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Found 232 results

  1. I have just started making my own glazes, I purchased the raw materials and I used my friend’s hood in her lab to mix up some of the glazes. I have bisqued pieces and the first coat of the glaze went on easily, BUT when I went to apply the the second coat it dried almost as quickly as the brush touched the pot, making it nearly impossible to apply a second coat. It was as if the glaze crystalized upon touching like in a supersaturated solution, but the glaze was well mixed and not supersaturated. This was with “Tin Foil II” and “MFE Turnidge”. I did not wait long between coats… Any ideas would be appreciated.
  2. Can Barium carbonate be used in glazes for dishes?
  3. Hello all, Looking for firing schedules. I have a small manual electric kiln with a kiln sitter and wondering if anyone has a simple, clear firing schedule they follow and could share? I am a beginner trying to learn how to fire for Cone 04 Bisque and then another schedule for Cone 6 Glaze Fire. I am using buff stoneware. Any firing tips appreciated! Thanks so much, Natalie
  4. I have 3 cups that I over-glazed and almost got stuck to the kiln . I was wondering if there was any way I could get it off some of the excess post-firing. Can I rub some of it off with sandpaper? Any suggestions?
  5. I'm looking for help with a recent glaze issue. I've been using the same clay and white glaze for a couple of years. Now, all of a sudden, I'm getting tiny black specks in the glaze, and it's ruining the clean look I'm trying to achieve. I've used different batches of my perfered clay and glaze, installed new elements, throughly vacuumed the kiln, kept my bisqueware clean. I don't know what else to do to, and don't know what's causing the black specks. Does anyone have any insight on this issue?
  6. A friend of mine and I were having a discussion about my horsehair raku pottery and how much he liked my work. He told me he had his folks' ashes in cardboard boxes on a shelf in his garage and was wondering if I'd be interested in making a couple of horsehair Raku urns for him...incorporating some of the ashes in or on the finished piece. I can't see where or how I'd be able to put the ashes ON the finished piece but thought that it might be possible to incorporate the ashes into the clay body itself, either wedging the ash into the clay or possibly pressing the ashes into the surface of the wet jars before drying and firing the pieces. On another tack, he was wondering if it would be possible to mix some of the ashes into a glaze and firing the pieces that way. Since ash glazes tend to run when fired, he suggested glazing the bottom of the pots and firing them upside down so the drips would run UP the pot when sitting right side up. (This suggestion is something I plan to experiment with in my regular pottery work...) I don't have enough experience with clay and glaze chemistry to even have an idea of how to go about this and would appreciate any suggestions that might help with this project. In the research that I've started I found that the basic composition of human ash is as follows with the percentages of the primary components. Anything below .01% is not included: Phosphate 47.5% Calcium 25.3% Sulfate (Sulphate) 11.00% Potassium 3.69% Sodium 1.12% Chloride 1.00% Silica 0.9% Aluminum Oxide 0.72% Magnesium 0.418% Thanks, JohnnyK
  7. Hello, is anyone working in Seoul Korea? I'm trying to speed up my work process but due to lack of resources here in Seoul, it's really hard to find alternative chemicals and glazes to buy here. Could anybody living in Seoul share some tips and helpful information...? (I'm korean but lived and studied ceramics in the States! ) Thank you!
  8. I really like this light blue glaze and looking to make something similar. Has anyone seen a similar glaze? What are some good glaze sellers in Europe?
  9. Hello, I just unloaded a kiln load and noticed a substantial amount of pinging. My kiln is pretty much brand new (firing #3) and it reached cone 6. The pots are not crazed and hold water perfectly. The glaze seems to "fit" the clay and I see no glaze peeling. I have used both clay and glaze together before with no issues. I cracked the kiln around 300 F and opened it at 250 F. Hopefully, I can get an explanation.
