grackle

Mosaics, and I just realized I should be glazing and firing scraps of slabs with all my colors to use in mosaics, duh..  Kayaking, especially on rivers, we love the Rio Grande and other Texas rivers.  Have also spent a good many fall weeks on Lake Powell in Kayaks, and the San Juan river, plus the Missouri River in Montana.  Which is to say, we love to travel, especially in the west, getting off road and into the back country.  My husband works in wood, and I help him design boxes and clocks.  The clocks are my favorites.
Now that spring is in sight, I am starting seeds and even planting some things, .like swiss chard and lettuce and other greens.

Thank everyone, this is a great group!  Just unloaded the kiln with the 5 minute hold, and all looks good.  I was a little worried it might get a bit hot, but seems fine.  I watched the temp right at the end, and it went from 2167F to 2171F, 
I am firing electric to cone 5, but honestly, the witness things would indicate more of a 5.5 or 6.  My first firing with this kiln was a cone 6, and i really felt that it was too hot (colors washed out, etc), so switched to cone 5 with much better results.  I do not see any pitting in this batch.  Tried some different things with stains and clear glaze on white that look good (photo).  Adding a photo of the 4 "horny toads" also known as Texas Horned Lizards.  3 different glazes--slate blue, sage, and  jade.  The jade (most green), is a glaze from my college days, and it has barium carbonate in the mix, so i only use it on non food items.
Giving a good deal of thought to the hold on bisque firing.  I have a black clay that i love, but it is SO messy (turns my hands orange), and tends to blister, but MAYBE if more of the iron or whatever was burned out in the bisque......  I have also experimented with using it as a slip over red clay, and I like some of the results, and will do more with that.
All that said.  I have an L and L kiln with the auto vent system--how do it l Iower the temp for a bisque hold?  I am still learning the menu and I thought I could only HOLD at the final firing temp?

Thank everyone, this is a great group!  Just unloaded the kiln with the 5 minute hold, and all looks good.  I was a little worried it might get a bit hot, but seems fine.  I watched the temp right at the end, and it went from 2167F to 2171F, 
I am firing electric to cone 5, but honestly, the witness things would indicate more of a 5.5 or 6.  My first firing with this kiln was a cone 6, and i really felt that it was too hot (colors washed out, etc), so switched to cone 5 with much better results.  I do not see any pitting in this batch.  Tried some different things with stains and clear glaze on white that look good (photo).  Adding a photo of the 4 "horny toads" also known as Texas Horned Lizards.  3 different glazes--slate blue, sage, and  jade.  The jade (most green), is a glaze from my college days, and it has barium carbonate in the mix, so i only use it on non food items.
Giving a good deal of thought to the hold on bisque firing.  I have a black clay that i love, but it is SO messy (turns my hands orange), and tends to blister, but MAYBE if more of the iron or whatever was burned out in the bisque......  I have also experimented with using it as a slip over red clay, and I like some of the results, and will do more with that.
All that said.  I have an L and L kiln with the auto vent system--how do it l Iower the temp for a bisque hold?  I am still learning the menu and I thought I could only HOLD at the final firing temp?

Thank everyone, this is a great group!  Just unloaded the kiln with the 5 minute hold, and all looks good.  I was a little worried it might get a bit hot, but seems fine.  I watched the temp right at the end, and it went from 2167F to 2171F, 
I am firing electric to cone 5, but honestly, the witness things would indicate more of a 5.5 or 6.  My first firing with this kiln was a cone 6, and i really felt that it was too hot (colors washed out, etc), so switched to cone 5 with much better results.  I do not see any pitting in this batch.  Tried some different things with stains and clear glaze on white that look good (photo).  Adding a photo of the 4 "horny toads" also known as Texas Horned Lizards.  3 different glazes--slate blue, sage, and  jade.  The jade (most green), is a glaze from my college days, and it has barium carbonate in the mix, so i only use it on non food items.
Giving a good deal of thought to the hold on bisque firing.  I have a black clay that i love, but it is SO messy (turns my hands orange), and tends to blister, but MAYBE if more of the iron or whatever was burned out in the bisque......  I have also experimented with using it as a slip over red clay, and I like some of the results, and will do more with that.
All that said.  I have an L and L kiln with the auto vent system--how do it l Iower the temp for a bisque hold?  I am still learning the menu and I thought I could only HOLD at the final firing temp?

Glaze the foot ring, and then sit the centre, unlgazed part of the pot on a kiln post to raise it off the shelf.

I learning to throw in college sitting down.  When I got my own wheel, and had a little back pain, I thought, hmmm, maybe i could do this standing up.  We had a sturdy little table built with 2 x 4's and 2" lumber on top, and we set the wheel up on it, and I never looked back.  I did experiment a bit with standing a bit higher, and ended up standing about 1.5" higher on some 2 x 12's stuck together side by side.
I have a different wheel now, a Pacifica, and I bought the leg extensions, so can change the height if needed,  I am okay standing most of the day at this point, but I do not throw pots all day and am moving around quite a bit doing other things as well.  

