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  1. A friend of mine and I were having a discussion about my horsehair raku pottery and how much he liked my work. He told me he had his folks' ashes in cardboard boxes on a shelf in his garage and was wondering if I'd be interested in making a couple of horsehair Raku urns for him...incorporating some of the ashes in or on the finished piece. I can't see where or how I'd be able to put the ashes ON the finished piece but thought that it might be possible to incorporate the ashes into the clay body itself, either wedging the ash into the clay or possibly pressing the ashes into the surface of the
  2. Hi! I’ve recently been doing a lot of experiments with clay deposits I’ve found as well as other found materials used in clay or glazed. I’ve been doing a lot of testing with wedging a lot of coarse granite into my clay. It makes it rough to throw with but my hands are tough enough it doesn’t bother me. I’ve usually been applying a found quartz and wood ash glaze that I’ve formulated to these pieces at cone 6 (lots of GB). The glaze gives a nice amber finish and seems to be helping the granite flux as it runs a bit giving nice variation, colour, and texture.
  3. I'm in a bit of a quandary regarding saggar firing. I'd really love to try it, but here's the thing. From what I've read on internet saggar can't be used on functional ware. I've thrown a tall lidded pot and a bud vase/oil holder and I think they both would look really great with the effects of saggar. My question is - having been thrown in stoneware, bisqued to 960 deg C, how would glazing on the inside be affected by saggar firing. I know if I leave unglazed the pot can be used to store spaghetti etc ie. non porous items but the oil pot would not be food safe. If I glaze with earthenware
  4. Can a glaze expert answer this? What are the crystals in those commercial glazes? I want to experiment with my own, but I don't know where to begin. After rinsing the crystals in the commercial glazes, they appear to be broken glass, but surely that's not it. Can someone illuminate this for me? I'm a novice at making my own glazes... Thank you!
  5. Hello, I’m new to ceramics and have been working with some mid-fire porcelain clay as well as white earthenware clay. I made several hundred small jewellery pieces from both clays and had them bisque fired at a local kiln service. Unfortunately they combined all my work together and now I don’t know which is porcelain and which is white earthenware, soI don’t know which clear glaze to use on which piece. Might anyone be able to give me some advice about what I could do? Are these pieces salvagable or bound for the bin?
  6. I have just started making my own glazes, I purchased the raw materials and I used my friend’s hood in her lab to mix up some of the glazes. I have bisqued pieces and the first coat of the glaze went on easily, BUT when I went to apply the the second coat it dried almost as quickly as the brush touched the pot, making it nearly impossible to apply a second coat. It was as if the glaze crystalized upon touching like in a supersaturated solution, but the glaze was well mixed and not supersaturated. This was with “Tin Foil II” and “MFE Turnidge”. I did not wait long between coats…
  7. Hello all, Looking for firing schedules. I have a small manual electric kiln with a kiln sitter and wondering if anyone has a simple, clear firing schedule they follow and could share? I am a beginner trying to learn how to fire for Cone 04 Bisque and then another schedule for Cone 6 Glaze Fire. I am using buff stoneware. Any firing tips appreciated! Thanks so much, Natalie
  8. I have 3 cups that I over-glazed and almost got stuck to the kiln . I was wondering if there was any way I could get it off some of the excess post-firing. Can I rub some of it off with sandpaper? Any suggestions?
  9. Hello, is anyone working in Seoul Korea? I'm trying to speed up my work process but due to lack of resources here in Seoul, it's really hard to find alternative chemicals and glazes to buy here. Could anybody living in Seoul share some tips and helpful information...? (I'm korean but lived and studied ceramics in the States! ) Thank you!
  10. I'm looking for help with a recent glaze issue. I've been using the same clay and white glaze for a couple of years. Now, all of a sudden, I'm getting tiny black specks in the glaze, and it's ruining the clean look I'm trying to achieve. I've used different batches of my perfered clay and glaze, installed new elements, throughly vacuumed the kiln, kept my bisqueware clean. I don't know what else to do to, and don't know what's causing the black specks. Does anyone have any insight on this issue?
  11. I really like this light blue glaze and looking to make something similar. Has anyone seen a similar glaze? What are some good glaze sellers in Europe?
  12. Hi! My previous studio had a beautiful cone 6 glaze called Blue Hares, I'm trying to purchase it since my new studio doesn't have it but all I'm finding is how to mix it yourself. Anyone know if it's possible to buy it online and if so where? Thanks!
  13. Hello, I just unloaded a kiln load and noticed a substantial amount of pinging. My kiln is pretty much brand new (firing #3) and it reached cone 6. The pots are not crazed and hold water perfectly. The glaze seems to "fit" the clay and I see no glaze peeling. I have used both clay and glaze together before with no issues. I cracked the kiln around 300 F and opened it at 250 F. Hopefully, I can get an explanation.
