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Liam V

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About Liam V

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  1. Yes, I have the light speckle clay as well which looks like that disc of clay. It's the same as the clay on the right side of the image I posted.
  2. It's called - Clayworks Clay : Mid Fire Chris Dark Speckle 30# I was under the impression that I could achieve that dark brown in oxidation, as the storeperson I was discussing it with earlier in the year knew I use an electric kiln. I also believe it only vitrifies at cone 6.
  3. I've been testing out this midfire clay, but whenever I fire it to cone 6, it turns out a very different colour. It's suppose to look like the dark brown cup on the left side of the image but instead turns out a much lighter colour. I've been told that it could be the firing schedule and that higher temperatures burn out the colour. Does anyone have any experience with this and could offer me some advice? I'm currently using a default program on the vc6-bartlett with an olympic kiln.
  4. I have developing glazes by Greg Daly and The Handbook of Glaze Recipes by Linda Bloomfield; I'll check out those recommendations as well, thanks!
  5. Stumbled upon this article when looking up natural glaze sources https://materialdistrict.com/article/ceramic-glaze-human-urine/ so...... what cone can I fire my distilled urine to?
  6. If I were to add 5% sodium carbonate to this: https://glazy.org/recipes/22327 Would it work? Or would this require the removal of aluminium oxide, in an attempt to balance out the O3? Or could I simply treat the sodium carbonate as a colorant without removing anything else frm the recipe?
  7. @Magnolia Mud Research Thanks for the tip, I love hearing about materials I can find in the home cupboard that make magic on my pots. @Callie Beller Diesel I actually fired it at cone 10 oxidation in an electric kiln. It's a commercial glaze and turns that orange colour directly around where the glaze is applied. I'd like to mimic that flashing in other colours. I'm curious to how you all learn about the indiviual effects of materials used in glazes, are there any books with such information or is this something you discover yourselves over time. I've been teaching myself ever
  8. @oldlady @neilestrickI had heard that Olympic kilns were not of the best quality but was unable to find any other top-loader brands in Australia that did not require importation from America. @HulkI honestly have not had much trouble with the kiln, although the people who sold it to me told me the kiln did not require ventilation as it is so small (which I felt a little bit skeptical of). It is situated in the garage, so I'm not too worried about the fumes anyway. I'm probably just going to ignore the rust for now, and demote this kiln to a bisque fire kiln once I sell enough pottery
  9. I am singularly obsessed with glazes that somehow cause clay to appear 'toasted' on its edges. Could anyone tell me what ingredient in a glaze causes this or how I could emulate it? Glazy recipes are much appreciated!
  10. @Hulk I have the Olympic MAS1818HE. Just checked, I can scratch the rust off with my finger, as it is raised from the surface of the kiln. It is also magnetic. Am I dealing with inferior quality materials? When would it be appropriate to invoke my kiln warranty?
  11. My kiln is still very new, I have only owned it for a few months; your kiln is what I see in my nightmares @JohnnyK I'll see if I can find a high heat chrome spray, thank you!
  12. Did a firing with some pieces that were a tiny bit moist (was getting too close to an order deadline), ended up with rusting outside the uppermost peephole and on the lid, as well as a few exploded pots. How do you guys clean up rust? Scrub with vinegar and leave it, or cover it with some sort of rust resist? If I leave the rust there, is it likely to worsen over time? Cheers guys P.s. I've added some photos, please enjoy my skinny legs.
  13. I've recently come upon a video demonstrating that you can make your own whiting or calcium carbonate by bisque firing egg shells. I've tried this myself and now have a jar of fine white powder which I am keen to test in a predominantly whiting glaze recipe. I love the thought that I can make an attractive glaze out of materials that I can gather myself! I was wondering if any of you have any nifty ways that one could make their own glaze materials for cheap or by recycling household leftovers (Perhaps even materials that can be dug from the ground and refined). Bonus side question:
  14. I didn't realise that most people fired to cone 5 and cone 6 until it was too late. I bought about 200 kgs of cone 9-10 clay before I actually had a kiln. Now that I've got a kiln, I've been told that it can be very hard on the elements with that kind of temperature I believe I only have witness cones for 05, as that was the temperature the technician I should do the calibration firing for. @Hulk were you saying that specific gravity can influence whether a glaze crazes or not? I never actually measured mine, I used Jon the Potter's methods of unscientifically measuring specific gravity.
  15. I haven't noticed any bloating, the glazes look fine as far as I can tell, however I have very little experience with kilns and glaze; I've spent the last year doing wheel throwing only. These are cone 10 glazes and clay bodies, once I get through everything I have left, I'm going to swap to cone 5 or 6. I'm hoping I'll lucky dip on a combination that has the same shrinkage rate, not too confident with changing the temperature offset on my kiln just yet.
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