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Everything posted by Gusf

  1. Hola Also check out archive.org , the internet archive. There are many many books that one is able to borrow digitally, which is great! For buying used books, checkout www.abebooks.com. The books are sold by independent sellers, both bookstores and individuals. Wanted to recommend this series called 'The Self-Reliant Potter', by Henrik Norsker, James Danish. it is available online through the Human Development Library 2.0 The titles in the series are: Glazes — for the Self-Reliant Potter ◆ Clay Materials--for the Self-Reliant Potter◆ Forming Techniques - for the Self-Reliant Potter◆ The Self-Reliant Potter: Refractories and Kilns ◆ Also this great big-small book called: 'Batch Manufacturing for Ceramics, Models and Molds From Process to Product' by Seth Nagelberg, a former great teacher and friend. 'Clay and Glazes for the Potter' by Daniel Rhodes 'Clay: A Studio Handbook' by Vince Pitelka The handouts of Vince Pitelka available on his website HERE 'Stoneware Glazes: A Systematic Approach' by Ian Currie Free online thanks to the author through a creative commons license The handouts of Linda Arbuckle available on her website HERE '21st Century Kilns: Design, Construction, Firing' by Mel Jacobson Free online thanks to the author 'Paperclay: Art and Practice' by Rosette Gault https://sites.google.com/site/meeneecat/ This is a great site by NC DuPont, checkout the section 'Educational Materials' The articles and books by Steve Harrison The Clay Art mailing list Archives Have fun!
  2. Hi there, Can one also use cotton that they sell at the drugstore in rolls, to make the pulp and then mix in with the clay slurry? They do not sell cotton linters as they sell in the US in the Dominican Republic. Would this be better than toilet paper? Many thanks, Gus
  3. @Bill KielbThank you so much. Importing it is no problem at all. I would actually would prefer to import the 2stage regulator and whatever else I need rather than mess with the burners, But if you believe it would be better for me to switch to high pressure system (as high pressure regulators are local) and / or order different orifices for these burners (slowly understanding) would do that and work with a smaller psi gauge, would do that. I have found a gauge in amazon that is 0-3 psi.. I want to read the pressure and control the flow in WC a per your explanation. or whatever is most efficient. Also the efficiency of the burners, if I need to have a different orifice also. If I need to import the gauge and that will help me be precise with the firing and my learning curve. Just want to know exactly the gauge and 2 step regulator, and anything else that I will need to fire correctly this small propane kiln with the two tanks connected. Also the gauges here that are mostly found in PSI I mean are for water pumps for buldings and the likes, 0-100psi , 0-250psi way way too much. I want to have a nice kiln that I can fire to cone 5-6 if I want to, learn how to gas fire efficiently from greenware to bisque to glaze, etc.. reduction, oxidation, learn how to work the damper, pressure, learn how the kiln breaths, firing logs, pyrometer and have a nice setup while not depending on electricity. I am investing in myself and make things easier for me moving forward. I am a visual artist and an educator and will be using it for sculptures, etc.. These are the regulators that you typically find here. Pages from local hardware stores. They look and feel really cheap. But I don't know that is just my feeling. https://ferremix.com.do/products?utf8=✓&keywords=regulador https://ochoa.com.do/buscar?departamento=0&param=regulador&page=1 'Alta Presion' means 'High Pressure' Thank you so much and will await your reply.
  4. Hi there and THANK YOU so much for your help, this has been very enlightening. I am still a bit confused as to what I need to buy for my setup, but will proceed to answer your questions. Sorry for the late reply. I have been busy visiting MANY hardware stores here in the country and I have not been able to find a second stage regulator. Just for context, propane gas is the MAIN fuel used in the country for urban, buildings and houses. There are even cars that run on propane here. It is very common. But no second stage regulators here. My brother is actually coming to visit from Maryland, US. I will ask him to bring the equipment that you recommend from there so that I can save in shipping and have quality equipment. The only one they sell here is very similar to this one (pic below) at my home, It has a lever to switch between tanks, it is a 1st stage (now I know): From your explanation I can have a 2-stage regulator installed at the tank, OR one 1st stage at the tanks (like below) and then a 2nd stage down the line and at the start of the galvanized 1/2'' pipe in the line but I don't know yet. I now understand what you explained so clearly that 28+ WC is equal to 1 psi. For the gauge I will need a T I imagine to put it in the line? is this correct? If I have two (2) tanks (25lb or 50lb), and two Venturi MR-750. The tanks will be roughly 20 feet from the kiln but in the same terrace / space. When you say "dial down" you mean, get the burners, their flame under control instead of having a too big of flame, is this correct? is it related to efficient combustion? Yes, is my thinking correct that I should be able to start with only one (1) burner? thats the reason I thought of putting a small valve on each burner located before the burner and before the gauge that I will be using. Is this correct? Even If I use them completely open most of the time, andI would only close one at the start? might there be a better way of doing this? I also have read in previous posts that it is important to move the gas around in the kiln, so I have found it as an advice to stalling. How do I know I will not exceed this? On the Axner website: https://www.axner.com/mr-750venturiburner.aspx for the burner it says that "The BTU values listed above can be increased with increases in pressure, however this burner may be subject to less efficiencies at pressures greater than 10 psi. The BTU they have listed at 10psi is 171,910 but It is rated at 77,400 BTUs operating on propane at 11" WC. Confused still. " BTW on their website they have a table for BTU/LP (#38 orifice) this is a mistake. I called Axner directly to ask for the orifice number (as I had already ordered one of the burners) and they confirmed by phone that the orifice is 0.07'' #50. I have read that these burners are not the best, but since I already had one for my small raku kiln I used in the past, my friend suggested that I order another one (which I did 3 weeks ago, have it here, from axner. The more expensive ones cost almost what the kiln is costing me . Just to be sure, what regulator do you