Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'Firing'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Ceramic Arts Daily Forums
    • Forum FAQ & Terms of Use
    • Studio Operations and Making Work
    • Clay and Glaze Chemistry
    • Equipment Use and Repair
    • Business, Marketing, and Accounting
    • Educational Approaches and Resources
    • Aesthetic Approaches and Philosophy
    • Int'l Ceramic Artists Network (ICAN) Operations and Benefits
    • Ceramic Events of Interest
    • Community Marketplace – Buy/Sell/Trade/Free

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

  1. Will be firing a bisque fire of porcelain ware Mugs without handles What is the best way to fire ( thinking of warpage ) Should the rims be facing up or down Wondering if it makes a difference Thank you Nicky
  2. Hello everyone, I am writing this post due to hope of meeting with someone who may help me to build a downdraft gas fired kiln. I have the book of Frederick Olsen's Kiln Book and in my opinion it has enough information to design a kiln but it may take a lot of time when I start doing that. I only start making ceramics and will be very appreciated ıf I can find someone to give me a hand.. That's why I just want to ask people on here and maybe somebody would like to share a kiln plan (preferentially 1m3) which had been tested before. Thank you in advance!
  3. Hi everyone, I have recently got an Uhlig U 500T kiln. I have never fired anything before and it gives me a really hard time to understand how to operate this one particularly, because there seems to be no resource or manual on the internet (the only thing that came with it is in German and kind of explaining how to use the controller tho). As far as I understood the slowest possible heating is to 500C in 5 hours. My pieces are quite thin and dry so I am hoping this is fine. Still, I am wondering is it really possible that this is the slowest option? My plan is for bisque
  4. Hi, After only ever doing low-firings, I attempted my first high firing yesterday but my kiln simply refused to go higher than 1165 celsius. It was very frustrating as I had spent quite a lot on stoneware clay and glazes. What are the reasons why my kiln wouldn't reach the temperature that I'd set? I noticed that the temperature rise slowed down significantly after it reached 1140 celsius and for the last half hour it didn't move from 1165. Now, I'm guessing, I'm left with bowls that aren't food safe. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you.
  5. Hello everyone I've searched through the forum but didn't find the answer to my question: If I want to make handbuild plates (so they wouldn't have any foot) and then want to glaze them top and bottom, can I use any kind of stilt to prevent the plate from wrapping? The plates would be made with stoneware fired between cone 8 and 10. I red about plate setters but that means the plate can't be glazed underneath, right? Is there any way to support the plate even though it's glazed? I know for low fire we can use metallic stilts but I wonder if they would wrap at such high temperatures. A
  6. Hello! New to the ceramic world and I am very interested in delving into Porcelain (cone 6) clay. I'm interested in designing very contemporary and minimal jewelry, however I understand that porcelain shrinks significantly during the firing process. My question is: how would I go about firing Specifically rings? are there certain metal rods that I could use in the kiln, similar to a bead rack that can keep the ring smooth and even during the process and POSSIBLY true to the size once finished? I've seen many of these beautiful rings online and I'm very unsure how to fire them. Also, is
  7. About 10 years ago, I took several ceramic classes and fell in love with the way Strontium Crystal Magic worked with other glazes. I attached a picture of Strontium Crystal Magic Warm with a spray of Water Color Green that I made in a community college class. Fast forward 10 years and I cannot get anything close to those results. The second picture shows the same glazes with a kiln controller set to a standard medium speed firing schedule to cone 5 with a 12 minute hold time. There are tons of nasty little pin-holes, and although I don't mind the color, it is nothing like I was expec
  8. Hello, I'm firing a cone 4 vitrified slip cast body which looks lovely but seems to slump particularly with the larger pieces. I'm going to try firing at a lower temperature but thought I would ask on the forum to see if anyone had any other suggestions. I'm using a fairly large electric kiln which I recently purchased. I also will try taking out the lower plug on the kiln as I heard that helps keep the temperature more even. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks! Harriet
  9. Ugh, just UGH! I had a huge load to fire for a very important community project. Using a Cone 4-6 stoneware and Cone 4-6 glaze. Normally I fire to cone 5 and let it soak for 5 minutes. The kiln was almost to temp when I left for work this morning. (yes, I know, never leave a kiln, but I couldn't be late to work and the basement is all concrete and it was supposedly almost done) It should have been cool and ready to unload when I got home. instead, at the top of the stairs, I heard it. "cu-lick" "Rats. I thought to myself, I must have a rat in the basement, I would LOVE to have a
  10. Is it necessary to fire to sculpture to vitrification? If firing to cone4, will the sculpture be too fragile? I don't always glaze my items and detail with acrylic paints and don't want to take short cuts in firing to save money, if the pieces should be vitrified.
