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  1. I love HCSM 1 + 2 from John Britt's Mastering Cone 6 but I need a white semi-matte glaze. Has anyone had any luck adding zircopax to these glazes to make them opaque and white? I did some searching and couldn't find anything. Would love some feedback from the hive mind before I jump (more like fall) headfirst into testing mode. Thanks bunches.
  2. Hi folks, Today I was working on the Wedding Jar that I had made for a nephew, and was trying to accent their lettering for names and dates. I had stamped these in, but it was not quite clear so I cleaned them up and added a stain over top thinking to do a little mishima to bring the letters up. However, due to the curved surface I lost some of the letter forms. What to do. I used a small brush after engraving the missing areas to flow the glaze in, and that worked. At the same time I decided to use the brush with a white engobe to accent the flowers of the mountain laurel I had stamped i
  3. Hi there, I have Amaco Potters Choice glazes and they say that they should be fired to cone 5/6. I am very new to pottery and was wondering what this means in terms of the firing schedule in my Nabetherm kiln. I have been trying to get the effects as shown on their website but they do not look very similar! What would the different outcomes of cone 5 and 6 be? Thanks so much and really appreciate any help, lara
  4. I’m new to ceramics and recently bought a used kiln that’s quite old but works like a charm. i don’t really know what the numbers on the knobs are and I’m trying to bisque cone 06 and glaze cone 6. I don’t have pyrometic bars for the cone 06 bisque so any help on what the numbers on the knobs signify and how to reach the desired temp would be awesome. (I do have glass cone 6 bars)
  5. Hi everyone, i’m new to making ceramics and i have two questions. First one is that is it possible to paint your ceramics before it’s bisque? Second one is that please can somebody recommend me a good brand which has underglaze paints?
  6. Hello from a newbie to the forums and to ceramics! I’ve read info from the Ceramic Arts Network for a while, but I’ve just joined the forum tonight. I’m an intermediate handbuilder and beginner thrower looking to expand my skill set and absorb as much knowledge as I can! My ceramics teacher is a sculpture artist and not a ceramicist, so while I’ve learned a ton about handbuilding from her, there’s a lot she says she can’t teach me about glaze, special firing techniques, and advanced throwing. I’m looking to build a collection of great, thorough resources (forum posts here, names of
  7. Wondering what the closest frit/frits substitute would be for Fero 3134, Aus 4108 would be.
  8. I'm still trying to get my arms around this concept of "flocculation and deflocculation". Specifically, here is my question: If I measure a glaze's specific gravity, and it is "X", and I then flocculate the glaze by adding epsom salts, will I then find that the specific gravity of the glaze has changed? If so, will it be higher or lower? The flocculation process makes the glaze seem "thicker" so I am assuming the SG has increased, but ...........?
  9. Hi guys. I`ve purchased some Underglaze powder pigments. In description is written that I can mix it with water to use like an underglaze. I mixed it with water (5g powder to 10ml water; 5g -15 ml; 5g - 20ml) and draw to bisque pots. After it dries, color is easily removable with friction. I mean, if i touch paint, it comes off. Then I mixed 5g powder to 5g clay and 20 ml water. Difference was clear. Color was well balanced and it was not easily removable. So basically, in first method, I`m mixing water and powder, in second method Slip and powder. I wonder, is any of this method w
  10. Hi everyone! I just recently bought a used Cress FX27P electric kiln so I can start firing work at home. So I just recently started my first bisque firing yesterday at 4pm. It was more of a test fire, so I didn't put a lot of work in there, about 15 wheel thrown pieces. There were a couple pieces in there that were not fully bone dry so I set the firing speed at E, the slowest speed. I also put a pyrometric cone (04) in the sitter, 1 peep hole open, and set the thumb wheel to 1, and I set the timer to 16 hours so it can shut off at that time in case anything goes wrong. Throughout the day
  11. Hi, I was just wondering if anyone had tips or insight in how best to create bright colours with a matt finish? I thought I could colour the clay bodies and use a clear matt glaze but have found that the overall finish clouded or dull. Thanks in advance.
  12. Hi, I am using Flax Paper Clay Porcelain ES6000 to make some small flowers and the finished pieces are around 1cm thick at the fattest point. The issue I have is that I have no idea how to go about firing and glazing porcelain. Do I bisque fire porcelain? If yes what temperature should I fire to? Can I fire porcelain in the same firing as other clays (B17C Stoneware) ? Looking on the Scarva website it says the firing temperature is 1220ºC - 1280ºC but I am unsure as to what temperature the clay stops being able to absorb glaze? Thank you so much in advance!!
