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  1. Hello from a newbie to the forums and to ceramics! I’ve read info from the Ceramic Arts Network for a while, but I’ve just joined the forum tonight. I’m an intermediate handbuilder and beginner thrower looking to expand my skill set and absorb as much knowledge as I can! My ceramics teacher is a sculpture artist and not a ceramicist, so while I’ve learned a ton about handbuilding from her, there’s a lot she says she can’t teach me about glaze, special firing techniques, and advanced throwing. I’m looking to build a collection of great, thorough resources (forum posts here, names of
  2. I am making some drinking mugs for a Renaissance Faire. I am using Kentucky Mudworks Brown Bear clay body, one I have just started using recently (I LOVE the beautiful chocolate brown color after firing). I threw the mugs and then attached a shield-shaped slab piece on the front, and am etching out the name of our Ren Fest on the front. I love the idea of leaving the shield unglazed and just glazing the rest of the mug around it, but I'm afraid the etched out words/image will not be very legible since the clay is so dark. I tried to find pictures of similar things on the internet and couldn't
  3. Hi, I'm beginer in ceramic world. And i want to know how to make glaze same under photo. I tried many time but not sucessfull. Can you help me? Thanks
  4. Hi ...... Did a glaze firing using black and white porcelain , using the same transparent glaze On the white it sat very well On the black came out milky with spots ( tho was told this glaze works well on black porcelain as doesn’t give a brown color after firing ) The other issue I had with the black porcelain is that the glaze stayed quiet wet after dipping ,and did not adhere on rims well Thank you Nicky
  5. How do i do this effect in which there is no glaze in the lines between the spaces? should i not glaze those parts? or do they get that worn-out look on their own? I will be very grateful to the people who help me. I think this effect is incredible.
  6. Hi, Hope this hasn't been asked anywhere else and I'm repeating a question but I've scoured the internet and can't find much of help... Even though I have studied ceramics at 2 levels, during neither course were we taught about firing schedules... Over the past few years I've been using and tweaking schedules given to me by an amateur potter friend but they aren't cutting it anymore. I've recently been approached by 2 shops/galleries who want to sell my work but glaze faults are making it difficult for me to be happy with results as I can't seem to avoid miniature pinholing and am wo
  7. Hello, My white gloss glaze has recently started pinholing I believe. We have been using it for years with no issue. i initially started with the kiln it is firing to temp. We fire slow bisque and slow glaze programs to 06 and 6. I have tried bisquing to 04 with a hold on the end but the defect came back... I have tried a hold on the end of a glaze firing (20 minutes) with little improvement. We have tried the ware with this glaze in 3 different kilns all have the same problem especially on larger ware. We have also tried wiping down the ware lightly with a sponge on both
  8. Hello! Does anybody have experience firing Standard Clay 112 or 182 to cone 06/6? These are the clays that I work with and typically my studio fires to cone 05/5. However, I have recently started working out of home and found a studio nearby that will fire my work, but to cone 06/6. I want to be sure that I like the result before committing to the change.
  9. Hi all. Can anyone please recommend some food safe, high fire, clear matte/satin glazes? I'll be using it over fired underglaze on slipcast mugs I'm working on. Amaco recommended their SM-10 (https://www.amaco.com/products/glaze-sm-10-clear?ref=2&taxon_id=284) to me, so I'm going to try that out. But I'd like to see what other people are using as well. They can be dippable, sprayable, brushable - anything. I just want to test some different products to find what I like best. Also, I understand that the matte/satin clears aren't entirely crystal clear in the way that gl
  10. I'm using 4 mil Mylar stencils. Glaze tends to crawl under the edge of the stencil which takes a lot of work cleaning up. I have tried making the glaze quite thick with CMC. This is helpful but it is not getting the job done. I am careful to brush away from the stencil. Suggestions please
  11. Hi, I'm trying to get the elusive oxidation copper red with localized reduction glaze to work. Everywhere I look it suggests 600 mesh silicon carbide is necessary to get the localized reduction. The silicon carbide I have is 400 mesh. How can I increase the mesh of my silicon carbide?
  12. Hi all, Currently I work with mid-fire slip and glaze my work 'traditionally' to achieve quite muted, natural tones. I'm thinking about making some wares that I want to be BRIGHT and flat in colour - like popping, primary colours. I'm wondering what the best way to achieve this level of colour would be? In my experience using stains in glazes never seems to achieve the flatness I'm after. I would suspect a coloured slip might be the answer but again using stains only seems to result in pastels - what is the average ratio of stain to slip to achieve a full bodied
  13. I just found a bunch of little vials full of colorants at a garage sale. The adult children of the ceramic artist were selling these and didn't know what they were or how to use them. The vials are clearly colorants but I'm not sure if they are similar to Mason stains. Is anyone familiar with Maxfield Dresden studios out of Glendale CA? There is also 3 glass sheets with some dark substance on them. The box says Maxfield's unfluxed gold. They were cheap but I have no clue if I can use them or what to do with them. Any input is appreciated!
