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Julie P

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  1. Great explanations. Shame the gravel can't vibrate itself into the backyard. I had to do the same last year. Exhausting
  2. Love this Bill thank you so much. Julie
  3. Thank you very much Bill, this is all great stuff. I do want to try to be deliberate in decisions about kiln programming, rather than guessing and hoping for the best. However I do appreciate that there is no such thing as precision in ceramics. Thanks again for the helpful response
  4. Thanks Min, found the table on the Orton website. The reason I got confused is that the books I am using with the Orton tables in them don't mention this important fact. Linda Bloomfield's appendix in her glaze handbook implies that it is the pace of the total temperature rise, not just the last 100°C which would confuse a lot of beginners I think,
  5. Thank you Min, I saw this and Dave Finkelnberg's piece on Heatwork in the CAN pamphlet on electric kilns. It was that which started me on the idea of using graphs to adjust my kiln programming. I've noow changed approach and only compare the top 100 degrees in deciding on the top temp to set my controller with a given period of soaking and am going to try our the results. Really appreciate your help
  6. It is so good to hear about these experiences, which obviously take many years of ceramic practice. I really appreciate you giving me so much helpful information. Thanks again
  7. Thank you very much Pres Rhodes is my bible but I will look out for Hamer. Always good to have more ceramics books to read.
  8. Thanks Neil. That's really helpful. I'm just surprised that the heatwork before that stage doesn't impact the final result but I will keep on experimenting. Thanks again for your help.
  9. Thank you very much, that is most helpful. It doesn't make that at all clear in many of the Orton cone tables. I particularly wanted to compensate for the cooling cycle and I take it down 260 C/hr for the first 200 degrees C. Perhaps I'll try a faster crash for the first 100 degrees. Thanks again
  10. I have been trying to be scientific about arranging my firing schedule in a small electric kiln with a controller. I understand the concept of heatwork and use cones on all shelves in my kiln to monitor results. I soak at top temperature and fire down so want to compensate for the additional heatwork these procedures involve when I set the top temperature on my controller. I understood that this could be done by looking at the area under a graph of total heatwork, but having compared theoretical models using the Orton cone firing tables, if this is indeed the case, I must be missing somethin
  11. Thank you very much. I will look into available ball clays
  12. Hi High Bridge . I am also looking for an alternative to Goldart in the UK. Do you have any advice? Thank you
  13. Dear Community As everyone is self-isolating here in the UK, I'm encouraging my students and others to handbuild at home and I want to enable them to fire without a kiln in as simple a way as possible. It gets very frustrating for beginners to be unable to fire work and I want to maintain their enthusiasm. We are using the kurinuki method so that there will be no joints to break open. I know that there are some Japanese firing methods for low temp work using small containers but I can't find the videos again on You Tube. I've been trawling the internet but not come up with what I am
  14. Thanks for the help and support anyaway @High Bridge Pottery. REally appreciated and I'm sure I'll find something if I keep on looking
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