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Skip

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Everything posted by Skip

  1. Skip

    Err 1

    Thank you both. This is all new to me so I appreciate your valuable insight. Do I need to hold at cone 04 for a certain amount of time?
  2. Skip

    Err 1

    After a long absence due to medical reasons I am now in the process of changing the elements. The elements took hours to remove since they were brittle and came out in one inch sections or less most of the time. I am shocked they were still in one piece and could fire at all. I think I have finally gotten to the bottom of the problem. I will do a bisque fire tomorrow unless there is some procedure I should undergo since my elements are brand new. I also have replaced the relays and the thermocouples. I hope the kiln works after all of this.
  3. The bowl in the back is mine. What is your clay short refer to?
  4. LT, While Since I am making ragged rims now I may try to make one tonight to see if I can get it all the way around the bowl. As you said, when I know more I may want this to happen. Right now I am working on smooth lines, thinner bases, and symmetry.
  5. Pres, that certainly could be. I’ll have to see tonight if that is happening.
  6. Mark, thanks so much for your advice. I have definitely not been compressing my lip after each upward pull.
  7. Jeff, I am being pretty careful not to let the clay fold over, but I appreciate the thought and will double check when I clay tonight to make sure I am not doing this.
  8. Johnny, that is a great idea. I had to crop the picture, I just installed a photo resize so now more of the bowl can be seen. I wish the “problem” circled the whole rim but it does not. I may still fire it with the castle wall motif, but since it does not I may try to trim it to even out the bowl. I am still very new to this, but I absolutely love attempting pottery.
  9. No the lip of the rim is splitting as I pull it up and out. I agree with what the others have said that I am not compressing the rim and I am definitely going too fast.
  10. Thanks to both of you for your help. I will try what you suggest.
  11. I tried attaching a picture but the draconian size limit has defeated me. Let me give it another go. Thanks for your help by the way.
  12. I am fairly new to pottery, and I am having an issue. When I throw a bowl about half the time the rim is split and jagged. What am I doing wrong?
  13. I was going to delete this since I resolved the issue. I’m not sure how to delete it or if that is even an option.
  14. The new thermocouples I bought are slightly longer than the ones I am replacing. Should I extend them slightly out the back of the holder, add washers to increase the outside clearance, or is it okay for them to touch the end of the sleeve they are in?
  15. Skip

    Err 1

    I’ll order some more tomorrow and wire it all back up when they arrive. Thanks so much for your help Neil. I’ll keep throwing pottery in the meantime.
  16. Skip

    Err 1

    Could this be the issue? I have nothing to go by, so I would love for others to way in, but these could be the problem I am having.
  17. Skip

    Err 1

    Thanks for the vote of confidence! I’ll see what I can do.
  18. Skip

    Err 1

    Neilestrick, thank you so much for this informatuion. I had no idea about the ability to see the total number of firings. I know the elements were replaced two years ago so I don’t think it will be able to give me the number I need, but it will still be interesting to see the total number of firings. I plan on tracking future firings in the way that you indicate. I have a multi-meter on the way from Amazon, so that will give me lots of good info when it arrives. I have the original manual so that is also a help. I will find a good kiln tech if I can’t easily detect and correct the problem myself. I wish you were closer to me. I am in Maryland, and it looks like you are in Illinois.
  19. Skip

    Err 1

    Hitchmss, Thanks so much for your reply. I used the quick-fire slow glaze cone 6 program so no worries on that account. The literature says it should fire in 7.53 hours but that may be lengthened by a full kiln, but certainly not to 13 hours with an error message thrown in. I have a multi-meter on the way from Amazon and will check the elements’ resistance when it comes. The kiln was wired by a master electrician who did it to code with 6 gauge wire into a 60 amp breaker, so that is not the issue. The idea of a local kiln repair technician is a good idea, but obviously will cost a bit. You get what you pay for though, and in the same vein as hiring an electrician to wire the kiln, this may be the way to go. I will definitely call the tecnician if the coil test you suggest and the multi-meter testing don’t turn up an easy to fix problem, and may call one in either case since I am new to this. I am excited to have a home studio. I am enjoyong reading Hesselberth’s book Mastering Cone 6 Glazes.
  20. I recently acquired a used 15 year old or so L&L E23t (2.5 inch brick) kiln with a Dynatrol. I have done three bisque fires (cone 06) and three slow glaze fires (cone 6). The bisque fires have gone well but the glaze firings took 9 hours (with just test tiles since I mixed my own glaze), 10.5 hours (with 8 pieces inside) and 13 hours with an error message and stopped program with a full kiln. The max temp reached in the last firing was 2150 or so. I did a paper test and all the elements are working. The person I bought the kiln from said that the elements were two years old. I am brand new to the pottery world so I did not think to ask how many times it had been fired. Should I change elements, relays, and thermocouples to get a fresh start or is there another reason that I am having trouble hitting the top temp? Any insight would be great.
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