  14. Does anyone have a simple clear gloss recipe that you love for cone 6 ox suitable for clear and color? Simple, stable and preferably cheap. Same for matte surface. Prefer a soft satin matte, not too dry. Thanks!
  15. Hi there, Like many artists, I am currently transitioning from making pottery in a community studio to working at home which is a big adjustment with an even bigger learning curve! I'll be setting up my very first kiln in the coming weeks and now need to figure out (for the first time) what the best commercial glazes out there are for the clay I'm using. For now I am using Standard #112 clay, and I will also eventually be working with their #551 Porcelain (both cone 6). I will be firing in a Skutt Km818 electric kiln. I have two big questions. First, does anyone have any tips
  16. I am wondering if anyone has tried using the paint spray guns from harbor freight that run around $16.99. Or is it a you get what you pay for situation and worth the $50 to buy the PH300 glaze sprayer from the ceramic suppliers? Do paint sprayers even work for glaze, or will the just get all clogged up? I make 1" ceramic pendants and hand brush the fronts and backs. two coats on the back and three on the top. I currently have hundreds to do, and I think the time saved by using a spray gun will be the way to go.
  17. Hi all, pretty new to the world of creating my own glazes - I have found several on glazy.org that I like (although I'm aware that an opensource online forum for glazes can be potentially disastrous). The question that I have is for silicon carbide. The recipe I'm referencing is this https://glazy.org/recipes/20474 which calls for a 1200 mesh SiC. The original recipe - https://glazy.org/recipes/19163 - calls for 1000 mesh SiC. The pottery supplier in my area carries only 400 mesh. What would the difference in appearance be? There's a massive difference in how those two glazes look and I w
  18. Hi everyone! I just recently bought a used Cress FX27P electric kiln so I can start firing work at home. So I just recently started my first bisque firing yesterday at 4pm. It was more of a test fire, so I didn't put a lot of work in there, about 15 wheel thrown pieces. There were a couple pieces in there that were not fully bone dry so I set the firing speed at E, the slowest speed. I also put a pyrometric cone (04) in the sitter, 1 peep hole open, and set the thumb wheel to 1, and I set the timer to 16 hours so it can shut off at that time in case anything goes wrong. Throughout the day
  19. Hello, I recently bought some OH10 (they were out of OH6) and was told I could just fire at cone 6 and everything would be fine. Then I was told the pieces wouldn’t vitrify and would be too porous for use (mugs and bowls). The studio will bisque the OH10 for me and asked if I have my own cone 10 glazes. The question is, can I fire my cone 6 glazes on the cone 10 bisqued pieces? Thank you for the help! Josh
  20. Hey guys! I'm looking to make a sink basin for my bathroom in the upcoming months. I want to use Standard Ceramics 266 Dark Brown Clay with a turquoise/seafoam glaze on the interior while leaving the exterior bare. Attached is an idea of what I would like to do. I have never used a dark clay before, so I don't have experience to work off of and can't make test tiles until it is safe to use the studio again. Would coating the inside of the clay with a white underglaze cause the blue glaze to stand out more? Does anyone have a good glaze suggestion that stands out and reacts well to this clay? O
  21. I’m on a really long and frustrating journey trying to find a glaze/clay match to avoid crazing. But why, time and time again, on YouTube and Instagram am I finding potters with high follower numbers and ‘JUST SOLD OUT ETSY RESTOCK’ posts who are advertising pots, which have clearly got crazing issues?? Is there a ‘generally accepted’ level of crazing one should expect? Is it ‘normal’ to hear your pottery ping when getting it out of the kiln then later pouring hot liquid in? I’ve been driving myself nuts, but it appears to not be as serious as I initially thought... am I wa
  22. Hello, I wanted to make some large ceramic sculptures, but I will need to cut them because they will not fit in my kiln. Does anyone know how I could conceal cut marks on the sculpture on glazed areas? Thanks, Callum
  23. Super newbie to the world of glazes. I have a few recipes from a trusted source, and upon recommendation I purchased several mason stains to add to a base glaze for an inexpensive and stable option. I used the super basic 20x5 base glossy glaze and added my stains to that as a trial. Some of them are great, but most of them are homogeneous in appearance. There's no variegation, it's not very interesting to look at. I'm wondering if there's something I can add to the 20x5 recipe, or a different clear glossy base glaze that would give the stains a more variegated appearance. Any help is apprecia
  24. Hi all. Am having trouble with pinholes. I am using some commercial glazes and one glaze I mixed up from a recipe I found online. I clean my pieces very well before I glaze. I allow to dry before glazing, and leave them covered until glazing. I believe maybe it could be my one glaze recipe, or perhaps it could be the firing. I rent a space and the owner does the firings. He will not let anyone else fire and he blames all defects on you or your pots. Any help is so much appreciated. I am attaching a photo of a bad example of a glaze with a pinhole I got this firing.
  25. From the album: Clay Tests

    © TJA 2020

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