Jump to content

kayleyvdb

Members
  • Content Count

    23
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About kayleyvdb

  • Rank
    Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. @Callie Beller Diesel - Thanks for the tagging tip! This is much easier. The reason I want to double dip this glaze is to get a layered look, and this method has worked well for me in the past... But rather than doing two separate dips, I wonder if I could do a quick dip for the entire piece, then hold it a bit longer in the glaze on the areas I want to be more opaque. What method would be best if I wanted to layer two different glazes? Perhaps using a flocculated glaze wouldn't work for this? I didn't realize Sue McLeod had a facebook group. Thanks so much! Joining now...
  2. Thank you, Callie! Quick question: I typically like to do two coats of this glaze. Do you think that will be necessary when it's flocculated? It appears to be going on more thickly than before flocculation, and it's the second coat that's taking ages to dry...
  3. Good news - It sticks! Thanks for the tip.
  4. Results are in ... the cone 06 is underfired with the 50 degree thermocouple offset. I didn’t have cones 07 and 05 for the test but here’s where the cone 06 witness cone ended up.
  5. I’m not sure exactly how overtired they are, unfortunately. I expect they are fired to a cone 04 or 03. I didn’t realize they were overfired And ran two firings... so it’s two full kilns worth of work that I’m supposed to deliver to a boutique, which is why I’m trying to find a solution! I may just have to remake everything though. The glaze recipe I used doesn’t share the ideal specific gravity but my glaze mixture is 1.46. I have been heating my work in the oven first!
  6. Okay, good to know! The bisque I’m glazing is slightly overfired so I was relieved to hear in the video that this technique works on overfired bisque. I gave it a try today with vinegar and following the instructions in the video, but the glaze wouldn’t dry on my pieces. Any idea why that might be and what I can do to remedy it?
  7. Thank you!! Why do you choose to use Epsom salts over vinegar? The same glaze is used on both of the pieces I shared pictures of, but they are on different clay. The top piece is Plainsman m332 and the bottom is a 50/50 blend of m332 and Laguna’s speckled buff. The glaze recipe is one I got from a community center I used to take classes at. I had luck with it there so I decided it would be a good recipe to try for my first attempt at mixing my own glaze. here’s the recipe (the numbers are very specific because I adapted it from a recipe for a large batch)... 36.62
  8. Thanks so much for that insight! I’ll look into it and contact SDS. It looks like the 50 degree offset did the trick for the glaze fire! I’m running a cone 06 test today to see if it’s consistent.
  9. Hello! I’m wondering if anyone has some tips on getting a smooth glaze application when dipping. Any drips that occur on the outside of my pots while glazing are very visible after firing, even after I’ve waited for the glaze to dry and attempted to scrape off the excess. Any tips?
  10. Fingers crossed! The software should be up to date because I ordered it a little over a month ago. Thanks again for all your help!
  11. Thank you! I‘ve been loading the kiln with some mugs that didn’t turn out the way I had hoped just to mimic an actual firing, so hopefully the results I’m getting are as accurate as possible! I’m currently firing with a 50 degree offset thinking I’ll work my way down from there. Then I’ll have to check my bisque firing schedule and cross my fingers it’s calibrated for that as well!
  12. They haven’t! Here’s a new photo ... the cones from the firing with the hold are on the left. The most recent firing is on the right.
  13. Thank you, Bill! I ran another firing after adjusting the lid. There’s still a small gap in the very front but it’s much better. It’s about 1/8” now. According to the firing log, it followed the schedule perfectly. It took 8 hours and 40 minutes. I’ve shared two photos of the firing log, one to show the entire firing (ignore the time and temp stamp) and one to show the end of the firing. The cones are all melted again, but they aren’t as destroyed (I hope). I’ve included a side by side comparison of my previous firing (left) and this firing (right). I’d like to r
  14. Roger that on the no holds! The thermocouple is new and just installed so I really hope that isn’t the issue. Thanks for your reply!
  15. The kiln actually was reaching set point! I programmed it to hit 2210 with a 20 minute hold, based on Orton’s charts and info. They list 2228 as the set point temperature for a 108 degree ramp with large witness cones, and recommend dropping the set point temperature 18 degrees for a 20 minute hold, which is where my 2210 degree setpoint came from. For my next firing, I’ll adjust the lid and make the setpoint 2228 with no hold. There is no thermocouple offset programmed right now. Does this information change anything?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.