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MFP

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Posts posted by MFP

  1. I have a customer who wants two inch vertical stripes on the pot in black and grey. I am going to try painter's sharp edge tape. Anyone have any other suggestions? I am using a black celadon and Dimo's Dark Grey. Any suggestions would be most appreciated!!

  2. I just finished getting my propane tank hooked up. I have the older six burner model. I have to test the ring before putting it back under the kiln. I used a propane supply place. I have a high pressure hose that is supposed to deliver the right btus but I am skeptical. Let me know how yours goes. 

    You know about putting the 12 inch shelf exactly 1.5 inches under the hole in the lid? For some reason that got omitted from subsequent manuals.  I found out about it from a lady who has fired this model kiln for 40 years. I have the original manual. 

  3. 6 hours ago, Bill Kielb said:

    Ok, so there are two pressures we need to address so let’s see if I can describe it so it makes sense.
    The pressure needed at the burners has to be approximately 11 “ (INCHES, less than 1/2 psi). Regulators used for this purpose generally have a maximum inlet pressure of 10 psi and reduce it to 11” (Inches). Also the regulator must be capable of supplying  at least 290,000 btu, which means it will likely have a 3/4” diameter or larger outlet size at 11”” of pressure.

    Capacity problem

    1/2” diameter hose /pipe at 10 psi can easily carry 500,000 btu over many feet of distance

    3/4” diameter pipe / hose at 11” of pressure is needed to carry 500,000 btu 10-20 feet

    so the usual choice (most economical and lowest pressure for safety) is to hard pipe from the kiln with 3/4” pipe to where the gas bottle will be (within 20 ft of the kiln)  and install a two stage propane regulator at the propane tank.

    If we do that we only need ordinary gas pipe from the kiln to the bottle, a two stage regulator (economical) and a flexible connection from the pipe to the second stage regulator (pigtail).

    So a quick rough drawing

    BC934685-F197-4BB0-A37F-AE44B3456197.jpeg

    And some parts, economical regulator (horizontal mount)

     

    AA586317-5F26-4D3D-A1B9-03609655D790.jpeg

    A safe removable way to connect the regulator to the tank

    88D742F4-B4B8-402A-82FE-0AA9E03115AB.jpeg
     

    leaving a low pressure short pigtail to connect from the piping to the regulator which need to match 3/4” pipe thread on one end and whatever our regulator outlet thread is, once we pick a regulator.

    My problem was being unable to find a flexible hose with those diameters-- the pigtail you show is only 1/4 inch.  The only hose I have found that fits the kiln pipeand the tank is that Mr Heater hose.

  4. Hmmmm....the instructions in the manual seem so simple. Not!  The manual says to use a RV low pressure regulator and then just hook a 15 gallon tank up to the kiln. The problem is that the only propane hose that fits both the tank and the firing ring is a hose from Mr Heater that is one inch male on both ends.  All the low pressure regulators are set up to take either a quarter or three eights inch propane hose.....and so far, I have not found an adapter that will convert to attach said hose to the firing ring. It also seems that that size hose would not provide an adequate volume of gas.  I am hoping the Mr Heater hose has some kind of built in regulator.  Any information on how to hook up this ring would be most appreciated!   I currently have it out from under the kiln trying to make sure it works properly before putting the kiln back on top of it! 

     

    Marie

  5. Hi Neil,

    I have an older 286 Seattle Pottery kiln that just did a fantastic job of melting the plug and receptacle. Seattle Pottery suggested direct wiring to the panel because of the size of the kiln. My concern is having to disconnect it to replace the elements probably this summer. It draws 48 amps. Is direct wiring safer for a kiln this size? My kilns have their own panel right next to them. 

    Thanks!

    Marie

  6. Thanks Bill but these shelves I am using stay hot far longer than the pots. I think it's also the diameter of the bisque kiln-- 18 inches. I have to do a ring at a time preheat because it will heat up too fast. It has 3 inch brick. I need to start using the big kiln more for Bisquing too. The shelves for it are very porous-- not dense like the ones for the small guy. They don't stay as hot.

    I have a new shape for plates I am trying. Will see how this bisque goes. Also a new clay body for plates.

  7. As always, thank you Min for your response. I would be afraid of the rims cracking if I did the vertical stacking.  I have a new design that may bisque better. I finally figured out that the shelves are heating up faster than the pots.  I make shallow bowls with a deep foot that kept cracking. I finally started firing them on inverted saucers and it stopped.  With plates, all I could do was invert them.  I take a ridiculous amount of time pre-heating both fires. So I know it's not that. So using firebruck as spacers? Do I have that right?

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