  13. Hello, My white gloss glaze has recently started pinholing I believe. We have been using it for years with no issue. i initially started with the kiln it is firing to temp. We fire slow bisque and slow glaze programs to 06 and 6. I have tried bisquing to 04 with a hold on the end but the defect came back... I have tried a hold on the end of a glaze firing (20 minutes) with little improvement. We have tried the ware with this glaze in 3 different kilns all have the same problem especially on larger ware. We have also tried wiping down the ware lightly with a sponge on both
  14. Hi, I am new to ceramic glazing. Are there any methods that can duplicate fire-based glazing on ceramics? I work at home, so i do not have access to kiln. I have read there are oven-based glazes and non-fire based glaze. How effective are they in terms of the glaze (will it be similar to fire glazed plate)? Thank You.
  15. I am making some drinking mugs for a Renaissance Faire. I am using Kentucky Mudworks Brown Bear clay body, one I have just started using recently (I LOVE the beautiful chocolate brown color after firing). I threw the mugs and then attached a shield-shaped slab piece on the front, and am etching out the name of our Ren Fest on the front. I love the idea of leaving the shield unglazed and just glazing the rest of the mug around it, but I'm afraid the etched out words/image will not be very legible since the clay is so dark. I tried to find pictures of similar things on the internet and couldn't
  16. Hi, I'm beginer in ceramic world. And i want to know how to make glaze same under photo. I tried many time but not sucessfull. Can you help me? Thanks
  17. Hi ...... Did a glaze firing using black and white porcelain , using the same transparent glaze On the white it sat very well On the black came out milky with spots ( tho was told this glaze works well on black porcelain as doesn’t give a brown color after firing ) The other issue I had with the black porcelain is that the glaze stayed quiet wet after dipping ,and did not adhere on rims well Thank you Nicky
  18. How do i do this effect in which there is no glaze in the lines between the spaces? should i not glaze those parts? or do they get that worn-out look on their own? I will be very grateful to the people who help me. I think this effect is incredible.
  19. Hi, Hope this hasn't been asked anywhere else and I'm repeating a question but I've scoured the internet and can't find much of help... Even though I have studied ceramics at 2 levels, during neither course were we taught about firing schedules... Over the past few years I've been using and tweaking schedules given to me by an amateur potter friend but they aren't cutting it anymore. I've recently been approached by 2 shops/galleries who want to sell my work but glaze faults are making it difficult for me to be happy with results as I can't seem to avoid miniature pinholing and am wo
  20. Hello! Does anybody have experience firing Standard Clay 112 or 182 to cone 06/6? These are the clays that I work with and typically my studio fires to cone 05/5. However, I have recently started working out of home and found a studio nearby that will fire my work, but to cone 06/6. I want to be sure that I like the result before committing to the change.
  21. Hi all. Can anyone please recommend some food safe, high fire, clear matte/satin glazes? I'll be using it over fired underglaze on slipcast mugs I'm working on. Amaco recommended their SM-10 (https://www.amaco.com/products/glaze-sm-10-clear?ref=2&taxon_id=284) to me, so I'm going to try that out. But I'd like to see what other people are using as well. They can be dippable, sprayable, brushable - anything. I just want to test some different products to find what I like best. Also, I understand that the matte/satin clears aren't entirely crystal clear in the way that gl
  22. I'm using 4 mil Mylar stencils. Glaze tends to crawl under the edge of the stencil which takes a lot of work cleaning up. I have tried making the glaze quite thick with CMC. This is helpful but it is not getting the job done. I am careful to brush away from the stencil. Suggestions please
  23. Hi, I'm trying to get the elusive oxidation copper red with localized reduction glaze to work. Everywhere I look it suggests 600 mesh silicon carbide is necessary to get the localized reduction. The silicon carbide I have is 400 mesh. How can I increase the mesh of my silicon carbide?
  24. Hi all, Currently I work with mid-fire slip and glaze my work 'traditionally' to achieve quite muted, natural tones. I'm thinking about making some wares that I want to be BRIGHT and flat in colour - like popping, primary colours. I'm wondering what the best way to achieve this level of colour would be? In my experience using stains in glazes never seems to achieve the flatness I'm after. I would suspect a coloured slip might be the answer but again using stains only seems to result in pastels - what is the average ratio of stain to slip to achieve a full bodied
  25. I just found a bunch of little vials full of colorants at a garage sale. The adult children of the ceramic artist were selling these and didn't know what they were or how to use them. The vials are clearly colorants but I'm not sure if they are similar to Mason stains. Is anyone familiar with Maxfield Dresden studios out of Glendale CA? There is also 3 glass sheets with some dark substance on them. The box says Maxfield's unfluxed gold. They were cheap but I have no clue if I can use them or what to do with them. Any input is appreciated!
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