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Everything posted by brettwulc

  1. Thanks for the responses and advice! I was impatient and decided to fire everything a 3RD time. The good news is that all my cones dropped and the new thermocouple seemed to be the ticket. Gives more peace of mind for a glaze fire. Let's hope everything isn't over fired and glaze sticks to the ware.
  2. This may be more clay related, but I recently purchased a 1227 that is in great condition (brick and elements) but going through the motions of replacing relays/wiring harness and thermocouple. I did test the elements resistance and they're about brand new. The first firing I paid no attention and loaded ware for a bisque (06). After 14 hours I realized I should've checked the relays.. I turned the kiln off at about 1630, and did the relays and harness. Since I got through some quartz inversion after replacing relays and harness I went ahead and fired the kiln again, this time 06 and medium with a 5 minute hold. The kiln fired in 7 1/2 hours and my cones did not drop. In hindsight I should've done the thermocouple, but I've been in a rush to get out orders and just went for it.. Anyways, my question is - I'm replacing the thermocouple and want to get these pots to a bisque temp but 1) Im thinking of firing to 05, and 2) will all these firings effect the hardness or clay body?? Sorry if any of that is confusing.. Thanks!
  3. Great, thanks for the advice neil! Doing a cone 6 in the next couple days and will try this out.
  4. Hey all, I recently upgraded from a 1027 to a 1227. I use a 110v Ventmaster, and i'm smelling some strong fumes during a bisque. I have two 1/4 holes in the floor, and two 1/4 in the lid. I wanted to see how things went before drilling more holes. The lid holes have stopped pulling a flame after a certain temp (around 1000 f) and seem to just be blowing out air. Do I need another hole in the floor? More draw from vent cup under the kiln (putting paper over one of the 3 larger holes) Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
  5. Thanks for the chart Bill! I forgot to mention I was firing to 05 and the only witness cones i had around were 06.
  6. That sounds like a good idea, i’ll give it a go next round. Thanks for the info and responses from everyone! Very much appreciated. I’m constantly playing with switches, staggering, and density of pots to get my firings as even as possible, and wow the vent made a noticeable difference. Here are some cones from the bottom middle and top.
  7. @neilestrick I have an old skutt, 231x. Still works really well, replaced almost everything I could. But when it reaches glowing red you can definitely notice the small gaps between the rings etc.
  8. Hmmm, on second thought I can definitely smell some fumes.
  9. Thanks for the quick reply Neil. That makes a lot of sense, I was weary to drill lid holes to begin with because I didn't think they'd be necessary. Would it be smart to fill the holes for the next firing? I'm not getting any fume smell, but still a little worried.
  10. Hi all, So I'm a bit new to the downdraft vent game and have a question. I was advised to drill two 1/4" holes in bottom, and lid. It probably wasn't needed to drill into the lid because i have an older skutt and i know it's not vacuum tight. But I have it all hooked up proper and it draws a flame through each hole in the lid (when kiln is off). My question is (and this may be obvious) but as the kiln is on and reaching around 1000 f, heat is obviously rising and my little lid holes seem to be blowing out heat as opposed to sucking in? Is this completely normal? Can I assume my vent is still sucking in room air through those lid holes and mixing? Or am I just blowing out heat and fumes? Thanks!
  11. I've had a clay boss for 15 years and it's never let me down. Granted that was before creative industries became "speedball". I bought a second clay boss under speedball and it's been extremely reliable. They also come with a ten year warranty. I feel like it all comes down to preference.
  12. Happy to say my last cone 6 fire was a huge success! Thanks for all the input from everyone. Not sure if one or all of the recommendations did the trick, but all of my cones fell and everything came out great. Even this faux ash glaze I've been playing with turned out. ( I'll include a pic) I followed something similar to the schedule Sorc proposed and it ended up being 11 hours for everything to drop. Keeping the top cooler throughout the fire, putting a few larger pieces at the bottom, packing the top and overall taking more time. I also hard wired my boxes and got rid of the plugs.
  13. Thanks for the info! This sounds like a nice method, I have some underfired pots from a previous firing and I think I'll take a crack at this today. I know on high it's the top two elements, and medium is every other bottom element? I've been toying with them a bit. But all seem to glow properly/were placed properly. For an 06 the sitter has been falling around 6 hours, and for a 6 it's around 7 hours. Seemed too fast, ill be taking my time and seeing how the temps rise, placing larger pieces on the bottom and mugs on top. Is going a a kiln above my desired temp a good idea? I know people tend to do this with sitters. I'll post my results. I'm getting my hands on a pyrometer as well so I can actually know whats going on in there. Fingers crossed! Thanks everyone.
  14. Thanks Neil - I haven't dove into a vent so far because that's my fear.. And also feels like something I can hopefully solve without one. I figure it just takes tinkering with pots in the kiln and getting to know this kiln better. I've had shelves propped up off the floor since I got it. And a pyrometer has been on my list, I will definitely get one. Also, I figure i'll try firing to cone 7, or 04-05 and see where that gets me.
  15. They're low, med, high switches. I've been doing all on low for 2 hours, then medium for 2 hours, and then high for 2 hours. I don't have a downdraft, which I know would improve the uneveness - but don't have the $600 to invest right now. Would turning my bottom and middle section to med/high before the top make a nice difference?
  16. I have a skutt 231 (a bit old) with newer elements and sitter has been calibrated, sensing rod looks fine. The whole kiln received maintenance before I purchased. Everything seems to operate well, the bars seem to melt properly, and shut off the kiln each time. But the kiln seems to fire hottest on top and gradually gets cooler as you move down. With my last cone 6 firing the top cone was bent a little past cone 6 where the bottom cone was not bent at all. I have a multimeter coming in the mail to test the elements, and i've been playing with the density of pots throughout the kiln - but keep getting the same results. Should I be getting bars a cone or two higher of my desired temperature? All input greatly appreciated, thank you!! (This cone was from a recent 06 fire, this being the top shelf.)
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