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  1. I have a new-ish L&L E23T kiln with 3" brick; one of the reasons I chose it was its ability to fire to cone 10. Now it seems that I might want to actually start to do that once in a while—I will mostly use it for bisque and cone 5/6. The motivation to do this is that since I left my last membership studio, I had a small load of cone 10 work gas fired at a friends studio, where I can also use her glazes. Despite the very reasonable $.05 per cu. inch cost, this load cost me $72—more than what two full kiln loads would cost in my electric kiln, and almost double what the friend said
  2. Hey everyone! I recently purchased a used Cress FX27P Electric Kiln, and after bisque firing the first time with the automatic kiln sitter, I noticed that the thumbwheel does not move, and appears to have some sort of malfunction. I figured out a way to bisque firing while moving the thumbwheel manually, but I haven't tried glaze firing yet. Anybody owns this kiln or a similar version of this kiln and can help with how I can glaze fire (cone 6) by moving the thumbwheel myself? For everyone that doesn't know what the purpose of the thumbwheel is, there are numbers 0 to 10 on it, and it move
  3. Help! Last night I thought I started a slow glaze to ^5 in my LL e28s, but discovered this morning I had actually hit slow bisque instead. And yes, I had reviewed the program before I ran it - but still missed my mistake. After 8 hours it was at 1080F, and I couldn't find any info on what to do about it so I turned it off. Can I save this load? Anyone else ever done this? Thanks!
  4. Okay, so I really pulled a goofy one this last firing. Had everything in glaze load, loaded up water smoked a bit to keep morning made cone pack from blowing up and to allow the recently glazed pots to dry up. It comes to 12 midnight, and decision time. I know it won't be anywhere near ready til early morning if I fie it to all switches(3) on ten, probably 5 am. I decided to put the bottom on 10, Mid to 9, and the top to 7. All this figuring to fire a little on all at 10 when I got up at 7. Next morning 7 out to the kiln, cone 5, 6, and 7 are down. Can't really tell how bad, but glow is not w
  5. Guys I'm having a serious issue, almost every bisque I have done recently in my new kiln sitter is having explosions. I have been letting my clay sit out longer and get even more bone dry yet it still keeps happening. I've made sure no air bubbles except for one piece had them however this is becoming an issue. Any help or something someone might recommend would be great! With the kiln being a kiln sitter I don't have much control to do holds I can only control the switches on the way up which I have lengthened a lot but once I hit the second switch everything goes boom, very discouraging
  6. I have a number of bisque fired ^10 clay pieces that I made during a class that used ^10 only. At home, I work with ^5 - ^6 clay, and glazes. Can I take my bisqued ^10 clay pieces, fire them in my kiln to ^ 9 or 10, (without glaze) and then glaze them with ^5 glaze and refire to ^5? I know this is an odd question, and it seems to me it would work in theory, just wondering if anyone has any thoughts on this? I no longer have access to ^10 glazes, and would rather not purchase some just for 6 things. Thanks, Linda
  7. Hi everyone! Im so glad I found this page, I recently started up my own little studio finally and was given a small little even heat kiln model k-810 with a kiln sitter. Im doing test firing and it seems to heat up and everything seems fine however being so little I assumed it won't take as long to reach temperature, the cones look like they weren't even affected at all. Im so confused and cannot find any info on this older kiln! Please help
  8. Hello! New user here, I am pretty new to ceramics and just inherited my first kiln! My grandmother passed down a Duncan EA-092 kiln to me, and through internet searches and reading the manual I can not find what its maximum cone temperature is! I read somewhere that someone fired it at 019 (1220 degrees F)....which is a bit disappointing as I wanted to be able to fire at at least cone 5 for the typical clays and glazes I am used to using. I have only been using glazes and kilns through classes, so I have not had much hands on application for firing my own ceramics. My questions are,
  9. Hi wonderful crafters! I've recently acquired a kiln and am ready to jump into ceramics! Though I've done loads of research, I'm still a bit confused about firing times and this whole cones system! I'm using Stoneware Crank clay, and pretty sure I need to fire on a 6 cone. Silly question, does this just mean the temperature? (2269f?) or does it also mean I need to buy one of those actual cones? (Attached image) I'm quite confused by all this information, especially because I've read conflicting things. Thank you for your help! x
  10. Hi All! I am new to the Ceramic Arts Community! I made a few pieces both hand built and on the wheel with terracotta clay. I would like to glaze and fire my pieces in one fire with a clear matte finish. So my questions are... 1. Is it possible to skip the bisque fire and just glaze it and fire it once 2. What cone should I buy for my glaze? 3. Does anyone have any recommendations for clear matte glazes that would work for terracotta Thanks in advance!
  11. Hello! After hours of research online, and racking my brain trying to remember everything I learned in the ceramics class I took 5 years ago, I've found myself here hoping to get some direction! I would like to purchase materials to be able to create 10" by 10" plaques that have a handprint/footprint impression to hang on a wall. After my research, this is what I have come up with.. (Please tell me if something is wrong in my process, or if I am not considering something) 1. Roll out low fire clay to 1/2 inch thick, and make hand/foot impression clay I will use: https://www.am
  12. I am new to using my own kiln, I have an electric one. I use cone 10 porcelain but I don't glaze, I just underglaze. The porcelain after being fired to cone 10 does not come out very white and this is southern ice so it should. The only thing i can think of is that I am putting on a bisque setting till cone 10 (which was recommended by the company L&L Kilns) since I don't do any glazing. Can someone help me out here? Please? Thanks in advance!
