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Earthandwater

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  1. Than you so much everyone! I do not have a photo: smashed the vessel long ago. But I am about to start again, so I´ll post if it ever happens! In the meantime I have used commercial underglazes and transparent glaze coat. Not my favourite, but it works, sometimes. But now I though I would check if these underglazes can be applied majolica style (if I dilute them first). I guess these all are safe? Much testing will follow:)
  2. I see. Thanks so much for all the help! But, when you write "gone metallic" - does that mean that the blue has a somewhat shine to it, or that it crusts and puddle on the outside of the glaze? When i stroke my fingers over it, everything is perfectly smooth, but some places the cobalt has a lilac ish, "metallic" colour. Is there some way to test this? I have heard of a lemon test, will it work on cobalt as well? Sorry for all of my questions, but i really don't want to poison anyone:)
  3. Thanks everyone! I will add some frits and check out Van Gilder, it looks very promising! I really appreciate your help! One last question: Quote liambesaw: you want enough to be effective as a colorant, but not so much that it doesn't enter the glaze and instead becomes metallic upon firing What does this part about metallic mean? I have som vessels that is decorated with cobalt, and some places this cobalt is almost purple and "shiny" maybe a little metallic in the colour (but smooth to touch). Does this mean that it has not entered the glaze properly?
  4. Thaks so much to both of you! One question though: how does one know that the oxide properly enters the glaze? On my tests, most of the pieces come out smooth and even, so I guess that is a success. Sometimes especially the iron crackles: it gets crusty. My guess is that the iron wasn't diluted enough. But I have not seen anything come out metallic, does it look in a special way?
  5. Hello! I am experimenting with different sorts of oxide decoration, and I like to brush on the oxides on the outside of my glazes. The glazes are food safe, and the oxide seem to be melting/blending in nicely with the glaze. When i feel the texture, it is smooth all the way. Does this usually mean that the oxides are sealed and the vessel is food safe? Iron might not be the most sinister oxide, but I am planning to also use cobalt and manganese ++, and I of course want to make sure that the products are safe. Does anyone know any tests or any signs that they might be? I could use ox
  6. I have for a long time tried to make a round tilted jar. We had one when I grew up, and some weeks ago I found just the sort online: This one is from Pat O´leary. I would really like some tips on how to make this form. I have tried throwing the sphere, but when do I tilt it? If before trimming, the trimming does not work. But after, the clay is too hard. I am planning a flat base. Any tips would be greatly appreciated! Also, I have made some jars like this one before, just not tilted. But the "spout" seldom gets right: when the jar is full, they do not pour properly - the liqui
  7. Thank you so much! Will investigate. It looks lovely!
  8. Just one more thing: I I apply the cobalt on the outside, is it then food safe? If it melts into the glaze, I suppose so..
  9. Thanks a lot, all of you! I will try with a white engobe, and also get myself a nice stiff white glaze. And will def research wash formulas and Majolica. I really had no idea that oxides could be used over glazes, as the glaze melts - but why not try, right? Very exited about this.
  10. Hello, I have a question about glazes and oxides. Usually, I do my oxide brushwork on greenware, and then coat the bique with transparent glaze. I often use darker clay, and then I usually apply some white slip or underglaze, before brushing on the oxides. But then I found a picture of a small pot from the potter Robyn Cove. I do similar style brushwork, and have always wanted a consistent white background, but on a darker clay. This potter does exactly that, but I have no idea how. It does not look like underglaze at all: it looks like everything was coated with a white glaze, and t
  11. Thank you so much! But, it applying it thinner a solution? I notice that everything is well at the top, where it is thinner. I had a thought after I read the other replies: can I mix a little slip into the iron/water mix? Then it will be diluted, but not so heavy. I have tried some underglazes, but do not really like them, they are so thick and creamy. Maybe if i dilute them, but I really like the color of oxides better.
  12. Thank you both! Yes, I wait until leather hard, but I still find that if I want to press a little extra in the brush stroke, suddenly it just pools down. But yes, I will test and thanks so much for your mixing tips! On the other problem, does anyone have any input? It was a little hard to describe so I am attaching an image below:
  13. Hi! I enjoy decorating with iron oxide, but I have trouble making things work. I have two main issues: I do not quite know how to dilute it: i have diluted with water, but it so easily "drips" down. When I use less water, i find the iron oxide "warps" it sort of gets a burnt crust where it is at its thickest. I am firing at 1230C. Should i dilute more, with more water? Or should i dilute with slip instead, to prevent it "dripping" down the ware? Any tips will be greatly apprectiated!
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