Jump to content

Rippity

Members
  • Posts

    12
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Rippity

  1. Oh my goodness, you guys! Thank you so much for the thought you put into your portion of your two cents here. So very helpful! GEP, you nailed my fear of pigeon holing myself and not being fun or artful...and giving myself the freedom to be an artist first. Mark C, your advice was perfect and to the point. I have been told by family and friends that I am too hard on my own pottery. I think that's good to a point-- and I think that's how I was able to sell so many. I too, have looked at others' "garbage" and been enthralled. What I don't sell I will smash with a hammer! ShawnHar, I love the idea of being able to teach, be my own glaze master in my own studio, and sell the stuff I've made; thanks for that vision. Neil- I like how you didn't put a judgement on taking a lot of time on a single piece ( vs volume), because frankly, sometimes that's where the art comes in. Cactus and Hulk, I like the visual of the three- legged stool. That gives me something to think about, "Small batch potter" I like I wasn't looking to define myself as much as to get a grip on thought and Liam, I am working on consistency; I think being able to recreate is the hallmark of a good potter. Thank for your thoughts.
  2. Hello all... This branches over several threads (I think)... I'm at a crossroads of sorts: Of figuring out where I want to go with pottery. I started last year after a 20+ year hiatus and my learning curve is now dropping. I did 4-5 shows last year and sold a decent amount of pieces. I'm looking at the pieces coming out of the kiln and they're just okay (glazes need some work, but forms are good). My questions: What is the difference between production potter and hobby potter? Is there a definition? If you are a production potter do you still get to play around with things that intrigue you? Second question: What do I do with all the pieces that are taking up space/not really all that great/flawed/overall uninspiring? I guess I'm looking for "big picture" advice and direction. TIA -Sheryl
  3. Is there a best glaze for planters? I know at Lowes terra cotta is the go-to for planters, but I just have white mid-fire clay. Should I glaze the inside at all? Advice por favor! Thanks, <sheryl>
  4. Thank you for this well thought out response. It is helpful going forward to know what to look for and be aware of. -Sheryl
  5. Really? I saw they were different on Digitalfire; I guess I didn't investigate more than that. Liambesaw, I thought the higher potassium was a deal breaker, requiring more heat to make it viscous enough...? Thanks, you two!
  6. I would like to make underglaze pencils from THIS website, but I do not have potash feldspar. I have Minsparr 200 and custer feldspar... is there an additive or substitute I could use? TIA
  7. Is there a learning curve with new clays? I just bought two new clays and at this point it seems that my skill level has deteriorated. Is there a solution so I'm not recycling so much clay? Maybe wedging more or something? TIA -Rippity
  8. I'm certain I'm not the first to ask this, but can't find any posts on it... Feel free to link me to the right thread.... I just got a dark clay and am also using a white clay. How do you organize your clays/throwing days to keep them and their dust/sediment/recycling separate? Thanks.
  9. Okaaaaay. First, thanks for the prompt reply. Typically I buy from Amazon for the free shipping. Advice on where to buy said 6 cone clay? I have often used The Ceramic Shop in Philly. Another question: Is a 15% shrinkage NORMAL? It seems like A LOT.
  10. Newbie here. I started in November and have fired my kiln four times (2 bisque, two glaze) with pleasing results. I use Amaco Stoneware Clay 38. Typically I fire it to cone 7 (I was shooting for cone 6, but my kiln fires hot). Recently I found this info connected to the clay I buy: "Bisque fire to Cone 04 (1971°F, 1077°C). The firing range is Cone 5–10 (2205°–2381°F), and the recommended glaze firing is Cone 10 (2381°F). At Cone 5 (2205°F), shrinkage is 13% and absorption is 7%. At Cone 10 (2381°F), shrinkage is 15%, absorption is 1.4%, and the clay fires white in oxidation and gray in reduction, both delicately peppered with darker gray spots." So my question is this: What does "recommended" mean to the fired pieces I've already made? Should I change my firing range to high, rather than mid level? What about the cone 6 glazes I've been using? If I begin to fire at cone 10, should I still use the Amaco cone 6 glazes? What does cone 6 vs cone 10 mean in terms of glaze usage? ...and is it even necessary to change courses? TIA
  11. Thank you both so much for your thoughtful replies. I think I'm on the right road though I'm not so good at having patience, it seems to require! I have checked out all I can from our library; I really like John Britt, so having him in my personal library is a no-brainer.
  12. Inherited a kiln, bought a wheel and some clay and amaco glazes in November, and I am hooked, but woefully inexperienced. I also bought a bunch of silica, fluxes, frits, additives and colorants. I know of glazy.org, but it leaves me glazy-eyed, not knowing much. I fire in the mid-range level, using a white amaco clay body. I intend to make product to sell, if only to afford my clay habit. I want to make glazes I will use, and have even made test tiles, but where to begin? Is there a MUST have glaze? If I were to make a 5 gallon (and I won't anytime soon) what should it be? Can I trust glazy? I wish there were a review on each glaze! Do I look for a style of glaze I like and then add colorants? How can I be assured my kiln won't be trashed from some messed up recipe? Overall, I am enjoying this journey, but want to learn more, and have it be applicable to my shop, not just head knowledge. Any advice?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.