  14. Hi guys! Seeking some help on a project I’ve been working on for a while. To not get too in depth, I’ve been replicating this antique teapot, and need some advice on getting the finish/color right. I’ve struggled and struggled trying to find the right glaze to match, and then I had an epiphany that the orange is NOT a glaze but rather some sort of paint. There’s a definite texture change between the clear glazed areas and the orange. Also, the orange is kind of a satin finish. Does anyone have a clue what type of paint this would be, or what would replicate it? It sort of reminds me of t
  15. hi everyone. i'm Sima from Iran. i'm a beginner. i learned the basics of the glazes. but in here the common kilns the max temp is 1080 C degrees and we don't use cones. i want these effects as i see in every foreign pages and i really appreciate it if anyone could help me to find these glaze recipes that i could use in this temp? and in the bracelet i want the speckles. the dark spots in the glaze. how can i achieve that? thank you. peace Sima
  16. Hi I would like to do a “ one firing “ of AB porcelain slab ( btw....so far so good with previous tips used for drying and warpage thank you ALL again ) Ive mixed black stain with same clay body And drawn a square on slab My question is could I still fire “ one firing “ with a brush on glaze just on the black square Hope this makes ( some ) sense ? kind regards nicky
  17. Any one used the above glaze. It has an addition of 10 rutile in it which seems a lot. Custer Feld 43 Gerstley bor 18 Kaolin 5 Whiting 2 Dolomite. 6 Silica. 18 Zinc oxide. 8 + Rutile 10
  18. Hello, I mostly do sculptural work but occasionally make flat wall pieces out of slabs. They are usually 10 x 10. I have had a couple of these pieces crack in two during glaze firing. I use a low fire clay with compatible glazes and fire them flat on the shelf. I have had suggestions to use alumina but was wondering if I stood them up in the kiln or if using kiln stilts would help? Thoughts? Thank you!!!
  19. Wanted to ask you guys about your experience with this defect we've been having. It's not glaze specific and I highly doubt these growths are just bubbling up from the clay during a glaze firing (but maybe). This defect does not occur only on mugs that are close to the thermocouple, but I don't want to rule out the possibility that it is thermocouple related. Ring any bells?
  20. Someone at the ceramic supply store I've been going to recently mentioned to me that it's possible to do a sort of underpainting with cobalt carbonate mixed with water. (I think...she may have said a different binder, but I'm pretty sure it was water.) I've tried researching it a little and can't seem to find anything on the internet about it or how to do it. Can you paint unfired clay with the cobalt-water mixture before you bisque it? Do you paint it on bisqueware and fire separately before glazing over top? Do you paint it on bisqueware and apply the glaze directly over the top? W
  21. If I could figure out how to attach the correct size photo you could see the what I’m gonna describe... Duncan Clear Satin (SN351) glaze is not running into all the incised lines after the recommended number of coats and fired to cone 06.. It looked completely covered. This has now happened a couple of times and I’m not sure what’s going wrong. The clay is Standard 528. The design was inscised then bisque fired to 06. It was then stained using Amaco velvet underglaze (V361)...allowed to dry before applying the Duncan clear glaze as per mfg. I’ve used this technique for a lon
  22. Hi there, I'm new on this forum and quite new to ceramics and glazes in general so please excuse my lack of knowledge... I've been making ash glazes using this Katherine Pleydell-Bouverie nuka glaze recipe; Mixed woodash 33.0 Feldspar 33.0 Kaolin 16.5 Ball Clay 16.5 On a recent trip to China I aquired some rice straw ash and I was really excited to turn this into a glaze. From what I read rice straw ash should be very high in silica too like other (mixed) wood ashes so I used the same recipe. The results came out rather different then expected or other wood ash based
  23. Greetings! I'm a fairly novice potter who has made figurative pottery with some functionality using Amaco Low Fire White, which fires to 04. These are mostly ring dishes and candle holders. I've recently been looking to make food safe pottery such as plates, teapots, and pie plates, but have been given conflicting reports on how to make them fully food safe. I know that low fire clay is somewhat porous, but would a good quality glaze make them 100% food safe? I also have heard that pie plates and other bakeware may be prone to thermal shock if just stuck into a hot oven, and the
  24. Black Luster is my student's favorite glaze to use. I bought more of it but it arrived very chunky and not like normal glaze chunky-the chunks are hard. I put it through a blender and it broke up the chunks a little but then they reformed. I read that sometimes glazes can get chunky when it is too cold but none of the other glazes we have are doing it. ??
  25. I mixed my glazes yesterday thru 120 mesh sieve twice And noticed crystallized pieces They had settled again this morning ( 2 hours of grinding work and sieved again ) Especially 2 out of 4 had settled Obviously not as much but still rather stiff Even though I added a bit of glaze thinner yesterday( deflocculant ) Could it be that they might be contaminated ???? This has happened before to same batches Any help would be much appreciated Thank you Nicky
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