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Liam V

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About Liam V

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  1. I have developing glazes by Greg Daly and The Handbook of Glaze Recipes by Linda Bloomfield; I'll check out those recommendations as well, thanks!
  2. Stumbled upon this article when looking up natural glaze sources https://materialdistrict.com/article/ceramic-glaze-human-urine/ so...... what cone can I fire my distilled urine to?
  3. If I were to add 5% sodium carbonate to this: https://glazy.org/recipes/22327 Would it work? Or would this require the removal of aluminium oxide, in an attempt to balance out the O3? Or could I simply treat the sodium carbonate as a colorant without removing anything else frm the recipe?
  4. @Magnolia Mud Research Thanks for the tip, I love hearing about materials I can find in the home cupboard that make magic on my pots. @Callie Beller Diesel I actually fired it at cone 10 oxidation in an electric kiln. It's a commercial glaze and turns that orange colour directly around where the glaze is applied. I'd like to mimic that flashing in other colours. I'm curious to how you all learn about the indiviual effects of materials used in glazes, are there any books with such information or is this something you discover yourselves over time. I've been teaching myself everything from home and the books I've bought haven't really given me information like that. https://glazy.org/recipes/28291 This glaze contains both sodium carbonate and potassium, is it likely to flash or does the presence of these compounds not always predicate flashing?
  5. @oldlady @neilestrickI had heard that Olympic kilns were not of the best quality but was unable to find any other top-loader brands in Australia that did not require importation from America. @HulkI honestly have not had much trouble with the kiln, although the people who sold it to me told me the kiln did not require ventilation as it is so small (which I felt a little bit skeptical of). It is situated in the garage, so I'm not too worried about the fumes anyway. I'm probably just going to ignore the rust for now, and demote this kiln to a bisque fire kiln once I sell enough pottery to purchase a better one.
  6. I am singularly obsessed with glazes that somehow cause clay to appear 'toasted' on its edges. Could anyone tell me what ingredient in a glaze causes this or how I could emulate it? Glazy recipes are much appreciated!
  7. @Hulk I have the Olympic MAS1818HE. Just checked, I can scratch the rust off with my finger, as it is raised from the surface of the kiln. It is also magnetic. Am I dealing with inferior quality materials? When would it be appropriate to invoke my kiln warranty?
  8. My kiln is still very new, I have only owned it for a few months; your kiln is what I see in my nightmares @JohnnyK I'll see if I can find a high heat chrome spray, thank you!
  9. Did a firing with some pieces that were a tiny bit moist (was getting too close to an order deadline), ended up with rusting outside the uppermost peephole and on the lid, as well as a few exploded pots. How do you guys clean up rust? Scrub with vinegar and leave it, or cover it with some sort of rust resist? If I leave the rust there, is it likely to worsen over time? Cheers guys P.s. I've added some photos, please enjoy my skinny legs.
  10. I've recently come upon a video demonstrating that you can make your own whiting or calcium carbonate by bisque firing egg shells. I've tried this myself and now have a jar of fine white powder which I am keen to test in a predominantly whiting glaze recipe. I love the thought that I can make an attractive glaze out of materials that I can gather myself! I was wondering if any of you have any nifty ways that one could make their own glaze materials for cheap or by recycling household leftovers (Perhaps even materials that can be dug from the ground and refined). Bonus side question: Does anyone have any simple glaze recipes between cone 6 and 10 that use whiting and not much else? Bonus Bonus side question: I have also found very small particulates of alluvial gold (may also be pyrite) as well as a small amount of magnetite, any ideas for these? I was thinking of mixing the magnetite into a clay body to get a speckled appearance but am worried about the suitability of magnetite when a functional piece is placed into a microwave.
  11. I didn't realise that most people fired to cone 5 and cone 6 until it was too late. I bought about 200 kgs of cone 9-10 clay before I actually had a kiln. Now that I've got a kiln, I've been told that it can be very hard on the elements with that kind of temperature I believe I only have witness cones for 05, as that was the temperature the technician I should do the calibration firing for. @Hulk were you saying that specific gravity can influence whether a glaze crazes or not? I never actually measured mine, I used Jon the Potter's methods of unscientifically measuring specific gravity.
  12. I haven't noticed any bloating, the glazes look fine as far as I can tell, however I have very little experience with kilns and glaze; I've spent the last year doing wheel throwing only. These are cone 10 glazes and clay bodies, once I get through everything I have left, I'm going to swap to cone 5 or 6. I'm hoping I'll lucky dip on a combination that has the same shrinkage rate, not too confident with changing the temperature offset on my kiln just yet.
  13. @Babs The v6-cf comes with a few default schedules, I used the one labelled 'fast glaze' so I'm not too sure about the firing schedule. @neilestrick would I be fine with foregoing the offest and just leaving it as is? I've noticed all my pieces crazed, but I think that's related to the clay body used rather than the slight overfiring.
  14. So I recently got a brand new olympic kiln and the guy who sold it helped me do a calibration firing. I believe these are cone 05 witness cones and the kiln was fired to cone 05. I'm still waiting on their response, but in the mean time, I was wondering if anyone here could give me an expert opinion. They look overfired to me, however, since this testing I've done a bisque firing to cone 06 which seems fine so far and a cone 10 glaze firing (It only reached 1270 degrees celcius before completing; I think cone 10 is closer to 1300 degrees celcius). I've also noticed that I can see the heat inbetween the gaps of the kiln lid and around the plugs, not sure if kilns are meant to be completely sealed (I imagine this is why my kiln didn't quite make it to cone 10 before giving up) I have yet to open the glaze firing as its all still cooling down. The first image is of the cone from the bottom shelf and the second is of the cone on the middle shelf.
  15. So I ended up trying the advice on here and fired some greenware in a barrel. I didn't have enough wood to keep the fire going more than two hours but the clay is vitrified enough that it doesn't dissolve in water. This is a stoneware body and it works quite well as a planter. Definitely smells charcoally though
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