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SunsetBay

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  1. SunsetBay
    Thanks! I'd love to know why you made the changes you made, and if you have any photos.
  2. SunsetBay
    I'm not sure why the bentonite is there. I think these are the versions of these glazes from John Britt's Cone ^6 glaze book. Pretty much all his glazes add bentonite. These two glazes are originally from Roy & Hesselberth's Mastering Cone 6 Glazes, and I can't recall if they included bentonite. I have to say that both these glazes tend to settle and gel really quickly. They need to be mixed a lot before glazing, and often again between individual pieces. In case you're curious, here are the recipes: Variegated Slate Blue Neph Sy 4% Silica 17% EPK 30% Wollastonite 29% Frit 3195 20% Total base: 100% Add: Cobalt Carbonite 1.5% Copper Carbonite 3% Rutile 6% Bentonite 2% Spearmint Neph Sy 4% Silica 17% EPK 28% Wollastonite 28% Frit 3195 23% Total base: 100% Add: Copper Carbonate 4% Rutile 6% Bentonite 2%
  3. SunsetBay
    Spearmint: 28% EPK, no ball clay, 2% bentonite Variegated Slate Blue: 30% EPK, no ball clay, 2% bentonite
  4. SunsetBay
    I'm kind of guessing that, because it's happened before. I'm wondering if I should use a bit of Darvan or sodium silicate to adjust the viscosity slightly without changing the specific gravity, and also do a faster dip.
  5. SunsetBay
    I don't know how I missed this reply, Neil. I'm just found it now. Honestly, though, I'm not sure what to do with it. It sounds to me like what I should do is try the schedule you outlined in one of your earlier replies. I did just fire the kiln with the Mastering Cone 6 Glazes recommended schedule, and the pieces that used the spearmint and variegated slate blue glazes crawled a fair amount. I did prefer the slight flattening (or "mattening" !!!) of the surface, but I'll now have to refire them to correct for the crawling. Problem is, I'm not sure what caused the crawling: Dips too long, or something about the firing schedule. Any insight would be welcome. I hope to refire in the next few days. (Since I liked the results in my test kiln, maybe I'll just stick a few mugs in there and try refiring them that way, but I'd really like to get a handle on this with my large kiln.) Thanks.
  6. SunsetBay
    That is all super helpful, Neil, thanks. I do understand the difference between controlled cooling and slow cooling. But between trying to figure out which slow-cool program to try and how to get the two kilns to match it as closely as possible, I was getting confused. My schedule (and my impatience) made me get the little kiln going before I saw your message. I decided to use the schedule suggested by the authors of the glaze recipes. It calls for a drop from peak temp of 500 degrees/hr to 1900 degrees, and then another drop of 125 degrees/hr to 1400 degrees. If I'm not satisfied with how the glazes look with that program, I'll try yours. Thanks again for your help and detailed explanations.
  7. SunsetBay
    My E23 cools fairly slowly due to the 3" bricks, but I'm trying to get some semi-matte glazes to look more matte. I've succeeded in the past, but more by accident, so I don't really know what I did to make them work like that. I've used both the pre-programmed slow ^6 and the slow ^5 (with various holds), but those glazes are still coming out glossy. Since these are Mastering Cone 6 Glazes recipes (spearmint and variegated slate blue), I thought I should try Ron Roy and John Hesselberth's suggested firing schedule, but I've been concerned that if I just program that into the Bartlett controller on my test kiln, it won't match the results with the same program on my E23. I'm now thinking that maybe I should just try the test firing with the MC6G schedule and see how the results differ from what I've been doing in my big kiln and go from there. Thanks again for your help. I wish this stuff didn't make my head spin.
  8. SunsetBay
    Shouldn't the goal temps in the small kiln's slow-cool cycle match the temps of the big kiln's slow-cool cycle?
  9. SunsetBay
    I figured I'd have to use the same slow cool for both, but I feel like I remembered reading somewhere that because of the differences in the kiln, I'd have to tweak the program for the smaller one in some way to end up with similar results.
  10. SunsetBay
    My regular kiln is an L&L E23T-3. My new test kiln is an L&L DLH11-DX. I haven't used it yet, but I'm almost ready to try firing a bunch of test tiles. Is there anything I should do in terms of programming the small kiln in order to get as close as possible to what I might expect from firing the large kiln?
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