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MFP

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  1. Like
    MFP got a reaction from Bill Kielb in Pyrophyllite ( aka Desert talc)   
    There are far more forms of talc than are used in pottery.....and it is possible that over the years, depending on which mines were operating.....people got sold "talc" of all kinds...not very helpful when trying to replicate old recipes and  vendors have used this generic term for what are distinctly different minerals. The stearite group is what we are using now as "talc". 
    Varieties of TalcHide
    Beaconite A fibrous variety of talc resembling asbestos. Chromian Talc A Cr-bearing variety of talc. Polyphant Stone A greyish-green potstone flecked with whiteand brown. Used since Norman times as an ornamental stone in churches. Pseudolite Octahedral talc pseudomorphs after spinel. Steatite A massive variety of talc with a greasy feeling, often used for ornamental carvings. Zincian Talc Zn-bearing variety from the "Mixed Series" formation, Nežilovo, Macedonia. Associates, i.a., with ferricoronadite.
    Relationship of Talc to other SpeciesHide
    Member of: Pyrophyllite-Talc Group Other Members of this group: Ferripyrophyllite Fe3+Si2O5(OH) Mon. Minnesotaite Fe2+3Si4O10(OH)2 Tric. 1 : P1 Pyrophyllite Al2Si4O10(OH)2 Tric. 1 Willemseite Ni3Si4O10(OH)2 Mon.
    Common Associates
  2. Like
    MFP got a reaction from Bill Kielb in Pyrophyllite ( aka Desert talc)   
    Yes....although "talc" is a homogeneous term in pottery meaning "stearite", it is a heterogeneous term in mining....referring to at least 8 different minerals depending on the application.  Pottery was even less of a market share 30 years ago than it is now.....there's no telling what we got when we were using "talc".  I know we had to abandon at least two glazes because one of the materials that showed up were no longer the same....and we couldn't get what we had previously.  I am sure the university was using soapstone....but other people were using whatever people said "talc" was....glaze theory and glaze calculation was not the norm in the pottery community.....you had recipes and you followed them....if a material changed....you just did not have that glaze any more. Thankfully, times have changed. 
  3. Like
    MFP reacted to liambesaw in Black Colorant?   
    You should mix a bit of flux with it, gerstley or 3134 or something so it will stick when fired.  Otherwise, like oxides they can wipe off after it's bisqued.  Optionally use cmc gum or glycerin to help it brush nicely as well.
  4. Like
    MFP got a reaction from Hulk in A true WHITE stoneware?   
    Yikes!   But to be totally honest, there are just bodies I like more.  Everyone is different which is great....imagine the problems if we all liked exactly the same things! 
  5. Like
    MFP got a reaction from sorhain in Unbranded wheel pedal adjustment?   
    Just to underscore Neil's point.....my Shimpo is 40 years old and still going strong. If you buy a brand wheel.....it will last you much better.  Sometimes if you check around, there might be a local potter's guild where people sell their used wheels because they bought something niftier. 
  6. Like
    MFP got a reaction from Magnolia Mud Research in Screw Adjustments on the back of Olympics   
    http://www.greatkilns.com/resources/operating-manuals.html
    This is all the manuals available: It is in the electric kiln one. If you click on any of the below, it takes you right to the pdf.
    Kiln Sitter Manual LT3K Kiln Sitter Manual P&K 3 Key Manual RTC-1000 Control Manual Electric Kilns Operating Manual Standard 3 Key Cone Fire Manual Orton Auto-Cone Manual Orton VentMaster Manual V6CF Manual V6CF 700 Series Olympic Gas Kilns Manual High Limit Controller for Gas Kilns Manual Gas Blower Burner Glass & Heat Treating Kilns Manual Genesis Manual  
  7. Like
    MFP got a reaction from MamaJenXO in Underglaze Bleeding Wanted!   
    I just had a cone 6 fire where I put Amaco undeglaze on the top of a glaze.....it did blend in better....it was on top of Amaco Snow Celadon. I tried the white on Amaco Mulberry celadon and it did not entirely melt. 
  8. Like
    MFP reacted to neilestrick in Vacuum cleaner for the clay studio, yes or no?   
    You can get HEPA filters for may of the shop-vac style vacuums. I've got a Rigid from Home Depot that I put a HEPA filter on .
  9. Like
    MFP reacted to neilestrick in A true WHITE stoneware?   
