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Mitzuuu89

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  1. thixotropy is the issue indeed.. increased it a little and that extends the drying time and allows it to flow more. for really large pieces the flow time was too little, and quickly built up in some areas.
  2. So i thinned it out to 1.4 SG, much thinner now, similar composition like you’re describing. I’ve increased the additive by 0.15%, i can feel it’s more thixotropic now, meaning that it bounces back more when you mix it. I’ll have to check tomorrow to see how much it settled, i assume it won’t settle too much. Here’s the test dips, 5 second dip. Not perfect.. the final result will look good for this matte clear glaze. eventually i want to add some color, smallest unevenness will show as a darker color and looks bad in my opinion. Trying to get the most even drip
  3. I made a super saturated solution and kept adding to a small batch. I didn’t notice a difference, i was looking for thixotropy, mainly how it swirls backwards after you mix it. epsom salts from my understanding change the charge of the clay particles in the glaze, i assume this glaze has little to no clay. Wasn’t able to find a full composition of this glaze on Ferro’s website.
  4. Hi, I’m firing earthenware at 1050 C using a commercial Ferro glaze. I can’t seem to find a fix for this nasty drip marks when dipping.. In this particular case the specific gravity was 1.5, too high, recommended is 1.4. but even at 1.4 i’m getting drip marks. My guess is the glaze is under flocculated, can someone correct me if i’m wrong? epsom salts probably don’t help, tried on a small batch, i guess theres little to no clay. i’ve made it thixotropix by adding an additive similar to OPTAPIX G1308 (binder and flow agent). that made it a little better but not good enough
  5. Hi, I need some advice on how to achieve text of a ceramic tile. Here’s and example for reference https://imgur.com/gallery/KjPkJSo Anyone can give some details on how to achieve this? I’m looking for the easiest way possible. Decalcomania is one way of achieving the result, but the process seems way too tedious and requires and extra firing.
  6. Now I have to figure out warping, first time firing porcelain and all pieces are bent in some way. Earthenware was way more forgiving
  7. Hey Min! I agree the leaching might be hard to stop since the glazes are different. Tried damping the stamp, that helps as less glaze is applied to that area. What i also found helpful is to blow a little while it’s still wet, to move the glaze from the edges. Here’s one the the latest batch. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1k6DSrvlxqguQUp9SqnZDchiFng-hwZEp/view?usp=drivesdk
  8. Hey Hulk! Thanks for the tips! I’ve been following Tony Hansen’s liner technique as well, it just takes alot of practice to get right. Great info! I’ve added some ceramic glue to improve the thixotropy, and carefully adjusted the specific gravity. I think it flows much better now. Also, my stamp used to stick to the clay, i’ve seen a post where people suggested any kind of oil, or WD40 to stop the stickiness. It worked like a charm, the detail on the stamp is amazing!
  9. In regards to specking, most likely i’ve contaminated my glaze. I suspect some rust from the mixer. Got to be more careful with this, costly mistake :D Practicing the liner technique, i might make a glaze fountain, that might be quicker and easier.
  10. Hey! I’m in the final stages oh my cappuccino cup project and i have 3 main blockers. need some tips 1. Specking - black dots on inner white glaze. Possible causes? 2. Liner glazing. Since i plan on dipping, can’t get the liner glazing techniques to work. The outer glaze is leaching in the inner glaze. Anyone doing liner glazes and have really good results? Mind sharing some tips? 3. Stamp details get lost with dipping. Glaze gathers in small edges in the stamp. Non uniform application of glaze. Glazing by spraying works better but it’s too much waste and time cons
  11. Forms are about 18 cm x 14 cm. And the walls need to be 1cm width
  12. hmm that's interesting, I would expect the wall thickness to depend on the desired ceramic wall thickness, no matter the size of the mold
  13. My molds are round shaped, with a wall thickness of about 3-4 cm. it’s ok for smaller molds, but for large ones they’re quite heavy. i’ve noticed after slip casting that water builds a round layer of about 1-1.5cm what’s a recommended wall thickness for slip casting molds?
  14. thanks for addresing my issue! i'll try to include some space in my next molds, and see what happens
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