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Found 194 results

  1. So, I need a crack expert. I have a piece of cone 6 porcelain greenware that keeps cracking when it drys. I've repaired it numerous times, dried it for weeks, wet the entire piece down, nothing is working. It's a small crack on the edge of the piece. 1 cm maybe. I can not make it again, I need to fix this crack. Help me please!
  2. From the album: My work 2017 (Year 1)

    I have carved some floral designs onto some of my parian vases. I think they would make lovely candle holders or lamp shades. New direction possible.
  3. From the album: My work 2017 (Year 1)

    I love the randomness of the colour splashes in these pieces.
  4. From the album: LeeU 2-5-17 Fire

    Small incense cone holder-porcelain
  5. From the album: Translucent porcelain

    Translucent porcelain:press molded,altered and carved. Interior glazed. Electric fired to cone 10. Southern Ice. 12 x 14 x 4
  6. Hi everyone, I'm going to be doing a lot of hand building of porcelain, plates. platters. Should I bisque fire upside down (on rims), right way up, on kiln washed shelves or on calcite alumina? Thanks Andrea
  7. Hello everyone, I have set the kiln to fire at night time and it switched off in the middle of the firing because of a power cut. Can I fire that again to get to the right temperature? Will the glaze be compromised? Thank you! Tatiana
  8. Hello everyone, I have set the kiln to fire at night time and it switched off in the middle of the firing because of a power cut. Can I fire that again to get to the right temperature? Will the glaze be compromised? Thank you! Tatiana
  9. Hi all, I've had an order for some slab platters for Christmas. I know last minute shopping! So I've slabbed four already, I've been told that porcelain slabs need to dry slowly. Problem being is we're in mid summer with temps of +30 deg C, I have no storage room since I work outside. Can anyone confirm this info? If so how long should I keep them wrapped in plastic? Bearing in mind that every time I work on them they dry even more. Thanks Andread
  10. I read somewhere not to use stilts with porcelain (high fire) as the wire will meld into the body...but no instruction as to what to use instead (alumina sand??) What are some other ways to keep the glazed pieces off the shelf? Thanks in advance
  11. Hi, I would like to ask a question regarding reduction firing of porcelain. After (some of) my firings there seems to be a thin layer on top of my porcelain objects, which is not very white, more slightly yellowish grey. It very subtle though. But I realised when I sand it for a while it goes off, though this is quite labour intense work. I would like to understand better why this happens. Does someone know if it would be possible to avoid this? I have heard earlier that some ingredients also fired in the kiln might affect the porcelain colour. My reduction firing, was reduction from 950 to 1200 and fired till 1250. In about and around 15 hours. Any tips or information would be very welcome. As I would love to understand the reduction firing process better. Thank you so much!
  12. From the album: Monoprinting with plaster

