Smokey2

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One has to keep in mind that many part of L&L's manuals are sourced from multiple places such as Orton and Bartlett to name just two. Many of articles were written 10-20+ years ago by many different authors and is still valid today. The fact of what L&L packs into that 1" binder (it really should go into a 1-1/2" binder) is impressive. To go through the expense just to compile, print, sort, add tabs and insert into a binder all this information and supply it with each new kiln is a credit to them. But honestly, if you think about it, the cost of proofreading and rewriting that whole binder is impossible and never going to happen. IMO, a new single page can be inserted at the very front of the manual with a header in large bold type that reads: THE FIRST FIRING OF YOUR NEW KILN Your first test firing is done very slowly, about 16 to 19 hours total to minimize the inner and outer surface temperature differences in the kiln while it goes through its maiden firing. Also this will slowly steam off any moisture absorbed by the firebrick during construction, shipping, and storage. The test firing is done to cone 5 (about 2167°F) to vitrify the special coating on the inside on the firebrick and to allow an “aluminum oxide” coating to form on the element’s surfaces. The coating on the brick helps to reflect the heat radiated from the elements, strengthen the surface of the firebrick, and help prevent dusting in the kiln. The oxide layer on the elements helps to protect them from the many contaminants found in many materials fired in a kiln. This aluminum oxide layer will rejuvenate itself every time there is an oxygen rich firing to a high temperature. Going to cone 5 may also point out any problems with your electrical service - like low or incorrect voltage or wrong supply line wire size. The elements will also seat themselves in the ceramic holders - and any springiness you see when you first get your kiln will be alleviated. Notice, there is no mention of a controller.

Yeah I agree that the manual needs updating and proof reading, but L&L still has the best of all the kiln manuals out there. I've seen more than a few If you think about it, the kiln doesn't really care which controller or sitter is hanging its the side, its gonna need the same first firing (breaking in firing) no matter what is powering the elements.

The info about first firing is in L&L's manual, its just difficult to navigate. See PDF 1,2 & 3 Also I remember one of your posts that you mentioned that you can read the color of the pots during a firing to determine when the kiln has reached your desired temp. Use that experience and observe your firing and when it reached the right color write down the temp(s) you see on the screen. from there you can adjust your firing on the go by pressing the [ADJ] button. (See PDF 4). Then create a custom program to dial in your future firings based on your knowledge and observations. 1. First Firing.pdf 2. First Firing.pdf 3. First Firing.pdf 4. Adjustments.pdf

My instructions for the same kiln says to do a slow bisque firing to cone 5 (not 05) which should take 16 to 19 hours. Leave the cone offsets alone and adjust the temps and the holds to get where you need to be. My ^6 schedule seg ramp/h temp hold 1 250° 230° 20m 2 350° 1900° 3 108° 2180° 15m 4 9999 2080° 5m 5 9999 1900° 20m From my manual

Yes, It seems I can't tell my left from my right let alone how to read an analog clock. Directions are fixed above.

Years back I had one of these and as luck has it I found the images I used to sell it on Craig's list. Ignore the the decal markings on your kiln and take a look at the image. If you look closely you will see some pencil marks and notice the top decal markings is slightly different than the bottom markings Bisque firing (^04) 1) Set your dial to 9:00 (Low) for one hour 2) Then set your dial to around 5:30 (Med) for 2 hours 3) Next set your dial to around 2:00 (High) until the sitter drops Glaze firing (^6) 1) Set your dial to 9:00 (Low) for one hour 2) Then set your dial to around 5:30 (Med) for 1 hour 3) Next set your dial to around 1:00 (Hi-Fire) until the sitter drops As you get to know your kiln you will fine tune your firing settings

I'm not adverse to old tech, current tech or future tech Nice Including this forum?

This might be a good topic to pin

I have a feeling I'm quite a bit older than you. When new technology becomes common place it turns into an appliance that's hardly noticed. When I was a kid we didn't have computers!

I guess you never noticed that there are computer controllers attached to kilns nowadays. ---------------- 3-D printed stamps from Spectrum Glaze

Electric and gas fired kilns were once considered new technology over wood fired kilns. I'll bet there were some debates about that once upon a time Wood fired kilns were once considered new technology over cooking fires because it was easier to control the heat. I'll bet there were some debates about that too Electric wheels with gas pedals compared to the old electric wheels that had maybe one or two different speed settings were once considered new technology When someone first mounted an electric motor on to a kick wheel it was probably considered blasphemy over the previous method of kicking a stone around. Yes that was considered new technology. When the wheel was first invent and installed on a animal drawn cart and when it passed by someone who was making coils of clay to make a pot thought "Eureka! I could use a wheel to make pots!" I'll bet there were some harsh word that the pot looked machine made. We all have choices and we all embrace them based on our own esthetics. Personally I can't wait for Star Trek replicators to be invented

Take your favorite pizza crust recipe and swap out the water and add beer. Because of the extra yeast in the beer you may want to let the dough rise a little bigger/longer. I prefer a darker over a lighter beer. There's also sauteed garlic and onion in the dough and as you can see in the image I sprinkled sesame seeds on the dough. I missed spelled soppressata it like pepperoni only way way better.

Last night's dinner: Beer Crust with with last season's home canned tomato sauce and sopressa

I'm in shape... round is a shape so I guess I'm in perfect shape. Seriously, I'm at 175lbs. Last year at this time I was at 225lbs. Where's the chocolate I need to get back into shape.

Not Babs but here is my Naan AKA Flat bread recipe 4 oz of buttermilk, you can substitute yogurt but you may need a little more 6 oz of AP flour 1/2 teaspoon of salt If I'm cooking this on an outside BBQ that's all I do, If I'm cooking indoors on an electric pancake griddle I'll add a teaspoon of baking power. It isn't necessary but nice I warm up the griddle or the grill then I add the ingredients and mix the dough until everything is combined and is still a little sticky. I cut the dough into quarters then I roll out each piece on some bench flour to about 1/8" thick. Sometimes the dough will want to shrink back so I'll go back and roll them out a second time. Heating up the cooking surfaces to rolling out the dough takes about the same length of time so this is quick. Once it puffs up a little and there are some small browned areas I flip and cook the second side and take it off the heat when it puffs up more.

Sorry Min, with due respect you shouldn't assume what I see This video below is from The World Health Organization https://youtu.be/Ded_AxFfJoQ

Regular masks may be effective if you are sneezing or coughing in order to prevent spreading Covid-19 to others

There are N95 face masks and there are Surgical N95 face masks. Its surprising how often, and by who, the two are confused

Because Covid-19 is transmitted via droplets, N95 or N100 particle respirators aren't effective.