  13. Hi, I have an unfired pot (cone 5/6 clay) that has had raw Cone 6 glaze (Coyote Alabaster Satin) applied to the inside. Can I fire this raw pot at bisque temp, leaving the applied glaze inside and then fire again at Cone 6 later? I was going to once fire this pot... but thinking now it would be a better plan to bisque at least a little first since it has some fairly fragile embellishments. Hope this makes sense Thanks!
  14. Last night my daughter and I did a bisque firing in the kiln at cone 04. I've had some pieces shatter that last couple times we've bisque fired, and I have no clue why. Yesterday's firing went great except for a kitchen utensil crock. I was pretty proud of that piece because I just started playing with making vases and such from slab work. Every other piece came out great, except for that one. I made a matching spoon rest, so was pretty disappointed when the bottom shattered out of the utility crock. So here are my questions. 1. Can I try to attach green ware to the bottom of
  15. Hi All, I'm a high-schooler taking a Ceramics II course, and I love it! I specialize in wheel throwing and I'm really interested in fusing glass on ceramic pieces. How would I do this? My teacher recommended putting marbles in my bowls to melt the glass with the glaze, but I'm curious on what others have to say! Also, where can I either get special glass, or get marbles to melt! Write me back! Thanks, Travis
  16. Hello, I would love to start working with porcelain. I found a used kiln which has highest temperature 2300F. Is it enough for firing porcelain? I do understand that different types of porcelain require different temperature. I hope that this kiln will be suited for all of them?
  17. Hello! Could anyone please give me hints on where to go next best to figure out where the following problem comes from? Here are three examples of first tests made by me and my friend with glazes we found in recepy books and online, all for cone 6. We are using an electric kiln at one workshop where we can only program a ramp with three steps and so we tried the following firing programme, while skipping the step 1 and the last one (so we had no hold on cooling and just had the kiln switch off after the 15min hold on the top temperature). here the original firing programme: http://di
  18. Hi all, Looking for some help. Firing my kiln today, doing something new. Doing a programmed ramp and cool down. After 250 degrees I am ramping at 500 degrees an hour to 1978 degrees (farenhieght). My kiln vent is on and appears to be working properly. The only other difference is the kiln is loaded with three new glazes. I have thoroughly tested the glazes, just never done a load of just the new glazes. Firing to a top temp of 2225. Using a cone 6 red clay, same as usual. The problem, the studio smells, really strongly. It is a normal firing smell as in my previous place I fired in an
  19. Hi everyone, I am a new middle school art teacher and am interested in having my kids work with clay. I throw and handbuild but have never fired a kiln myself before. I've only loaded/unloaded them. The art room that I inherited in August has a Skutt electric kiln and its model is KS 1027. My predecessor left me a note prior to the start of school saying: "The kiln works fine but during construction a few years ago there was some damage on the side that resulted in a lost knob. I just use one of the other knobs to turn the kiln up or down. It is a makeshift way of doing it but it works
  20. I use nichrome wire hooks to hang decorations no larger than half the size of the palm of your hand and no thicker than 5mm, though often a lot smaller and a lot thinner. I've been using hooks as the decorations are fairly heavy and so I use thick bead rods - too thick to thread directly through the holes made in the clay. (If anybody could suggest a better method I'm open to making my life easier, bending 100 pieces of wire and hanging takes a lifetime!) The wire itself is sturdy and doesn't slump, however I use a white stoneware body, decorated and transparently glazed. After a stoneware gla
  21. My firing buddy. Steve, just came back from holiday in the states. He purchased one advancer kiln shelf for $300.00 Canadian from Minnesota clay. We would like to purchase about 20 more but can't afford this exorbitant cost. Where do you buy your shelves? Can we go directly to the manufacturer. There is a rumour that these shelves come from India. I have no idea where to get a cheap price. Thanks.
  22. I recently paid off my student loans and bought a house so I decided to dig my ceramic equipment out of storage where it has been for the last 15 years. While doing schooling and an internship in ceramics I bought a second hand little Amaco Gas Kiln Model # AG40 Serial# 192 . I loved this kiln because we did many raku firings with it at the pottery and I would love to repair it and fire it up again now that I have space. The issue is that I can not find any information on the kiln and I am also in the process of cleaning up and repairing the burner. I was wondering if any here heard of this
  23. I was loading a kiln load up today, glazing as I went, loading each piece as I usually do into the kiln when finished with it. I set of my pre waxed taller pieces aside, working on the patens(plates). I go through a series of dip glazes, sprayed and poured glazes, and some atomized on stains. I then finish the foot ring by using a damp sponge on the foot rings of the patens while on the griffin grip. Chalices are done much the same, in batches of 2 or 4 to match patens. I placed the lid on the kiln(mine is not hinged, but has two handles) leaving a little space up top for early venting. I als
  24. I'd like to paint the bottom of my pieces as I don't care for the bare clay look. however I'm firing to cone 5 so I cant use stilts. I've been using Amaco Velvet underglaze which works somewhat but I still get some kiln wash on the piece. any suggestions???
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