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About BeyondVagabond

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  1. Thank you again, Min! This is invaluable I wonder: what say you about low fire under glazes on mid fire clay? I'm guessing it is a matter of testing them on sample shards in kiln. Of course, I can also buy mid-fire underglazes, I'm just not very familiar with which might be a superior brand to consider. Thank you again!
  2. Hello Sam! Thank you, as well for this additional information! Yes, of the plates, buttons, and decorative spoons I have made, I have glazed the ENTIRETY of the piece, inside and out, including the bottoms, and fire them on stilts. My understanding, then, is that stoneware is more vitrified and so would be fine if the bottoms were unglazed (such as the bottom of a pie dish)? Wow, I really cannot see myself making something for the stove top, that sounds like quite a feat! I'm thinking ovenware: pie plates, small casserole dishes. And then platters and chargers, and teapots and mugs. I am not adverse at all to changing clays or glazes, I just started with low fire clays and have an abundance of the low fire clay, underglazes and glazes and was hoping to utilize them somehow. If it definitely makes more sense for stoneware clay and midfire glazes, I can try, though now that I think of it, I guess it's not possible to work low fire underglazes on higher fire clay (yikes, sorry to throw on another question to this thread). I certainly appreciate this guidance. To give you some idea of my work, here is a picture of some hand-scupted buttons. I mostly sculpt my wares, or throw and and add a scuptural element to the piece. They are all painted in fairy tale style with underglazing, and then glazed. This is true of all of the work I do, so not sure if this would add a complication in stoneware? I'm sure those would all need to be glazed to protect the underglaze in any case, but I'm guessing the tighter midfire clay would still be a better choice for foodware.
  3. Hello Min! Wow, thank you for taking the time to answer me in such a thorough, thoughtful manner. I HAD heard that the Amaco White clay (which I AM using) goes up to cone 3, but was told by another ceramic artist that it would just likely be better to go ahead and purchase a stoneware clay or clay body that goes up to cone 6 is this is the standard for less porous clay? So I never bothered to try to go up to cone 3 with the Amaco. I don't know whether it would just make more sense to purchase the "proper" clay instead? I tend to underglaze painted art on my pottery work (Duncan CoverCoat, which fires at 06) and then glaze with Duncan Envision Clear glaze, using two coats. I'm not sure how well that might mitigate any leaching of water, and of course, I know that crazing would be a problem. I've been lucky to avoid that so far, but I'm not sure what other techniques to use to better the process. Thanks again, and hoping to hear any and all additional advice for anyone who would be so kind to offer it!
  4. Greetings! I'm a fairly novice potter who has made figurative pottery with some functionality using Amaco Low Fire White, which fires to 04. These are mostly ring dishes and candle holders. I've recently been looking to make food safe pottery such as plates, teapots, and pie plates, but have been given conflicting reports on how to make them fully food safe. I know that low fire clay is somewhat porous, but would a good quality glaze make them 100% food safe? I also have heard that pie plates and other bakeware may be prone to thermal shock if just stuck into a hot oven, and then contradicting information that well glazed, low fire pots tend to have less of this issue than say, stoneware. I'm not sure, and would love any insight! Thank you!
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