  10. Hi guys! Seeking some help on a project I’ve been working on for a while. To not get too in depth, I’ve been replicating this antique teapot, and need some advice on getting the finish/color right. I’ve struggled and struggled trying to find the right glaze to match, and then I had an epiphany that the orange is NOT a glaze but rather some sort of paint. There’s a definite texture change between the clear glazed areas and the orange. Also, the orange is kind of a satin finish. Does anyone have a clue what type of paint this would be, or what would replicate it? It sort of reminds me of the finish of vintage Pyrex bowls. This line was produced in the 1940s. I’m guessing they glazed all of the pieces clear, and then painted on some sort of coating afterwards to maybe save money. Anyway, any help would be hugely appreciated! Thanks! Jared
  11. hi everyone. i'm Sima from Iran. i'm a beginner. i learned the basics of the glazes. but in here the common kilns the max temp is 1080 C degrees and we don't use cones. i want these effects as i see in every foreign pages and i really appreciate it if anyone could help me to find these glaze recipes that i could use in this temp? and in the bracelet i want the speckles. the dark spots in the glaze. how can i achieve that? thank you. peace Sima
  12. Any one used the above glaze. It has an addition of 10 rutile in it which seems a lot. Custer Feld 43 Gerstley bor 18 Kaolin 5 Whiting 2 Dolomite. 6 Silica. 18 Zinc oxide. 8 + Rutile 10
  13. Hi I would like to do a “ one firing “ of AB porcelain slab ( btw....so far so good with previous tips used for drying and warpage thank you ALL again ) Ive mixed black stain with same clay body And drawn a square on slab My question is could I still fire “ one firing “ with a brush on glaze just on the black square Hope this makes ( some ) sense ? kind regards nicky
  14. Wanted to ask you guys about your experience with this defect we've been having. It's not glaze specific and I highly doubt these growths are just bubbling up from the clay during a glaze firing (but maybe). This defect does not occur only on mugs that are close to the thermocouple, but I don't want to rule out the possibility that it is thermocouple related. Ring any bells?
  15. If I could figure out how to attach the correct size photo you could see the what I’m gonna describe... Duncan Clear Satin (SN351) glaze is not running into all the incised lines after the recommended number of coats and fired to cone 06.. It looked completely covered. This has now happened a couple of times and I’m not sure what’s going wrong. The clay is Standard 528. The design was inscised then bisque fired to 06. It was then stained using Amaco velvet underglaze (V361)...allowed to dry before applying the Duncan clear glaze as per mfg. I’ve used this technique for a long time with other clay bodies and this never happens, no problems. Any idea what’s going on? Is it the clay? The glaze? My technique? The firing? I could use some help. (And how to upload the right kind and size image).
  16. Hi there, I'm new on this forum and quite new to ceramics and glazes in general so please excuse my lack of knowledge... I've been making ash glazes using this Katherine Pleydell-Bouverie nuka glaze recipe; Mixed woodash 33.0 Feldspar 33.0 Kaolin 16.5 Ball Clay 16.5 On a recent trip to China I aquired some rice straw ash and I was really excited to turn this into a glaze. From what I read rice straw ash should be very high in silica too like other (mixed) wood ashes so I used the same recipe. The results came out rather different then expected or other wood ash based glazes I made using the same recipe. It looks like the glaze didn't melt or run at all. Please see photos for your reference. It seems like there is a lack of silica and fluxed present in the glaze. I want to do some line testing by adding silica in 10% increments and another one adding flux like gersley borate but perhaps somebody here sees something I'm missing or has other ideas. The other thing that could be possible is that I misunderstood in China and I've acquired rice HULL ash instead of rice straw ash. I'm firing in an electric kiln on 1240 degrees and have gotton desirible effects with mixed wood ash glazes based on the same recipe and firing. Thank you for any suggestions or advice.
  17. Hello, I mostly do sculptural work but occasionally make flat wall pieces out of slabs. They are usually 10 x 10. I have had a couple of these pieces crack in two during glaze firing. I use a low fire clay with compatible glazes and fire them flat on the shelf. I have had suggestions to use alumina but was wondering if I stood them up in the kiln or if using kiln stilts would help? Thoughts? Thank you!!!
