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Earthandwater's Achievements


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  1. Ok, thank you! I have actually been wondering this: if the cone 6-10 clay fully vitrifies at cone 6. More to wonder about:)
  2. Thank you so much! I have been mixing with a stoneware that can be fired from cone 6-10 - do you think that can work? Or should it be specialized to cone 10?
  3. Hello, Thank you for your input! Yes, I also find it easier to use the local clay in the glazes, as slips and other decoration. But, I really want to use some of it in the clay body as well. I did not quite understand what you meant about the bisque: does local clay have to be bisqued longer, to burn away impurities? I do not think at all that collecting local clay will be financially a good idea, but i really like the tought of it and i am not afraid of some extra work:)
  4. Hi! I want to use more local materials in my work, but I only have access to a community studio kiln. We fire at cone 6/7 and the local blue and red clay we have here, would just melt. But! Is it possible to mix this local clay with stoneware? I have already tried, but there are so many variables and ways to mix it that I am not sure. I mixed just a teeny bit into some stoneware and threw a cup: it did sink a little bit, maybe bacause of the earthenware, but i am not sure. Do you think I could increase the local clay percentage? Is there any well known issues regarding this? I have searched, but I can't find anything relevant. Best wishes, earthandwater
  5. Hi again and thanks again for all of your input! Sorce, I get your point and I am in some ways agreeing, but I don´t agree that the fact that I or others think about this is depressing. It rather means that we are at a point where we take some time to reflect on these matters instead of just taking. I absolutely get that the Japanese took both the tea and teabowls from China, but that does not mean that it is right to do it again. But I appreciate your input! I think I will go on and make my bowls. I will never brand them as "Japanese" teabowls, but again, why would I. People see the Japanese inspiration if they are interested anywway. Very happy for all of the answers and that you take your time to reflect on this with me!
  6. Hi again! Well, yes: it is true that I have never gotten any complaints about this, but I have been worried that people still might be offended or label my work simply poor taste because the inspiration i have from other cultures than my own. It would be so sad to make these tea bowls for the next 20 years, only to find that the idea and work is disrespectful, even with my good intentions etc. Thank you Bam2015! And yes, I found the other tread. I thought it was more about the usage of words and concepts than actual forms and shapes, but very instructive nevertheless.
  7. Thank you so much for your reply! Yes, I agree. It would be false advertising and more to call the bowls Japanese teabowls or chawans or gaiwans for that matter. I simply call them tea bowls. And I also agree with your wife and I am totally sympathetic about the wabi-sabi issue. Very strange how many westerners just use it about everything with some organic quality! However, I find it a little hard to balance. I don´t want to imitate any eastern culture´s teabowls, so I make my own: they are rounder than the traditional Japanese sylindrical chawans, but not similar to the chinese either. But: I don´t want to alter anything either, and I struggle to see the limit between making a bad replica and altering the concept, if you see what I mean?
  8. Hello, I have question, or rather I am interested in hearing your thought about cultural appropriation in pottery. Personally, I find great joy in making tea bowls: both carving and throwing them. I do not pretend that I am a Japanese potter or that my pots and bowls are Japanese in any way, but I always try to stress that I am inspired by Japanese aesthetics. I know that tea bowls came to Japan via China and Korea, and that tea bowls from these countries look very different. I am trying to make my own teabowls, but I am having trouble with balancing: I want to make them "my own" and in that sense make contemporary bowls that borrows from the tradition. I think (at least for me) that it would be disrespectful to try and imitate Japanese tea seremony chawans, because I lack the knowledge and skill to make them properly. I am also unsure of I even should do it, even with proper training, being an European. But then again, just making bowls and do whatever I want also could be taken the wrong way: as if I did no respect the tradition. Do you have any thoughts on this? I have googeled this and read what I could find, but it was not that much to find. I am curious if this is a theme that comes up often or never, what in this case, Japanese potters thinks, and how to balance it all. Thank you!
  9. Than you so much everyone! I do not have a photo: smashed the vessel long ago. But I am about to start again, so I´ll post if it ever happens! In the meantime I have used commercial underglazes and transparent glaze coat. Not my favourite, but it works, sometimes. But now I though I would check if these underglazes can be applied majolica style (if I dilute them first). I guess these all are safe? Much testing will follow:)
  10. I see. Thanks so much for all the help! But, when you write "gone metallic" - does that mean that the blue has a somewhat shine to it, or that it crusts and puddle on the outside of the glaze? When i stroke my fingers over it, everything is perfectly smooth, but some places the cobalt has a lilac ish, "metallic" colour. Is there some way to test this? I have heard of a lemon test, will it work on cobalt as well? Sorry for all of my questions, but i really don't want to poison anyone:)
  11. Thanks everyone! I will add some frits and check out Van Gilder, it looks very promising! I really appreciate your help! One last question: Quote liambesaw: you want enough to be effective as a colorant, but not so much that it doesn't enter the glaze and instead becomes metallic upon firing What does this part about metallic mean? I have som vessels that is decorated with cobalt, and some places this cobalt is almost purple and "shiny" maybe a little metallic in the colour (but smooth to touch). Does this mean that it has not entered the glaze properly?
  12. Thaks so much to both of you! One question though: how does one know that the oxide properly enters the glaze? On my tests, most of the pieces come out smooth and even, so I guess that is a success. Sometimes especially the iron crackles: it gets crusty. My guess is that the iron wasn't diluted enough. But I have not seen anything come out metallic, does it look in a special way?
  13. Hello! I am experimenting with different sorts of oxide decoration, and I like to brush on the oxides on the outside of my glazes. The glazes are food safe, and the oxide seem to be melting/blending in nicely with the glaze. When i feel the texture, it is smooth all the way. Does this usually mean that the oxides are sealed and the vessel is food safe? Iron might not be the most sinister oxide, but I am planning to also use cobalt and manganese ++, and I of course want to make sure that the products are safe. Does anyone know any tests or any signs that they might be? I could use oxides and seal with a clear glaze, but as I usually use dark clays, this would not work so good. Also, I am so charmed by the dark clay/white glaze combination. The glaze reacts nicely with the clay, and I am very happy with the oxide patterns. Would be very grateful for any help!
  14. I have for a long time tried to make a round tilted jar. We had one when I grew up, and some weeks ago I found just the sort online: This one is from Pat O´leary. I would really like some tips on how to make this form. I have tried throwing the sphere, but when do I tilt it? If before trimming, the trimming does not work. But after, the clay is too hard. I am planning a flat base. Any tips would be greatly appreciated! Also, I have made some jars like this one before, just not tilted. But the "spout" seldom gets right: when the jar is full, they do not pour properly - the liquid just flows down the wall. Any tips here would also be very welcome!
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