    White stoneware can look very white, until you put it next to something that is truly white. It's always going to be slightly yellow/tan or grey.
  10. Like
    MFP reacted to neilestrick in Unbranded wheel pedal adjustment?   
    Yeah, that wheel is a Chinese made wheel that they have started selling on eBay and Amazon. The quality of the build is very poor. If you have the option to return it since it doesn't work properly, I highly recommend doing that. I wouldn't expect it to last very long even if it did function properly. Then save up for a better wheel.
    As far as getting it to work, I don't think anyone here on the forum has ever actually used on of those, but hopefully someone who has will see your post and chime in. On most wheels there is an adjustment dial on the controller where you can set the low end and high end. I don't know if that exists on that wheel, though. Look for dials on the electronic parts and see if they do anything. Otherwise, it could be an assembly error, and you would have figure out which part was assembled in the wrong position.
  11. Like
    MFP got a reaction from Hulk in Oxides   
    Another option is cobalt alumina...it's a bright blue and easy to see how much you are using. I used to use the cobalt oxide to do Chinese brush on pots.....on the glaze. It needed to look like the ink would look if you were doing the drawing on paper....that was my guide. I liked it better than carbonate because I could see the result better than with the carbonate. 
  12. Like
    MFP reacted to Min in Results for Min (and everyone else) on unknowns   
    So you are sure that it is colemanite that the 3 unknowns used in the tests above were mixed with right? Or is the colemanite in question too? If it is definitely colemanite then I think you could rule out plastic vitrox as being one of these 3 unknowns. Also think you could rule out clays. 
    For the other tests from this thread, is this the recipe you used: 20 Frit 3134, 21 EP Kaolin, 27 mystery material, 32 silica?
    edit: I took the liberty of editing the title of this thread, think we need all the ideas we can get to try and untangle this!
  13. Like
    MFP reacted to oldlady in Tom Coleman's Decorating Colors   
    the coleman plate shown has been sprayed.   the colors go on top of the dried but not fired base glaze.  the larger shapes of the brightly colored areas are controlled by using a cardboard or something like it to prevent colors from some areas.  the tiny red lines are trailed.
    this is not the way tom currently works.  he did a number of really strange things when he moved from oregon to las vegas as a reaction to people telling him to "loosen up" his very beautifully controlled work up til then.   read the first book about his working toward a special show and then the second one written years later.  the 1978 title is The mud-pie dilemma and the second is something close, i only have the first book.
    he has lent his name to the colored glazes but he does make his own glazes and fires to cone 10 or more.  
     
     
  14. Like
    MFP got a reaction from Hulk in Clay composition and crazing   
    A completely tangential question related to this comment. When I was working before....everyone bisqued to cone 010 and now it is hotter at 04. I noticed making these glaze samples that the bodies don't suck up the glaze as fast as they did when the bisque was 010 suggesting to me that it is more closed. I am wondering what effect that might have in terms of the glaze/body interface?  I remember looking at broken shards in the past and the interface was quite apparent and the merging of the body and glaze quite apparent. 
  15. Like
    MFP reacted to Babs in Oxides   
    KIf just starting out on this you could make different dilutions to see how it turns out.
    Some mix the cobalt oxide with a little iron oxide for a softer blue.
    Cobalt oxide ,a strong colourant,  little goes a long way.   
    What is your next move? Clear glaze?  White glaze?
    Should make a tile with stripes of your strengths of CoO
  16. Like
    MFP reacted to liambesaw in Amaco Celadons   
    I just have a cheap one from harbor freight, I think it was like 10 bucks with a coupon.  Works good, I assume any brand will probably be fine
  17. Like
    MFP got a reaction from Bill Kielb in Amaco Celadons   
    Thank you Bill. I did not have an issue with the plasticity part.  I will try to compress more. I usually go back and forth several times and press hard enough to get small chatter marks. I also pay attention to where the bottom meets the wall and compress that as well a number of times. I finally do a final compression at the end on the bottom to make sure I am getting all the water off the surface.  This last one that cracked was under plastic.  Of course, it's about 120 degrees in my shop until I go out there and open the doors....then it's about 100. But the Frost was the only cracker. What i have noticed is that it is very picky about thickness....can't be too thick or thin. If Master Lin can use a hairdryer on his pots on the wheel, I don't see why you can't. I also tried something new today. I have had trouble with the wider pieces not wanting to let go of the bat....and then the edges start getting too dry and in the instance of Frost, I think that puts too much tension on the bottom. Today I had a very wide plate that the edge indicated it needed to be turned but it was so wide, I knew there was no way it was going to come off. So I put another bat on top of it and turned it over. I then spent several hours making up glaze samples. By the time I was ready to go in, it came free from the bat. I think I am going to start doing that with Frost. That New Zealand body I was telling you about is a glassy porcelain. I find it to be very throwable.  How wide are your widest pots with Frost?
