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Everything posted by CactusPots

  1. Everyone who works for that company should be required to say it that way. Maybe even get Dr Evil to record the auto greeting. Choice.
  2. Will the Neph Sy add gloss when the wash is pooled up in deep texture? I make my iron wash without a recipe, just adding a little of this and a little of that. No fluxes, but I do like the addition of magma.
  3. The problem with grinding glaze drips etc off standard alumina shelves is that the shelf is so much softer than the drip. Using a standard body grinder with an abrasive head is tough because the angle is awkward and the grinding wheel doesn't really cut all that well, so it takes some pressure and multiple passes. I got some quality diamond dremel bits from lapidary supply recently. They aren't all that cheap, but my understanding is that the diamond grit isn't just a surface layer, so it will retain it's cutting ability as it wears. This stuff goes through glaze drips right now. Pretty easy to grind only the drip and not leave extra holes in the shelf. Mostly use it for cleaning up drips on feet, but I just redid my bottom heavy shelves. Very nice.
  4. That's a really difficult skill, judging how much clay to make a specific size and shape that's not a frequently repeated product. I can somewhat do it after 25 years. I don't think it's anything that can be taught or even calculated. Human brain is really marvelous.
  5. It looks like the clay is working well for detail. Maybe it just needs a little time on a plaster slab to set up a little. Moisture content from suppliers is not consistent, so better get used to that.
  6. This topic perfectly illustrates the difference between a studio potter and a production potter. Most of us may very well be some degree between the two. The ability to recover from varying degrees of difficulties in itself is an acquired skill. For a production potter, the typical response is trash it and move on, but a studio potter is always pushing the envelope, so it's useful to have a bag of tricks.
  7. Have you ever tried to pick up a bone dry pot by the rim and pulled a big chunk out of the rim? Believe it or not, I have put that piece back in and fired to bisque and then to glaze and it can't be seen. Paper clay is a really valuable tool.
  8. It doesn't take very much, maybe 1/4 cup per 25 lbs. That would be for commercial softness going to the softest you really can throw. Easy to wedge and center. That's for the clay I use, Soldate 60 and Amador. If you're using B Mix, porcelain or something like that I'd think it might be different. You really have to experiment and see what you like. After pugging it soft, it really does benefit from a rest/age period of at least a month and more is better. Did you get the machine to pug out the clay? The hopper has to be really full, no big air voids.
  9. JB Weld has a product called Wood Weld. It has almost the exact color of a neutral stoneware such as Soldate. If you use a dremel to take the shine off, it really disappears. I buy it directly from JB Weld in the large squeeze tube size. 2 part.
  10. Would there be issues with cooling as well? I assume these are fired in a standard electric kiln, so reaching top temp and cooling could be pretty fast. Also, Peter doesn't state that the entire piece is 2", so I'm further assuming some parts are considerably thinner. This also can create issues in heating and cooling. You could solve the exploding part and still have an unworkable design due to cracking, I think.
  11. Like most answers: it depends. A picture would help. One thing it depends on is how runny the glaze is. You could avoid one issue and create another depending on the thickness, clay type, size of support in relation to the supported piece. Generally speaking, I'd give a qualified yes to your question. I use a lot of little slices of soft brick just like you're describing.
  12. I have no expertise here, but even as a DIYer, it doesn't seem like the parts line up correctly.
  13. Speaking of pop up canopies, I need to buy a couple. Primarily for camping. The 2 that I have are no longer water tight at all. One is screen sides for bug proof lazing and the other has solid sides. Well, it did before the bear ripped it up. Anyone research these and know what to look for? They vary in price a lot.
  14. Once in this mode with a consistent reading on the oxyprobe adjust each shutter 1/2 turn at a time for least amount of reduction on the oxyprobe. If I'm expecting the reduction to drop (?)with this fine tuning, then I'm adjusting the primaries out? The working assumption here is that the ideal position for the primaries is something greater than 50% open? I was thinking to run the primaries all the way in the way I have been doing and then evenly adjust them out to see what happens. I'm guessing that as I adjust them out, there will be a point when going any further effects no change. That would be the optimum point?
  15. I'll be in good position to learn more about the contributing factors to reduction. My next firing will be the second with the oxyprobe. I'm interested in your experience with venturi burners and adjusting primaries for reduction. I typically run them in almost to the point of disrupting the flame at the beginning of reduction, 1600F. One adjustment of gas and damper and then I leave them there all the way through the end of the firing. The kiln climbs in reduction to cone 10 with only small adjustments to the damper. I'm particularly interested in whether the primary adjustment really makes any difference. Without the oxygen meter, I've just been doing it this way because I always have.
  16. That's a trophy xray. He'll want that blown up to poster size, I'm sure. He won't need the poster to remember it when he's 60 though.
  17. Recently a friend showed me his crack conceal strategy that was about like this. It was similar to super glue and could be filled with whatever. The super liquid part allows it to be sucked into the crack. What was your plan for finishing? Glaze application, or something else?
  18. My bisque is all in a electric kiln, but at one time, a calcine effort caused a mess. I don't remember what I was calcining if it wasn't EPK. I had the idea that burning off organics would cause gas "burps" that blew the powder out.
  19. Awesome piece. I vote for continuing with whatever process you had planned and giving an "oh well" to the crack.
  20. Do you typically just fill a covered bisqued or green jar of some type with EPK and include it in a bisque fire to calcine? I recall trying it uncovered once and having the EPK all over the kiln.? Alumina oxide is just calcined alumina hydrate, right? The purpose of the calcining EPK is to eliminate shrinkage? Does alumina have a shrinkage factor as well?
  21. Do you typically just fill a covered bisqued or green jar of some type with EPK and include it in a bisque fire? I recall trying it uncovered once and having the EPK all over the kiln.? Alumina oxide is just calcined alumina hydrate, right? The purpose of the calcining EPK is to eliminate shrinkage? Does alumina have a shrinkage factor as well?
  22. When I listened to the squeal in the video, it sounded like a bearing to me. That reminded me that I did in fact replace the bearings in my Pacifica GT400. They were not sealed bearings, so I was able to do an upgrade by sourcing matching size sealed bearings from a bearing supply.
  23. Tip the wheel up and pull off the bottom cover. It's only 4 screws and some spacers. You will either have 4 O ring type belts or a V belt. Check and make sure the pulleys match. Mine didn't! If the belt(s) show any wear or cracking, that's the problem. I'm a big fan of the Pacifica wheels. Although I don't have a lot of experience with the other name brands, Brent, Shimpo, etc, I feel the pedal's control is the defining feature of any wheel. The Pacifica I have is really excellent in this way.
  24. My only problem is that the finished hump mold is too heavy. At 19 x 12 x 6 it's actually only about an inch or so of hydracal as a shell, hollow, but it still weighs 17.5 lbs. With 10-15 lbs of clay, it's uncomfortably heavy to flip over on the bat. My consultant (next door neighbor is a sculptor) suggests pour able foam. It's like the stuff that comes in the can for sealing window cracks from Home Depot. That stuff could work also, but there are denser materials available from Pour On. I don't want the open cell nature I've seen with the canned stuff. I'll just have to remake the slump mold off my current mold and then pour the new one in foam. Kind of expensive, around $100 in materials. Could be worth it. Needs more research.
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