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AaronRotchadl

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About AaronRotchadl

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  1. Anyone have experience with cheaper non-HP/Canon brand toner cartridges? Do they work ok? I'm looking into buying a used laser printer to make decals and I just want to know if I'm going to have to pay the premium price for the name brand toner. As I understand it, though, the toner contains iron oxide because it sticks to the drum well. So I'm assuming that all replacement toners would have the iron so that they can function as intended. I want to be sure before I start buying things though. Anyone have luck with certain off-brands of toner? or found any that don't work? Thanks!
  2. In case anyone was wondering- Paragon said to just change the elements, that’s all.
  3. Thank you guys! Just waiting to hear back from Paragon.
  4. From what I’ve found (which is not too much) this should work fine if the elements are replaced with 240v elements, and maybe replacing the relays would help? Am I missing anything? I can buy a 208v kiln at a good price so I’d like to know. It’s a Paragon TnF-23-3 240v single phase, 47 amps. thanks!
  5. @neilestrick Thanks for the quick reply! When you say a "new controller" you mean just the part with the buttons that is riveted in or the entire box outside the bricks?
  6. I was wondering if these are reliable controllers? They're the first generation of digital controller by Paragon(that has the telephone style buttons) and I'm looking at buying a used kiln that has one. I couldn't find much information about them other than manuals. Are they known to run for a long time? Any serial issues anyone knows of? I'm just skeptical of anything "first generation" anything for fear that kinks still need to be worked out. Thoughts on what a good price would be for a 16"Wx22"D kiln with this controller? The rest of the kiln looks to be in 9/10 condition. Thanks!
  7. Magnolia- That is a great idea! I guess it is that simple... maybe. Thank you! A
  8. Hey all- I really love working with Malcom Davis Shino glaze for the depth that can be achieved just through the uneven/controlled drying of a singled dipped piece. The way I understand it, this happens because the Soda Ash is water soluble and thus travels with the water as it evaporates from the surface, creating varying levels of soda ash in the glaze across the surface. Now, I know that for those deep, contrasting surfaces this glaze needs heavy reduction for the carbon trapping to happen. I've had some Malcom Davis glazed pots in firings that didn't get very much reduction and the result
  9. Thanks for the replies everyone! I feel like I'm always seeking out answers on this forum that have probably been answered many times over.. and I really appreciate you regulars on here who are always giving your time and knowledge to help those of us with less experience. There's a lot of room for tragic error in Equipment Use and Repair and we're all so much better off with y'alls input.
  10. My partner and I have an old Alpine gas kiln model HF-24 that was given to us when we took over a lease. We're wanting to get rid of it within two months and was looking for some input. Like I said it was given to us, so we're not hellbent on making any money off of it. It was allegedly operational til right before it was delivered. It's been under a tarp, but also been rained on a little bit. When it was delivered, one of the two red electric controllers(?) on the right side got knocked and is crushed beyond fixable(I think). The screen that plugs in(temperature reading I think?) reads "oooo"
  11. Hey guys- Thanks a lot for weighing in! I'm going to take y'alls word that cottle boards are the way to go. I think I may try to make the "base" its own mold and attach it to the tower in order to keep the weight down and use less plaster.
  12. Anyone have any experience making plaster molds without cottle boards? I want to make some plaster molds of desert towers that are roughly 8"x8"x14".(see photo) I've made one sculpture/mold so far using the method from Andrew Martin's book where the cottle boards are placed with the sculpture upright and then the seam lines are formed with clay by reaching down into the mold.(see photo) The experience was nightmare-ish in the moment and the mold, albeit ugly, works like a charm for slip casting, but is soooo heavy(like 60 lbs.) because of the way the sculpture tapers. So in order to save on we
  13. I'm wondering what is the maximum absorbency(%) of a mature clay body to be considered "dishwasher/microwave safe"? I'm assuming that if a clay body absorbs a certain amount of water and is microwaved it could explode... I'm using a terra cotta body and firing to ^3. I'll be doing an absorbency test real soon. Any data, anecdotal or otherwise would be much appreciated!
  14. I just started experimenting with an airbrush and I'm finding that some of the underglazes that need to be applied thicker to be opaque don't come out as nice because you have to move the brush so slowly to get adequate coverage. One of the best glazes that goes dark fast and with a thinner coat is the Amaco Velvet Blue Green. This allows me to be more gestural with the brush and move a little faster. Anyone know of other underglaze colors that behave like this? Or any other commercial glazes that you particularly like to use with the airbrush? Thanks!
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