  11. HI all, I've referred to this forum many times in the last few months, so thank you all for sharing your knowledge with the world. I just touched clay for the first time in August. After a short class, I fell in love with slab building and geometric shapes. In my class, we only used cone 10 clay, SOOO, when I left class and started playing with clay at home, I got Cone 10 clay. Now that I have LOTS of pieces to fire, I'm calling around to studios and art centers to find they they all fire greenware to bisqueware at 04. Can my Laguna cone 10 clay greenware be used for potted plants, vases
  12. Min asked recently in the QotW pool: Kiln stuffers, what does everybody make to fill those little empty spaces in the kiln? Hmm, Min I should have open spaces in my kiln? Naw, just joshing! For over 35 years of loading my HS classroom kiln I had to use every spot of space in the kiln whether loading bisque or glaze. Most of the time we had a pile of sculptural handbuilt projects, and one would set on the shelf, one would be on a brick right next to the first with the overlaps saving space. Thrown bowls were put in right side up, upside down, with things underneath or inside. Mugs were c
  13. I have just finished a sculpture out of what the package describes as "natural clay". The brand name is "craft smart" out of Texas. The piece has dried in air for over a week, and is what I would call "green" (if I remember correctly from high school art). I want to create a silicone mold of the original to create a series of reproductions, but I'm worried about the original surviving the process,as there are some thin sections. Would low temp firing, say in my oven, strengthen the clay, or am I at risk of blowing this up?
  14. Disclaimers : 1) This is more of a theoretical question. 2) I am not a potter/ceramic person of any sort. 3) all my knowledge of pottery, tile making come from youtube videos and internet. 4) actually my question has more to do with making TerraCotta (or any other low fire, easily available clay - not the high quality, high temp porcelain etc.) articles like tiles, pipes etc. Short Version: If for some reason you have to shut off the kiln halfway during firing (when the pieces are at around 1080F/600C), let them all cool down and restart firing again and go all the way till bisque/glaze t
  15. I have a Skutt KM822 I have been firing since I bought it new in March 2013. I fire to cone 6 in it. Lately I have noticed a change in when the relays "click." Let me preface by saying the firing I did last week I got error code 1. Kiln stalled out at 2177. I fire to 2210 with a 10 min hold. It was a very hot day when I did this firing, was mid afternoon when the error code 1 came on. I have multiple fans going to move air around in my kiln shed. I did diagnostic test and for amp, voltage. All OK. I also did a test fire of the kiln to 1100 with a 30 min hold and checked every peepho
  16. Being a less-than-tall person, I bought an L&L 18" deep kiln - I couldn't reach the bottom of the 27â€ers. Kiln works great, tho I have to add degrees to the cone offset for 04 bisquing, and remove some from cone 6, ( according to my witness cones). Actually right now I’m using the cone 5 setting and that seems to get my 6 cone to the right spot. My e28s has 4 elements and 2 thermocouples, and this creates some challenges. I get even responses from my witness cones only if I fire with only 2 shelves. With 3 shelves in, the witness cones vary widely. I’ve tried eve
  17. I'm working with B3Brown (Laguna) and I really like the color and surface texture when it is fired (C5). BUT stoneware glazes I use are bubbly/pin holed and dull - not matte but dull in color and surface. Lower fire glazes are fine if I refire at 05. I'm planning to bisque, fire to maturity, and then glaze fire at lowfire range. My question is, can I skip the bisque firing and fire greenware to cone 5, glaze, and fire to cone 05? Would that be too much shock for the greenware? I will test as needed but thought someone might know. Thanks!
  18. Hi everyone, What will happen to bisque work that has fired too hot for too long? I fired a bisque on Thursday night, and realized on Tuesday morning when I checked it that it was still at 1234 degrees and not cooling. It said "Complete". I hit stop, and it didn't begin cooling (although said Idle), so I turned off the circuit breaker. I have a kiln electrician coming out to check on the kiln, but my biggest concern is the work inside (not my work, but student work). I assume it's ruined?
  19. Hey y'all, I've been lurking for awhile but haven't done much posting yet. I was curious about flashing slips. I have a converted gas kiln (which works very well and I got a lot of really good info from another thread in this forum -- thanks!) and am still relatively new at mixing glazes. (Slowly) Developing practical understanding! I really love the look of flashing slips and would love to incorporate them into my work. Though, being that this kiln was converted from electric and is made up of soft insulating brick, I'm a little concerned that atmospheric firings will flux down the b
  20. Hi everyone! I am am new to ceramics after moving to it from metal clay. Things are going well but there is one constant error. I have a small jewellery kiln and it fires to the correct temp and the ceramic and glaze is working fine APART from where the object touches the kiln shelf on a glaze fire. I make pendants and rings mostly and it is so upsetting to have the items ruined or stuck to the shelf!! I use low fire stoneware clay and low fire glazes. So my question is what do I fire my pieces on. I have seen metal kiln furniture, is that the way forward? I am hoping you can help
  21. JamesP

