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Found 21 results

  1. Hi, all. This seems like a silly question but I can't seem to find an answer anywhere. I have just completed the first test firing of my new Skutt kiln, which was great. At the end, the kilnmaster display told me the firing time, the temperature inside - all good. I pressed "stop," and now the display is cycling between "Idle" and the inside temperature. What next? How do I turn the kiln fully off until I use it next? Is there some sort of "sleep mode" so the display doesn't continue flashing a display 24 hours a day? Should I unplug it (I expect to use it somewhere between once a week a
  2. Hi all, We’re seeking a company (or individual) on Long Island or NY Metro area that can fire some branded decals onto already made ceramic baking dishes. From what I understand, this type of precise firing will require a computerized electric kiln. Is there such a company that rents space in a kiln like that? Or a person that could do it? All suggestions welcome. Thanks in advance!
  3. Hello all, I'm looking at purchasing a used Cress FX-23 P electric kiln and wondering if anyone has experience with this model? It's just shy of $500 which seems a fair price(?). I'm planning to use it primarily as a bisque kiln, perhaps with a few ^6 fires thrown in for fun. It seems like a sound buy from a company that is still active but if anyone has experiences (good or bad) I'm all ears. Also if anyone can spot check me on this: I had a 240v outlet installed sometime ago for an electric dryer and I'm thinking we can re-purpose that for the kiln (it's asking for 220v and 25amps on th
  4. I have been having a strange issue with my Cone 6 Black Stoneware Clay from Standard (266). It gets these big cracking bubbles upon glaze firing. I bought this clay to marble with Porcelain (Standard 365) because it had a similar shrink rate. The marbled pieces came out SUPER bubbly, really horrible. I thought it was just poor clay preparation on my part because of the mixing of the two. However it has been happening with pots I make solely out of the Black Stoneware. I prepare this clay the same way I do all my other clay bodies and never really have this issue otherwise. Has anyone else had
  5. Hi everyone, Thanks in advance for your help! I am having some issues with a cress kiln FX 27-P. I am new to operating a kiln and have only successfully fired 1x to cone 04. I had no issues with the timer, kiln sitter, thumbwheel (rotated to different numbers throughout firing), and maintained power to the kiln for entire firing. I read the entire manual and follow instructions on kiln when programming settings. In my second firing- set kiln to 12 hour timer, cone 6 bar in kiln sitter, set it on slowest firing setting. Walked away from the kiln for maybe 2 hours- when I walk
  6. I just bit the bullet and bought some Advancer shelves. I fire a 7ct L &L in an outside shed. Its about 30 outside and I'm concerned about when I can open the kiln. I am in the Christmas crowd when it comes to opening. I try to fire early in the morning so it will fire all day when I'm around and then cool all night & I have no choice but to go to bed. Anyway Advancers are subject to cracking with uneven heating or cooling, but ALL of the references to this come from folks use large gas kilns, you know with dampers and such. Anyone here use Advancers in the electric and how do you ha
  7. My rutile blue glaze (Mastering Cone 6, Glossy Base 1, Variegated Blue) hasn't been variegated since I made the switch from an ancient Econo-kiln to an Easy-Fire. Using records from old firings to program and reprogram the new kiln, I've clearly failed at matching the heat work I achieved with the old Low, Medium, and High settings on my old kiln. Glaze appears grayish and even instead of bright and variegated. I assume the difference is that my old kiln with its small elements was relying more on time than on temperature to get cone 6 down. I'd appreciate any advice for testing that theor
  8. I have been having an issue with the bottoms of my pots getting big chips out of them during a glaze firing. The chipped parts are not really stuck the the kiln shelf, they brush off easily, so I don't think it's a glazing issue. Normally I dip glaze pots with clear and wipe off the bottom with a sponge. I wonder if a little residual glaze is still there and sticking? This is happening with my cone 6 porcelain (standard 365) and a black stoneware clay. Both have a high shrink rate. I do use kiln wash. Do I need to apply kiln wash for every firing? It seems like that must be the issue
  9. The facility in which I am working is currently awaiting the prolonged install of a replacement gas reduction kiln. In the meantime they have been firing cone 10 oxidation in a Paragon Viking 28, single phase, with a max temp of 2350F. It is hard wired to what I've been told is the appropriate amperage. When I was brought on board the kiln was failing to reach cone 10 and giving the FTL (Fired Too Long) code. At that juncture when we opened up the switch box the top segment of elements were slightly brown, we tightened the brass bits and the pigtails, all the elements were testing okay, a
  10. Hello! This may be a question that's a little silly, but I can't seem to find the answer anywhere. I've taken a liking to brushing on glazes on a banding wheel, as I've used earthenware clay/glazes for the majority of my time making pottery, and just recently decided to try a few different clay bodies and still intend to use brush-ons as much as I can. My question comes from the level of difficulty brushing 3 coats onto Cone 6 stoneware or porcelain (that has been fired and matured to Cone 6) brings, as It's not porous and takes a while for each coat to fully dry. As I've been looking at som
  11. Hello all, after a few months of lurking and dreaming about getting started, I've gotten to the point where I can finally make some things. Got the kiln wired in and it's all looking very clean and crisp - my question is, has anyone ever used commercially produced tiles as wadding? I want to keep those kiln shelves in tip top order and I am hoping to fire a bunch of flat Christmas decorations, much like the one in my avatar. They are made from stoneware, because that's what I have to hand (hoping to progress to functional ware) and will fire to cone 9 i believe. I have some commercially pr
  12. From the album: Favorites