  18. Greetings! I'm a fairly novice potter who has made figurative pottery with some functionality using Amaco Low Fire White, which fires to 04. These are mostly ring dishes and candle holders. I've recently been looking to make food safe pottery such as plates, teapots, and pie plates, but have been given conflicting reports on how to make them fully food safe. I know that low fire clay is somewhat porous, but would a good quality glaze make them 100% food safe? I also have heard that pie plates and other bakeware may be prone to thermal shock if just stuck into a hot oven, and then contradicting information that well glazed, low fire pots tend to have less of this issue than say, stoneware. I'm not sure, and would love any insight! Thank you!
  19. Black Luster is my student's favorite glaze to use. I bought more of it but it arrived very chunky and not like normal glaze chunky-the chunks are hard. I put it through a blender and it broke up the chunks a little but then they reformed. I read that sometimes glazes can get chunky when it is too cold but none of the other glazes we have are doing it. ??
  20. Hi, so I am new at this and asking for help. I had fired my clay, and painted it (with regular paint, ceramics friendly) and then put a glaze over top. The glaze said it could be used over paint and that it should be clear after firing. After firing the glazed pieces, it seems that the paint has been stripped off and the glaze never went clear. Did I do something wrong? My kiln is a cone 8, bought barely used. I followed the instructions on the side and the internet: Cook on low for 1 hr., medium for 2 hrs., and (after looking it up) another hour on low. Also, is there any way I can fix the pieces? They were gifts and took me a while to make them, but I know they're likely ruined. I appreciate any advice and help.
  21. Hi there I have no idea if this is the right place for this, OR if these questions have already been answered - I searched, but couldn't find what I was looking for I wanted to know how to use Red Iron Oxide in sections of a regularly glazed piece (see attachments), such as a coffee cup with a red iron oxide section.... 1) How/what is the suggested ration for mixing up red iron oxide to be used as a glaze? 2) Do I do the red iron oxide part of the glazing first, then add the rest of the glaze? (see picture for better idea of what I am trying to explain) 3) There are also pieces that appear to be raw clay in parts of the piece, and then regular glaze? (see white and red tree photo and green coffee cup with faint tree lines) - are these types of works still covered in some sort of oxide? Or is it really just un-glazed areas of the work?
  22. I have a question, I have a stepdaughter that is starting her own ceramic studio. She's making Christmas trees. How do I prevent glaze from going in the holes? If they are glazed over how do I clear them period of tried using diamond tips dremmel, I've tried using grinding bits. But the ceramic keeps chipping or the bit wears out after one use. What speed do i set the bit to?
  23. I mixed my glazes yesterday thru 120 mesh sieve twice And noticed crystallized pieces They had settled again this morning ( 2 hours of grinding work and sieved again ) Especially 2 out of 4 had settled Obviously not as much but still rather stiff Even though I added a bit of glaze thinner yesterday( deflocculant ) Could it be that they might be contaminated ???? This has happened before to same batches Any help would be much appreciated Thank you Nicky
  24. Hello, All! I am looking for info on favorite and best clear glazes to use with slip decorations at cone 10, and favorites to use with underglaze at cone 6 on porcelain slip! any and all help is appreciated. I am in my senior year of my ceramics undergrad, so photos of results could be super beneficial because I am not 100% certain of the properties I desire as of just yet. Thank you in advance!
  25. Hello, I have recently set up my home studio to practice pottery alongside my course. I have a question about my glaze firing and wondered if anyone could help? I’ve just done my first glaze firing, I used Botz brush on glaze on my bisque fired white earthenware (bisque fired to 04) and glaze fired at 05. I’m wondering if I should of also done it on 04 as now they are out of the kiln they are pinging like a tinkling noise. The kiln was left for 24hrs before unloading. Ive read that this occurs also when the glaze doesn’t fit the clay, but the glaze is an earthenware glaze so I don’t really understand. Does anyone have any ideas on what I’m doing wrong? Thank you Emma
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