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Earthandwater

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  1. I have for a long time tried to make a round tilted jar. We had one when I grew up, and some weeks ago I found just the sort online: This one is from Pat O┬┤leary. I would really like some tips on how to make this form. I have tried throwing the sphere, but when do I tilt it? If before trimming, the trimming does not work. But after, the clay is too hard. I am planning a flat base. Any tips would be greatly appreciated! Also, I have made some jars like this one before, just not tilted. But the "spout" seldom gets right: when the jar is full, they do not pour properly - the liquid just flows down the wall. Any tips here would also be very welcome!
  2. Thank you so much! Will investigate. It looks lovely!
  3. Just one more thing: I I apply the cobalt on the outside, is it then food safe? If it melts into the glaze, I suppose so..
  4. Thanks a lot, all of you! I will try with a white engobe, and also get myself a nice stiff white glaze. And will def research wash formulas and Majolica. I really had no idea that oxides could be used over glazes, as the glaze melts - but why not try, right? Very exited about this.
  5. Hello, I have a question about glazes and oxides. Usually, I do my oxide brushwork on greenware, and then coat the bique with transparent glaze. I often use darker clay, and then I usually apply some white slip or underglaze, before brushing on the oxides. But then I found a picture of a small pot from the potter Robyn Cove. I do similar style brushwork, and have always wanted a consistent white background, but on a darker clay. This potter does exactly that, but I have no idea how. It does not look like underglaze at all: it looks like everything was coated with a white glaze, and then brushed over with cobolt oxide. But at the same time, no bleed, and the oxide and the glaze looks very "melted together". I would love any tips on how I can archieve this! I am attaching an example (the bottom left).
  6. Thank you so much! But, it applying it thinner a solution? I notice that everything is well at the top, where it is thinner. I had a thought after I read the other replies: can I mix a little slip into the iron/water mix? Then it will be diluted, but not so heavy. I have tried some underglazes, but do not really like them, they are so thick and creamy. Maybe if i dilute them, but I really like the color of oxides better.
  7. Thank you both! Yes, I wait until leather hard, but I still find that if I want to press a little extra in the brush stroke, suddenly it just pools down. But yes, I will test and thanks so much for your mixing tips! On the other problem, does anyone have any input? It was a little hard to describe so I am attaching an image below:
  8. I usually apply to greenware, sometimes bisqueware.
  9. Hi! I enjoy decorating with iron oxide, but I have trouble making things work. I have two main issues: I do not quite know how to dilute it: i have diluted with water, but it so easily "drips" down. When I use less water, i find the iron oxide "warps" it sort of gets a burnt crust where it is at its thickest. I am firing at 1230C. Should i dilute more, with more water? Or should i dilute with slip instead, to prevent it "dripping" down the ware? Any tips will be greatly apprectiated!
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