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  1. Okay, I have a decision to make. I've always felt that bowls for actual use are often best at displaying food if the interior of the bowl is white. On the other hand, decorating the exterior of a shallow soup bowl means that no one will see the decoration without taking the time to pick up the piece. So I've almost always decided in favor of decorated interiors. I still feel that the interiors of large shallow bowls make the best canvas for decorative surface treatments, but now I'm trying to decide if I should change my ways and make my smaller bowls with white interiors and decora
  2. Hi All, I'm a high-schooler taking a Ceramics II course, and I love it! I specialize in wheel throwing and I'm really interested in fusing glass on ceramic pieces. How would I do this? My teacher recommended putting marbles in my bowls to melt the glass with the glaze, but I'm curious on what others have to say! Also, where can I either get special glass, or get marbles to melt! Write me back! Thanks, Travis
  3. Hi, I am hoping that someone can help me out. I am looking for a cone 10 clear that works well in oxidation, specifically with underglazes, mason stains and color in general. In our studio we have a Laguna Clear and another that work okay in reduction but not well with the colors our students use. I know it can be difficult to have some underglazes come through at cone 10, but, I'm hoping to find a really solid clear that doesn't bubble up, cloud or burn out the color so severely. We use a commercial speedball clear sometimes but it is getting too expensive and I would love to have on
  4. Hi, I have fired black mountain clay in cone 10 reduction w/creamy glaze and love the iron speckles that come through. I see a thread of discussion last year about this w/suggestions. I am looking for any recommendations for creamy glazes (gloss or matt) that would work in electric cone 5/6 (oxidation) that might yield similar results. Any recipes or suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance!
  5. I've been noticing this glazing technique in some pottery on Pinterest ,( both modern and antique pieces ) and wondered what it was called. It seems that the lines must be done with a resist, so I tried some wax in a squeeze bottle but could not get a consistent line width. Anybody know about this technique?
  6. Morning to you all, I've just had a disastrous weekend trying to glaze items for firing. I don't have a large amount of any specific glaze so trying to make do is proving challenging to say the least. I've had to scrape down to bisque most of the items and now have to start again. How do you recover from a weekend from pottery hell? I really enjoy the final result but the prep work gets to me. I suppose I'm not yet experienced enough to go through a prep without problems. Part of the growing pains of experience! Look forward as always to your advice. Andrea
  7. Hi people, If I want to glaze the bottom of a pot do I put a disc of clay underneath so that the pot doesn't stick to the shelf?
  8. Newbie here. I've been experimenting using different colored clay bodies and even colored clays using oxides and stains. Mostly for neriage/agateware technique. So far i've been leaving the exterior unglazed to show the true colors of the clay (usually buff, with ochre, white, or bclay). I've tried to glaze my pieces using an cone 6 oxidation clear glaze and cone 10 reduction clear glaze, but i find that the clay colors gets "covered" up by the glaze. Expecially in cone 10 where most of my dark clays (with iron) turns grey. Can anyone suggest an alternative glaze or material tha
  9. From the album: Rogryphon's stuff

    Love dragons and have fun making yarn bowls. So did a dragon's egg yarn bowl. Lots of fun since it is a bit unique and creates a nice surface to play with glaze combos. Amaco salt buff under celadon sky.

    © gryphonwyck 2015

  10. Hello I have made a beautiful gold flecked glaze but it is too runny! How can i fix it? Carol
  11. Hi I am busy working on some ballerina figures and would like to make a flesh-like shiny brown glaze for them-but with some variegated effects in the glaze, and need quite a thick, smooth finish. have tried a few recipes unsuccessfully Can anyone help please? Carol
  12. I have a laser which I have been using to engrave designs into big store bought ceramic tiles. Up to this point I have been color filling them with rub-n-buff or I have painted them and engraved off all the paint except the design itself. Sometimes I mask the tiles and laser thru the mask and then paint and remove the mask after painting. I also have a sand blaster which I sometimes use to etch the tiles deeper than the laser can do. I have a kiln ordered that will fire cone 10. I would like to color the engravings and fire them in the kiln so the completed tiles can be set using sande
  13. I'm not sure why some cone 6 glazes change color rather drastically when refired to a lower temperature, but maybe someone can explain. Specifically, Coyote Ice Blue glaze fired to cone 6 turned out the usual beautiful multi-hued blue, brownish at the breaks. Then I decided to put some low fire clear glaze on the bottom and refired the piece at cone 06. The result was an awful, mottled green and brown camouflage-like color. Yeechhh!! So I refired back up to cone 6 again hoping to recover the blues. The piece now looks much better - the greens are gone - but the subtler blues are also
  14. I've seen an ultra suede dry matte glaze used on earthenware. Is it a custome recipe? Done in colors too. Is it possible to get the same effect using other clays? See attached image. Thanks in advance for any information on the topic. MJ
  15. I have a couple of buckets of unknown glaze materials. When I test fired them I got a very dry underfired result. Then I set about adding various materials, looking for what would make it fusible, something like a glaze. Testing systematically, I have added every material I have at hand and in combinations, such as, silica, feldspar, talc, whiting, gerstley borate, china clay, alumina, nepheline syenite, borax, rutile, and so on, at various quantities 10, 20 %. I can not get much of a change, and it has got me beat. Surely something has to give. Of course maybe if I added something at 50
  16. From the album: Ceramic Boxes