I learning to throw in college sitting down.  When I got my own wheel, and had a little back pain, I thought, hmmm, maybe i could do this standing up.  We had a sturdy little table built with 2 x 4's and 2" lumber on top, and we set the wheel up on it, and I never looked back.  I did experiment a bit with standing a bit higher, and ended up standing about 1.5" higher on some 2 x 12's stuck together side by side.
I have a different wheel now, a Pacifica, and I bought the leg extensions, so can change the height if needed,  I am okay standing most of the day at this point, but I do not throw pots all day and am moving around quite a bit doing other things as well.  

I learning to throw in college sitting down.  When I got my own wheel, and had a little back pain, I thought, hmmm, maybe i could do this standing up.  We had a sturdy little table built with 2 x 4's and 2" lumber on top, and we set the wheel up on it, and I never looked back.  I did experiment a bit with standing a bit higher, and ended up standing about 1.5" higher on some 2 x 12's stuck together side by side.
I have a different wheel now, a Pacifica, and I bought the leg extensions, so can change the height if needed,  I am okay standing most of the day at this point, but I do not throw pots all day and am moving around quite a bit doing other things as well.  

I also use the floor puzzle foam mat,  my pathway is a big rectangular in my studio.   If I have a area that gets extremely dusty and dirty I will pull  them up to clean.   If one particular area starts wearing thin I can easily replace them.  I  had a bedroom in the basement my son used as a hangout,  rowdy boys,  soda and carpet don't mix so I covered it with foam mat.   When we polished the concrete I moved them upstairs to my studio.  Now I have a lifetime supply.  I even stand on one in the kiln room when I am loading the kiln.   I don't leave it there when I am firing.  My husband is working on his wood shop and I found a  big heavy  duty  dense mat on clearance.  I think it will help his sore feet.   Denice

New and former Studios, cement slab flooring.
I'm wearing crepe sole mid-high work boots when it's cold, somewhat supportive flip flops (Sperry Top-Sider) when it's hot, slip-ons with groovy insoles when it's medium.
I work more sitting than standing. I get purple toe (Raynaud's) fairly easily, so keeping the feet happy is important for me. Wool socks, an extra layer at the ankle (cut off the feet part of worn socks, voila! ankle warmers), watch cap (warm head->warm hands and feet, try it), and insulated foot pedal all help.
Yep, the heavy cast alloy foot pedal draws off A LOT of heat! I've taped a layer of bubble wrap to the foot pedal, voila ii! right foot gets much less mad ever since.
I'm having pain in the L 4-5, a bit better yesterday, much better today.
Hope you are feeling better soon Min.

Cement floor in all areas I work in. I use a really good quality anti fatigue mat when standing on for throwing. I wear supportive  shoes with good insoles, think that helps. It's T-7 - T-9 that I'm getting a lot of pain with for the past few weeks.  

I have a plywood floor--inch thick tongue and groove.  my studio is an add on to an existing building, and we put some cement pillars in the ground and then built a 2 x 10 framework on top of those and then 2 x 6's (maybe 2 x 8's) and the plywood on top of that.  It was a little chilly right at first last winter, but we realized we needed to close off the opening around the pillars and once we did that, it has been quite toasty.  this is Texas after all, so it is not going to ever be frigid, unless we have another 2 week ice storm and the power goes off for 9 days.
It has been comfortable to stand on, and i do have a foam mat at the stand up wheel.  I like to think that I am keeping my 72 year old arms in some sort of shape with the wedging!!

I have a plywood floor--inch thick tongue and groove.  my studio is an add on to an existing building, and we put some cement pillars in the ground and then built a 2 x 10 framework on top of those and then 2 x 6's (maybe 2 x 8's) and the plywood on top of that.  It was a little chilly right at first last winter, but we realized we needed to close off the opening around the pillars and once we did that, it has been quite toasty.  this is Texas after all, so it is not going to ever be frigid, unless we have another 2 week ice storm and the power goes off for 9 days.
It has been comfortable to stand on, and i do have a foam mat at the stand up wheel.  I like to think that I am keeping my 72 year old arms in some sort of shape with the wedging!!

I have a plywood floor--inch thick tongue and groove.  my studio is an add on to an existing building, and we put some cement pillars in the ground and then built a 2 x 10 framework on top of those and then 2 x 6's (maybe 2 x 8's) and the plywood on top of that.  It was a little chilly right at first last winter, but we realized we needed to close off the opening around the pillars and once we did that, it has been quite toasty.  this is Texas after all, so it is not going to ever be frigid, unless we have another 2 week ice storm and the power goes off for 9 days.
It has been comfortable to stand on, and i do have a foam mat at the stand up wheel.  I like to think that I am keeping my 72 year old arms in some sort of shape with the wedging!!