    I made up 9 glaze samples today. I already have 9 tests made up for those materials....and to make sure Mark was right about that one can being zircopax.  It occurred to me today that one of them might be Kona F 4.  I need to make up your Hard Candy tomorrow....I forgot the printout in the house.  I am going to make a clear sample and one with mason stain....there is a clear crimson I am after. 
  18. Like
    MFP got a reaction from Bill Kielb in Amaco Celadons   
    That's pretty impressive Bill. I am doing some tests with  Frost in this first fire.  I like the New Zealand porcelain that Clay Art Center makes but it is so sticky that it is hard to make nice handles with it. I have had a lot of cracking problems with Frost in comparison to the other porcelains I have been trying. The New Zealand is superior.  I think I have finally overcome most of the cracking problems....I actually started remembering how I used to compress in the past which is not only similar to the video you shared with me but also involves removing all the surface moisture from the bottom with the rib in one last compression. My cracking has minimized since then....but Frost has still been a problem.....it can't be too thick or too thin. 
  19. Like
    MFP reacted to Babs in Awesome Glaze Combo for Cone 6 Ox   
    Combination..how? dipped, glazes mixed?
    Think yhete is a genwrous sharing of methods and recipes here but may be hidden under different posts..
    Nice pot!
  20. Like
    MFP reacted to Min in Amaco Potters Choice Layering dipping glazes Crawling   
    Hi GDPCeramics and welcome to the forum.
    I would recommend getting some MAGMA and make it into a jell then add a small amount of that to your glazes. (instructions in the link) I would strongly suggest trying just a small amount of glaze first before adding it to the entire bucket(s). It will make the glaze take longer to dry but it's really great stuff that allows multiple glaze layers to be built up without crawling. Do add the copper carbonate as directed or it will spoil in glazes without copper. (It's also a really good at suspending any glazes)
  21. Like
    MFP got a reaction from Rae Reich in Olympic Electric Lid Question   
    I had a Skutt I used for bisque. I stupidly let someone talk me into selling it to them a few years ago when I was despairing of ever getting things going again.  We didn't have all the bells and whistles that exist today.  This little guy is supposed to be cone 10 but since there are not any good cone 10 electric glazes....looks like it's gas for cone 10 for me.  I still have all my glazes. Now If I could ever find my glaze book, I could convert them. I still have a partial bag of Kingman
  22. Like
    MFP got a reaction from Rae Reich in Olympic Electric Lid Question   
    This little guy has pretty light shelves....maybe the big guy's shelves....they weigh a ton!  Thanks for the suggestion
  23. Like
    MFP got a reaction from Rae Reich in Olympic Electric Lid Question   
    You are definitely my kind of gal!  Make do with what you have......it was kind of a credo we all took substantial pride in in the past. 
  24. Like
    MFP got a reaction from liambesaw in Need help identifying glaze materials   
    Back in the day, barium was all we had....we did not have Strontium.....until I started looking at recipes on here and glazy,, I had never hear of it before. Also nepheliine syenite.  So if you wanted a crystal clear celadon.....you used barium. Celadon was one of the glazes I used the most.  I actually don't have much of #3.....maybe 10 pounds. It's #5 that I have 50 pounds of.  #1 about 20 pounds. That's another reason I think #3 might be barium......it was almost used up.   I suppose it could be Kingman.  But I don't think that would fuse at 04. I have made up batches of that glaze PeterH posted for me with all three substances.  
    I found a recipe on glazy:  50 gerstley, 35 silica, 15 EPK.....then 20 Bentonite, 10 chrome oxide and 10 cobalt carbonate. I am assuming the last three on typos and should be 2, 1 and 1? Right?
  25. Like
    MFP reacted to neilestrick in Olympic Electric Lid Question   
    http://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/topic/20587-question-about-skutt-electric-kiln/
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