    Tile I made using a plaster slab, underglazes and porcelain casting slip, learned technique in Andrew Wandless' book 'Image Transfer on Clay' and also Joanne Veevers on CAD. This is still in greenware stage, not entirely sure how all of those colors will look as bisque and then glazed
  13. Hello! This may be a question that's a little silly, but I can't seem to find the answer anywhere. I've taken a liking to brushing on glazes on a banding wheel, as I've used earthenware clay/glazes for the majority of my time making pottery, and just recently decided to try a few different clay bodies and still intend to use brush-ons as much as I can. My question comes from the level of difficulty brushing 3 coats onto Cone 6 stoneware or porcelain (that has been fired and matured to Cone 6) brings, as It's not porous and takes a while for each coat to fully dry. As I've been looking at some different company glazes/glaze combinations and techniques (specifically Mayco), a lot of them have said to bisque fire to Cone 04, and then glaze fire to Cone 6 and it makes sense to me, but I still can't find it written anywhere definitively that that is the way to go about brushing on stoneware glazes. Is bisque firing stoneware or cone 6 porcelain to Cone 04 and then glaze firing to 6 a common practice when brushing on glazes or even dipping? Any information regarding this topic is greatly appreciated or any tips etc. about brush on stoneware glazes are also welcome! Thank you in advance!! Caden.
  14. I just tried making paperclay slip from a recipe that I was given at a workshop. The slip has turned out extremely runny and will not dry. To a 50# bag of dry porcelain clay Add to one qt of warm water • 7 grams Barium Carbonate • 13 grams soda ash To a 5 gallon bucket add • 2 gallons of water Add the barium carb mixture to the water and mix for 5 minutes, and while water is mixing: get mixture ready • ¾-1 oz of sodium silicate • 1 oz Darvon • 2 oz of water The paper pulp is made separately and added to the slip. First, it wasn't clear that you don't add the pulp to the entire 5 gallons of slip, so I added it to 2 gallons. I tried dipping wire and after 30 minutes, it's still wet. I left both the slip and the paperclay slip uncovered overnight in hopes of evaporating water, but that hasn't helped. I would really want to save this batch because I can't afford another 50# bag of porcelain. I wonder if there was too much deflocullent in the slip? Can I save it by adding a flocullent like epsom salts? Btw, are the epsom salts bought at a drugstore the same used in ceramics? Aloha - Eve
  15. Hello! This is my first post after reading so much fabulous and useful advice on these forums the last couple of years. I'm still a bit of a newbie potter and I've been selling for just over a year. So far I've been really pleased and no complaints or negative comments (exception: why don't you make in blue?) LOL. So I sent off a pair of mugs (Etsy sale) and the new owner is really happy with them, except that he just tried to microwave one to reheat his beverage, and he heard some "pinging" noises. He was alarmed and took the mug out and didn't try again; he's just wondering if I know what is going on. The details: I use Tuckers Pottery 6-50 cone 6 porcelain clay. I fire to cone 6 based on witness cones. (I use cone 7 in the kiln sitter to get there). Glaze: I am making my own glazes. The liner glaze in these mugs was an Assad Opalescent (basic high percentage frit based glaze with no added oxides). Outside was a floating blue glaze (from John Britt's book of Cone 6 glazes: Floating Blue #2) I've used both of these before and have been very happy, and I've personally have had no problems with anything in my home. Unfortunately, I have sold everything at this moment that has this exact glaze combo. Also not sure if a mug done the same isn't necessarily going to be a perfect "test" as glaze thicknesses, exact kiln position, exact top temp, etc may be slightly different? Any advice would be really appreciated! Mostly I'd like to know if in *your* opinion I should tell this buyer not to try to nuke these mugs? I know I've been a bit "reckless" in claiming my things are microwave safe and I'm sorry now I did without being more sure. I've read the forums about the astm standards and I plan to at least test more carefully than just a few things I have at home. Thanks in advance! Cheers, Lorraine.
  16. Hi, I would like to ask tips and tricks on finding in Japan a ready made, very plasticity porcelain body which is translucent and white white. I have searched several pottery website and finding Arita porcelain clay body and Kutani. I have no idea which one. Since I'm new here, I thought other people with more experience might have some tips for me. Also if you have any tips on what I should not miss in Japan, it is more then welcome. Thank you so much!
  17. From the album: Avatar

    Small Christmas tree Ornament made with porcelain, stamped with a stamp of my own design, underglazed.

    © My own design

  18. Our online School of art is growing! Marcia Selsor's class is open for registration and is filling up nicely. David Voorhees's class on wheel thrown porcelain is open for the second time, while porcelainbyAntoinette is running 3 classes, one a complete beginners class on pinching teapots ( Pinching porcelain teapots will be added to this class in future) Details are available here: http://teachinart.com/frequent-asked-questions.html You can also get a sense of what this is all about here: http://teachinart.com/preview-e-courses.html
  19. Hi guys! Recently I asked about a silicone ring inside a mug and received a lot of good feedback. As a result I decided to ditch the silicone and attach an aluminum oxide piece to the mug instead. I have attached a picture of the test results. It is so close! The alumina sticks well, but small cracks will be formed on the glazing. Do you know of any tricks to minimize cracking? The parts were fired to 1260C with high temp. glazing. -Harry
  20. From the album: newer work

    Hand pipe with bearded face sculpted on to bowl.
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