    Firing

    From the album: Gas Kiln

    Turning on the gas
  22. As I search for my perfect clay, I see quite a few that have a very wide firing range. Is a pot that's fired to the low or middle range of that firing range less structurally sound than one fired to its highest end? Does it make a difference other than with the glaze fit? Does it matter in some other way? Or not? Are these ranges realistic? I've been using one with a 4-10 range and also another with a 6-9 range and firing to about cone 5 3/4. Glazes fit fine. But what's actually best for the structure and health and happiness of the pots? My pots are all quite young, but will they ag
  23. Hi, I'm wondering is anyone can offer any advise!! I loaded my kiln about 9pm last night, and after I switched it from low to medium to high, I went to bed like normal. Today around noon I went in to going unload my stuff from the night before and to my surprise my kiln was still running!!! I turned it off right away. After letting it cool a few hours I was able to peak in the top and my trees looked like this!! They are glazed exactly the same as the other tree in the other picture though. I am wondering if maybe my kiln didn't reach temp. it should have which is why it didn't shut off and th
  24. Hi, and best holiday wishes and a Merry Christmas to all~ I have a 55Gallon barrel drum Raku kiln, but even with two 300000btu brush torches I cant get past 1600F, and my Amaco Glaze matures at cone five, 1895-1900. Is there a burner that can get me to cone 05, or do I search for lower fie glazes? I've really been trying what I can dream up, but just cant hit that temp. Any Insights would be very helpful. Thanks! I have a 4" port, and a 6" exhaust. I have one layer of kiln blanket, and the 3" barrel bung open for exhaust.
  25. Hey all! First time posting here. I'm new to firing, and i've been having some difficulties getting my kiln to fire to cone 6 properly. Here's my problem: When I check the cones at peak temperature (2180 in my case), the cones are not bent properly yet. Last night I just let it cycle down anyway. However, when I opened my kiln at the end of firing, the cones were overfired (at least at the top of my kiln). I've been slow cooling, so is it possible that the heatwork as the kiln fires down is actually causing the cones to bend further even at lower temps? Firing Schedule: 220/6
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.