer I have found is that they are dry when they no longer feel cold when touched against your face/wrist. I have created some pieces to test my clay samples (various types of stoneware and porcelain clay). After 3 weeks, they still feel fairly cold on my face. They are about 1/2" thick, and I realize that drying will take longer with this thickness. But, it seems like they have felt t
  11. From the album: FdA CCP Final Exhibition

    Gwynn Tir (White Land) is a critical view of social, political and cultural issues arising from the destruction of the Cornish farming and mining communities. I have been exploring the fragile existence of the landscape and these fading industries; the thrown cylinder becomes metaphor for the abundant chimneys that remind us of a past unique to Cornwall. The china clay industry and the geology of the Cornish landscape is the backdrop for this investigation of tension between function and fragility. Whilst each pot is given its own detail and character, grouped together, their individuality
  12. Hi guys, I'm making some porcelain eggs slip cast, I usually do bisque firing ^04 and then clear glaze firing ^06. I need to finish some by next week and I don't have enough ware to do 2 low fire firings, so, I'm thinking to do single firing, I'm using ^6 laguna porcelain slip and the clear is ^06 commercial glaze. Any thoughts on this matter, do you think it would be ok? Pom.
  13. Hello there, Im not a ceramicist (Im learning little bits here, doing workshops there...), Im an illustrative designer, but I would like to create decals of my designs and put them onto dinnerware. I was hoping someone out there could give me a bit of information....I have a few questions. First: I would like my designs to be transfered onto stoneware or porcelain. As far as I can tell there is no issue with that? My designs have very fine line detail, so I feel that an onglaze digital decal (as opposed to a tissue transfer, or screenprint) would probably ensure a sharp image. Ho
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.