recommend for my setup? Whatever you recommend I will buy, he will look for them in the states. Remember I want to be able to connect two (2) tanks of 25lp, or 50 lp to prevent freezing, this is called pigtail? or do I need to buy one with a lever to switch between tanks? Does the regulator need a gauge also in case I need to UP the pressure? and then the what gauge? that I know understand is related to the 2-stage regulator I use, which one would you recommend? I just want to be sure before I invest and order the parts I need so that my brother can bring everything over on the 15th of July I calculated the internal size of my kiln and apparently it is 4 CF. The polypropylene hose that I will have coming from the regulator (regulator connected to two (2) tanks) what diameter should it be? The galvanized steel pipe, connectors and everything, the person selling me the kiln recommends is 1/2''. Is this acceptable? Do you recommend a ball valve or a needle valve to control flow while firing as per my particular setup? The INSBLOK-19 is considerably more expensive here than Ceramic KAOWOOL. Since it is an octagon, the boards that they sell here are: 1.5'' x 12'' x 36''. It would take many boards to get it done. I have change the plan a bit because of economy for the additional outside insulation, to wrap the outside of IFB 2.5'' - 3'' with a roll of KAOWOOL and then put the stainless steel jacket on the outside, (learned this is a viable technique on this forum and on potters.org) without compressing the fiber too much (learned on this forum that that takes away from the insulating properties of the fiber) . Do i have to rigidize it with sodium silicate before (saw that online)? they do not sell rigidizer here, or can I put a bit of refractory cement over the ceramic fiber in order to protect it before I put the steel jacket on top? That is my plan for the moment. I will be firing in this open terrace, there is a narrow wall perpendicular in the middle of terrace, that will shield me form wind, but is is very windy up here, hence my thinking of the need to have this outside extra insulation after the bricks and before the stainless steel jacket. I feel I have bombarded you with questions, do not want to overwhelm, but just want to get this right and invest in a smart / safe way and take advantage that I have a family member in the states to bring the stuff over. Thank you for helping me determine what it is I need to buy (list) from amazon or where you suggest in order to be able to get this small kiln to cone 5 - 6 max. Sincerely, Gus
  5. Hi there, Thank you for all the wonderful info this forum, it is truly great and a HUGE help to everybody. I am writing from Dominican Republic. Here we do not have stores for ceramic materials and equipment like in the US. A lot of things need to be imported paying high freight forwarding fees. I have fired electric before and gas raku. Here the electricity is NOT AT ALL reliable and VERY expensive and we have regular power outages, which makes firing electric a big problem. I know most folks her recommend the conversion to a downdraft, but I wanted to try it this way as the downdraft conversion will be an added expense, chimney, etc... I am in the process of preparing a refurbished electric kiln onto gas updraft propane. Propane is more affordable here. I have read MANY of the posts on here and online about conversions and I anticipate the challenges ahead. also, Olsen's the Kiln Book, Mel's 21stcentury firing, and looking for the Art Of Firing by Nils Lou (very difficult to get), and many many more info online. A profesional potter friend is selling me an electric kiln to covert to gas (below the layout and some pics). He also used refractory cement on the inside walls (shown in the pics). It will have a layer of INSBLOK-19 1.5'' thick after the brick for added insulation, and then the stainless steel jacket. I would like the system to have a pressure gauge so that I can include the pressure info in my firing log and be able to learn as I go and become more efficient with my firings. I am planning to have as my max temp cone 5-6 (stoneware). Did a lot of earthenware before (electric) but would like to experiment / learn stoneware. I will have this kiln located in my 5th floor rooftop terrace outside. At the moment there is no roof, so I will be covering the kiln when not in use with tarp and a pice of corrugated zinc roofing. . I also have a pyrometer (dual thermo) and thermocouple that I will be placing in the kiln interior, 2-2.5 inches in (not shown in the layout). I only have 1 thermocouple for the moment and will wait to see if I need a 2nd one if I get too much temp difference between top & bottom. I wanted to ask, what is the pressure gauge in psi that I need? 0-15 psi? 0-30 psi? and the location of the pressure gauge, what should it be? According to this post which I have found that is VERY popular online about conversion: http://www.sebastianmarkblog.com/2018/07/gas-kiln-conversion-downdraft.html He advises to have the pressure gauge at the regulator in the tanks and control the flow form there. But I remember that I liked (in my old Raku kiln) to control the flow of the burner in the valve located on the galvanized steel pipe. I would like to have my gauge after that MAIN VALVE, to be closer to the kiln and be able to notice any changes (big and small) in realtime, and not be 8 feet away where the tanks are going to be. I wanted to check with you. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have never used a gauge before but feel it will be great for my learning curve. If you notice the layout, I have 2 valves before each of the burners and before the MAIN VALVE. I am thinking that since this will be my main kiln, I will be single firing, from green to glazed, that I may want to start of with ONE (1) burner in the beginning and then turn BOTH (2) of them on as I progress. I imagine that the 2 RED valves before the burners would be both completely open for the large duration of the firing and I would control the flow with the BLUE MAIN VALVE. Many thanks in advance for taking the time to read this and if you have info, even general that yo think will help me, it would be great. Sincerely, Gus PS: Thank you again for all the info here, I have gathered / saved lots of info theory. Now I will be putting all of that theory to practice. Hope to eventually build an oxygen probe using a car oxygen sensor, as I found some instructions online. Big shout out to: @neilestrick @Mark C. @Marcia Selsor @Bill Kielb Thank you for all your info, have seen your names a lot combing the forums and your advice has given me a sense of grounding when I finally do it.
  6. Hi, could you please post an update to your kiln? did it go up more than 600 C ? @Rupsa Nath Many thanks,
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