Terri98

Thank Callie. Very helpful info. What type of bacterial growth inhibitor might I use? I had heard that it can be rolled out and dried and re-wetted and it bounces back to life. That sounds so crazy to me. Can not imagine that with traditional clay.

Yes, the two Pandas are bisque-ware to cone 04. My pieces are normally thick. Hand built. I would have to say most of my sculptures do not have consistent thickness in the walls. I am aware it would be nice if that were possible. Usually not a problem with the way I let them dry very very slowly and do a very slow bisque fire. Than I Raku. This is a special blend clay. It has Kyanite. Not sure it has enough grog. I am hoping the clay maker made notes, so I can learn what he put together and what I might need to do to make the clay more user friendly. Whatever I do, I will have to knead it into the clay. In this case the thickness is part of the issue. On these two pieces I hollowed out from the bottom. I may have cut off and added back certain parts. When I do that the slip I use is the same as the clay with vinegar added. Could have skewered hind legs from the inside. But I did not. I think I did hear or read about "SPOOZE" regarding repairs. And also the need to re-bisque. When I think of deflocculated slip, it is something that is used to pour molds, so I would not think it would work with what I do. I don't think I have heard of Magic Water. I will have to look that up too. My primary question, is how do I repair the cracks and save the Pandas. I am hoping to find a repair solution using ceramic paper clay. I hear people talk about this and want to learn more. Do I need to change how I ask my question? Thanks Terri

I generally Raku my animal sculptures. My last batch of clay is giving me some challenges with cracking. I have several, some bisque ware that presented with cracks and some greenware. My clay has Kyanite but I am not sure it has enough grog. It is a special blend. Unfortunately it is presenting problems. I have heard that paper clay can be used to fill cracks and than I re-fire. The clay I am currently using is not a paper clay. I would still like to Raku if possible. Thanks Terri

I apologize. My first post, I realize looks like I am sharing info. I wish I was. That would mean I knew about it. I work with a stoneware clay body for Raku. I use a cone 10 body and sometimes a cone 5 body. I add kyanite and grog. Generally, I am hand building as opposed to slab building. I like what I read about paper clay. I see people dipping, pouring. slab building but not sure if it fits my approach. I also like to use texture, and sometimes fine detail. I like that paper adds strength. What about plasticity? I like that it can be used to patch cracks and possibly help mend breaks even on bisque ware. Really? If I had a paper clay made from the same clay I Raku with would it be possible to use that on green ware cracks prior to firing? After first firing? That alone would make it very interesting. If both clay bodies share a parent body could I mix the two? Knead them together? Is there a paper clay designed for raku? I was reading some of the articles with Jerry Bennett, he mentioned a fiber called kenaf. In an article, http://jerrybennett.net/paper-clay-information that is sometimes used with Raku. It sounds like some of the commercial clays include kenaf for sculpting and Raku. Took me a bit to find the article again. Good article. I do not use porcelain but he does. Good info. Very intrigued just not sure how to approach it. I can see how it would be beneficial for wall pieces. Less weight. I would appreciate feedback and insight on what might be possible. Thanks Terri

I work with a stoneware body for Raku. I use a cone 10 body and sometimes a cone 5 body. I add kyanite and grog. Generally, I am hand building as opposed to slab building. I like what I read about paper clay. I see people dipping, pouring. slab building but not sure if it fits my approach. I also like to use texture, and sometimes fine detail. I like that paper adds strength. What about plasticity? I like that it can be used to patch cracks and possibly help mend breaks even on bisque ware. Really? If I had a paper clay made from the same clay I raku with would it be possible to use that on green ware cracks prior to firing? After first firing? That alone would make it very interesting. If both clay bodies share a parent body could I mix the two? Knead them together? Is there a paper clay designed for raku? I was reading some of the articles with Jerry Bennett, he mentioned a fiber that is sometimes used with Raku, can not quiet remember what he called it. I looked it up online might be in the hemp family. Not sure. Very intrigued just not sure how to approach it. I can see how it would be beneficial for wall pieces. Less weight. I would appreciate feedback and insight on what might be possible. Thanks Terri