I have a plywood floor--inch thick tongue and groove.  my studio is an add on to an existing building, and we put some cement pillars in the ground and then built a 2 x 10 framework on top of those and then 2 x 6's (maybe 2 x 8's) and the plywood on top of that.  It was a little chilly right at first last winter, but we realized we needed to close off the opening around the pillars and once we did that, it has been quite toasty.  this is Texas after all, so it is not going to ever be frigid, unless we have another 2 week ice storm and the power goes off for 9 days.
It has been comfortable to stand on, and i do have a foam mat at the stand up wheel.  I like to think that I am keeping my 72 year old arms in some sort of shape with the wedging!!

thank you!  found some at Baileys.

Thanks, Roberta:  I would love to have the recipe.   I always test any new glaze on my various clay first.  I got several of the recipes I used in college (many years ago) from the pottery dept there, but for some reason, they no longer had the white.  The college used the same clay I am using now, so it seemed logical.  I read something about  those dark iron rich clays needing more oxygen in the bisque fire to burn off more carbon and prevent bloating.  I have a downdraft kiln  which supposedly has enough oxygen, but do not know how to introduce more except by leaving peepholes open?.

Thanks, guys--have been away from the computer.  I am looking for a satin white, that will work on either my Cinco Roja clay or my Cinco Blanco clay from Armadillo Clay in austin, TX.  I also work with the Nara Porcelain from Aardvark (I think).  All cone 6 clays, but to be honest, I fire to Cone 5 because I have determined my L and L kiln fires a bit hot., based on repeated cone results.  I like to use stains with the white glaze.

hmmmm...since this is just a sample, i am inclined to try a different white.  not sure why it seems so hard to find  good whites???

Am guessing that most of you are selling your ware?  I sell a bit, but only the best, and there is always some non-best.  Still working out the glazes at this point--what can go over what, etc and not drip too much or even vacate the top of the cup altogether, eeek.  My husband put a sanding disc on a piece of wood, and i use that to smooth the bottoms of cups and bowls.  not perfect, but then I am not trying to make it all perfect.  I make some incense holders shaped like leaves for my sis in laws shop, and sometimes, the hole for the incense fills with glaze despite my best efforts, but we have a diamond drill bit that fixes that.  Same with the little mushroom incense holders.  Bowls don't seem to sell well, but the various coffee and tea cups do.  I am retired, so this is just a hobby.  Most of what I make goes to friends and family.  They are not too picky.

Am guessing that most of you are selling your ware?  I sell a bit, but only the best, and there is always some non-best.  Still working out the glazes at this point--what can go over what, etc and not drip too much or even vacate the top of the cup altogether, eeek.  My husband put a sanding disc on a piece of wood, and i use that to smooth the bottoms of cups and bowls.  not perfect, but then I am not trying to make it all perfect.  I make some incense holders shaped like leaves for my sis in laws shop, and sometimes, the hole for the incense fills with glaze despite my best efforts, but we have a diamond drill bit that fixes that.  Same with the little mushroom incense holders.  Bowls don't seem to sell well, but the various coffee and tea cups do.  I am retired, so this is just a hobby.  Most of what I make goes to friends and family.  They are not too picky.

Am guessing that most of you are selling your ware?  I sell a bit, but only the best, and there is always some non-best.  Still working out the glazes at this point--what can go over what, etc and not drip too much or even vacate the top of the cup altogether, eeek.  My husband put a sanding disc on a piece of wood, and i use that to smooth the bottoms of cups and bowls.  not perfect, but then I am not trying to make it all perfect.  I make some incense holders shaped like leaves for my sis in laws shop, and sometimes, the hole for the incense fills with glaze despite my best efforts, but we have a diamond drill bit that fixes that.  Same with the little mushroom incense holders.  Bowls don't seem to sell well, but the various coffee and tea cups do.  I am retired, so this is just a hobby.  Most of what I make goes to friends and family.  They are not too picky.

LED lighting might be worth a look - long lasting bulbs, high efficiency wins back the initial cost, and then more from there.
We used LED fluorescent tube look-alike replacements at the last house, particularly in the garage and Studio.
The round ones ("canless" recessed) that go into the ceiling are very reasonable now; we used them in our Son's bathroom remodels last summer. The light "temperature" is even adjustable! 
Our new house has them in the garage.
On the Studio side, I plan to chain in several more.

i quite like having my wheel in a separate space from the kiln, which is what i have now, mainly because the room gets too hot for 2 days when the kiln is running.  Damp box is close the wheel, and shelves for greenware, then bisque, then ready to glaze.  Did not always have this set up, used to be all one room, but now better with 2.
NOw if I could just master throwing big bowls without the 'amateur shoulder!"

ok, many many thanks.  restarted, and it went to segment 3 and my fingers are crossed.  thank you for getting back to me so quickly!!