    My newest box. I wanted to see how much control I could maintain over my glazes so l drew stripes of varying thicknesses on the box then glazed each a different color. I then used some of my laser transfer designs and each color of stripe got a different pattern. The ribbon I rolled a scrolled pattern into while still wet then twisted and attached it so that it could be used as a handle. With all the color on the outside I went with a simple white interior glaze.

    © Terry Buffington

  17. From the album: Ceramic Boxes

    This was an experiment to see if I could fire a diamond shaped box with the glaze going around all sides. I did it! The stand is separate from the box but the way I designed the triangle base makes the box fit really snuggle into it. This is also the first time I used a mason stain wash instead of underglaze for the gold background on the box. The modern flowers are an underglaze transfer. The base is a simple RIO wash.

    © Terry Buffington

  18. From the album: Ceramic Boxes

    What's better than a gift wrapped box? Why an OPEN gift wrapped box!

    © Terry Buffington

  19. This 2-day workshop will explore an array of leatherhard and bisqueware decorative options to enhance your pottery surface. Demonstrations are divided into two sections: pre and post firing. Initial explorations will begin in the green-ware stage to include the use of slip, slip trailing, sprigging, as well as trimming. In the bisqueware portion, glaze strategies will be investigated with trailing and waxing techniques demonstrated. Upon the completion of this workshop you will be armed with a variety of skills to apply towards your future pottery practice. Participants will have the oppor
  20. Hello! Could anyone please give me hints on where to go next best to figure out where the following problem comes from? Here are three examples of first tests made by me and my friend with glazes we found in recepy books and online, all for cone 6. We are using an electric kiln at one workshop where we can only program a ramp with three steps and so we tried the following firing programme, while skipping the step 1 and the last one (so we had no hold on cooling and just had the kiln switch off after the 15min hold on the top temperature). here the original firing programme: http://di
  21. Hi all, Looking for some help. Firing my kiln today, doing something new. Doing a programmed ramp and cool down. After 250 degrees I am ramping at 500 degrees an hour to 1978 degrees (farenhieght). My kiln vent is on and appears to be working properly. The only other difference is the kiln is loaded with three new glazes. I have thoroughly tested the glazes, just never done a load of just the new glazes. Firing to a top temp of 2225. Using a cone 6 red clay, same as usual. The problem, the studio smells, really strongly. It is a normal firing smell as in my previous place I fired in an
  22. Hey everybody, been doing some testing and went through my first gas firing. (click my sig link if you are interested in the firing) I thought it was a disaster but others tell me not so much. Expectations will absolutely RUIN your happiness. Anyways, I have 2 glazes that I really kinda dig. The first glaze is a leach white which is nice and I'm still doing some tuning on that. Below is an example of the leach 4-3-2-1 glaze that went through the gas firing with too much reduction and made it to cone 9. I put a sprinkling of FE203 Red Iron Oxide and a sprinkling of Rutile as well just to see w
  23. John Britt has graciously allowed Tony Hansen, creator of Insight, to add the recipes from his book, "The Complete Guide To Mid-Range Glazes", into Inside-Live. It is still important to buy John's book because it offers far more than just glaze recipes. It's an outstanding book that provides a wealth knowledge about glaze chemistry. If anyone has pictures of the glazes on tiles or pots, send them to Hansen or me so that he can add them to Insight-Live. Also, include clay type and firing schedule.
  24. I've been doing a lot of photography here lately (a grim necessity if you have an Etsy shop.) One of the recommendations for the photos used in the shop is for a close-up of some detail. At first I tried to get close to the pot to take these, but then I realized that my camera has so much resolution available that it worked a lot better to just zoom into a shot of the whole pot until I found something good. In the course of this I discovered that you could see stuff in the glaze surface that wasn't obvious to the naked eye, and I became somewhat obsessed with looking at these extreme clo
  25. Hello everyone, I wanted to ask why the glaze might break after cooking the piece when it`s cooling off. Thank you very much. Sofía Jacky
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