    Wheel thrown and hand carved. The bottom features a leaf design created by using paper leaves as a resist to the underglaze. Sgraffito designs were added along with a pulled handle and spiral embellishments. Fired to cone 6 in an electric kiln.
  13. From the album: Favorites

    Wheel thrown vase with geometric carved design and rainbow pattern in underglaze. Commercial glazes, fired to cone 6 in an electric kiln.
  14. From the album: Favorites

    wheel thrown bowl covered in underglaze. I used paper butterfly's to resist the white underglaze and create the butterfly design. I then carved a geometric pattern on the inside and outside of the bowl. It's finished in a commercial clear glaze and fired to cone 6 in an electric kiln.
  15. From the album: Favorites

    Wheel thrown vase with underglaze and sgraffito geometric design. Hand textured and fired in an electric kiln to cone 6.
  16. I have a question on "holding" time with an electric kiln. One of the glazes I use fires matte at cone 5 and glossy at cone 6. I would like something just slightly more cone 5. If I set the kiln for cone 5 and set it hold for an hour at the peak temperature, will I get a slight temperature increase? hold it for more? less?
  17. So... I've just fired my Nabertherm electric kiln (pre-loved) for the first time, for a bisque firing. I put two cone packs in - one on the bottom shelf, one near the top, with 04, 05, 06 large cones. The program was 100oC per hour to 600oC then 250oC per hour to 1000oC. I don't regularly use cones, but thought it was a good opportunity to see what the new kiln did and how the bisque firing temperature related to the Orton Cones. I've attached a photo of one of the cones packs - there was very little difference in them. Does this look as you'd expect? I'm surprised that there's such a big d
  18. Hi, I have a couple of questions if someone would be so kind. I've recently purchased a Paragon Caldera XL Kiln and I have a porcelain sculpture - tall, standing figure - that I'd like to fire. I used a wood kabob stick to keep the sculpt sanding when I made it and it is not coming out without a lot of work. I remember reading that some things can burn off in a kiln, will this? Will that cause any damage to the kiln or sculpture? And what, if any, material can I use that will burn off safely in a kiln?. I have also seen some posts about slumping and the need to support porcelain
  19. Help! I make slab rolled coloured porcelain forms, with uneven thicknesses. Perhaps because of this, there are a few splits which appear after the (only) firing. Cone 6, 7. Would controlling and perhaps slowing down the heating and cooling process help diminish the chance of this splitting?
  20. I am new to this forum. I'm a little intimidated because I am not currently throwing my own pottery, but work with bisque and detailed glazing, and I am also using commercial glazes (Duncan). I am probably more of painter than a potter, by discipline. Hopefully I'm not too out of place here. I recently purchased an Olympic electric kiln. I have only fired it once so far, and wanted to ask advice about my results... I have never managed my own kiln, only working in studios where that part is taken care of by the studio. I filled the kiln with all of the furniture that I had to take
  21. I am in the midst of trying to decide on a small electric kiln. It must be around 4 cu feet, fire to cone 10 and have an auto programmer. I'm in Far North Queensland, Australia. I would really appreciate any advise. Am looking at L & L Top loading, Shimpo DUA07 and Woodrow Hotbox II.
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