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Everything posted by tinypieces

  1. I made a bunch of napkin rings (low fire cone 06 clay) that I'm now wondering, how the heck, after they're glazed all around, do I situate them IN the kiln for the glaze fire. Would you put them on stilts? Hang them? (If so, how?) They don't really have a bottom.
  2. Thanks Tony aka Hulk for taking the time to reply. To answer your question, yes, the glazes I'm using are low fire cone 06. I appreciate your feedback, the suggestions and the links to all the technical information. It's a little more than my newbie brain can handle but I'm glad to have it for the future reference because... after all... who knows when and where I'll be venturing next! Thanks again!
  3. I set up my home studio about a year ago using only commercial glazes. I have a couple of questions regarding them that hopefully you can help with. My first question is... I love the look of a satin glaze and have used Duncan SN351 for a while with inconsistent results. I wonder what I am doing wrong. While it's not every time or eve on every piece in a firing but some pieces comes out looking cloudy or milky :-( Can it be the way I apply the glaze ie, brushing it on too thick or not thick enough? (I usually apply 2-3 coats) Do I not allow the glaze to dry completely between coats? Could I be applying too much pressure when brushing it on? Do I brush it too much (meaning going over it too much)? Then, I suppose something could be happening in the kiln too! Any thoughts or advice to minimize and avoid this from happening would be appreciated because whenever I use that glaze now I feel like it's a crap shoot and I don't like those odds. My second question is about the consistency of a glaze when I open the jar. Sometimes the glazes are watery and very easy to brush on. Other times the glazes are super thick and rather dry making them next to impossible to use. I wonder what can I do to make a glaze more brush-able without compromising the glaze chemistry? Maybe it's been sitting in a warehouse for a long time? Anyway, I've reconstituted underglazes by adding water without any problems but I wonder if that's such a good idea with a metallic glaze such as Duncan's Antique Pewter (SY1024). Thanks in advance for all your wisdom! Andryea
  4. Where do you get the speedball from?
  5. I have been using Amaco's jet black velvet underglaze for a while now and would like to experiment with some others/colors. I generally use a clear glaze over but want to experiment with a matte glaze over. What are your favorite brands and why?
  6. Let me preface this with I don't have a whole lot of experience using a slab roller. I've used an exfriend's manual floor model on several occasions with few problems. She would always use plastic under and over the clay which I liked because it kept the canvas clean, it minimized distortion and made it easy to lift and move the slabs. Now I have my own 16" Bailey table top model. I tried doing the same thing but have no success because the clay doesn't feed properly. The plastic and the clay slip away and don't get fed through while the canvas and Masonite boards move through the rollers. I've tried putting the plastic only under the clay and a slab mat on top of the clay but that didn't work either. Is the only solution to put the clay on the canvas? How do you keep the canvas clean? I feel like such an idiot. What am I doing wrong?
  7. @hitchmiss thanks for the replying tip. I like that you think I apply 2-3 coats of underglaze! Maybe I should but I don't. Mainly because I don't think I need to and I definitely don't want to see underglaze uneccesarily going down the drain... but I do not. It's usually only 1 coat. Can you water down underglaze too much? Like maybe there wasn't enough pigment laid down in that line and it poofed out? It's curious because I use these very same techniques, underglazes and clear glazes on two other clay bodies (Standard 103 and 105) without anything like this happening Why do you think it happens with just this clay body?
  8. Hi Neil, I don't know if you saw my response to your post because I didn't put it here. To answer your questions... the edges are not sharp, they are rounded.
  9. Thanks. Since this has happened before in separate firings, what would you suggest I do differently to avoid this from happening again? I have another piece glazed just like this waiting to be fired so I guess I'll just cross my fingers for now.
  10. Thank you Min for your comments but I don't think the points you raised are the source of the problem. I'm pretty sure the underglaze was not applied too thick because I like using it like a stain and water it down a bit. Watching it wash down the drain is too expensive. So I'm confident that the UG wasn't too thick. And this piece, dried for at least a week before I glazed it so that is not likely the problem either.
  11. Thank you all so much. I do not have any knowledge or experience with the chemistry of clay and glazes so I appreciate what you're sharing! Benzine, I wonder what you mean by contaminated... the clay? the underglaze? the clear glaze? Bill Kielb, I've taken a few more close ups. They may not be the same exact spots you indicated on your photo. I'm not sure you can see much more and I can't seem to get any closer. Neil, the edges of the bare spots are definitely not sharp, they are more rounded. liambsaw, youare speaking a foreign language! I sorry, I don't think I know what a stained slip is or an engobe and you completely lost me on the flocculated and Fishsauce slip, haha. Although I am really curious it being a lot cheaper than underglaze. Too, I prefer to incise the lines vs raised.
  12. Yay! Here is a photo. Can you see the problems well enough?
  13. Can I get some help? Every time I try to post an image I get an error message saying “You are only allowed to upload 1,003.52kb.”
  14. If I could figure out how to attach the correct size photo you could see the what I’m gonna describe... Duncan Clear Satin (SN351) glaze is not running into all the incised lines after the recommended number of coats and fired to cone 06.. It looked completely covered. This has now happened a couple of times and I’m not sure what’s going wrong. The clay is Standard 528. The design was inscised then bisque fired to 06. It was then stained using Amaco velvet underglaze (V361)...allowed to dry before applying the Duncan clear glaze as per mfg. I’ve used this technique for a long time with other clay bodies and this never happens, no problems. Any idea what’s going on? Is it the clay? The glaze? My technique? The firing? I could use some help. (And how to upload the right kind and size image).
  15. Thank you. I totally get that and I most definitely will continue making new things but I am still curious to know if and how one would repair damage to leather hard or even bone dry work. Is it even possible? Is there a way? What is it? I wanted to attach a photo of this broken piece but there is a size limitation on the photo . I assume it too big (taken with my iPhone) but I don't know how to reduce it :-(
  16. This is a shot in the dark and I should probably just let it go to the clay gods but it doesn’t hurt to ask you beautiful, more experienced ceramicists. I accidentally broke the edge of a small dish I made and wonder is there any way I could repair it before I bisque fire it?
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