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colekeller

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About colekeller

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  • Birthday 01/30/1996

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    Seattle, WA
  1. @neilestrick Disregard my last message - the blade is made of carbide steel. It is still, though, coated with a friction reducing rim coating. I will purchase an all steel blade and see if this solves the problem.
  2. @neilestrick I just checked the blade I was using and it is in fact coated with carbide. Do you think this is most likely the cause?
  3. @neilestrick You bring up some really good points. I didn't even think about the coating on the blade. I'm using a blade intended for wood with metal I believe, which makes me think it likely is coated. I'm now thinking that that is likely the problem. Also, regarding dust, yes it's certainly an issue. I do work outdoors when doing this but as you said it's still not an ideal solution. I'm going to try this on some leather-hard pieces and see if that helps with dust while still avoiding warping. Thanks so much this clears a lot up! Cole
  4. @Babs Thanks for the reply! I don't think it's fine clay dust that is causing the problem, because even when I saw these by hand the problem does not occur (even though there is dust created by cutting the sprue) I certainly will try fettling the glaze if the problem persists but I'm hoping I can fix the root cause of the problem, because it's only happening when using the miter saw and on the spot where the saw touches the clay. I'm worried that even with fettling the glaze is incompatible on these spots due to foreign bodies. Cole
  5. Hey all, Lately I've been ramping up my slip-casting production and have been looking for a better way to cut off the sprue after the small vase is completely dry. I wait for the ware to be bone dry because this way it's rigid and I won't deform anything. I have found a solution in a miter/chop saw. It cuts the sprue perfectly every time and is super quick. The only problem is that when I dip glaze the objects small bubbles immediately appear on the surface where the saw blade cut the clay. It's as if the blade is leaving something on the surface that is not compatible with the glaze. This confuses me, though, because after cutting the sprue I sponge the ware in that exact location to remove the sharp edges and then the wares get bisqued. How could it be that something from the saw blade is still on the surface after all that? Could it be that the blade is burnishing the clay from friction? Still wouldn't the sponging fix that problem? I have tried multiple glazes and the problem persists, and the bubbles only happen where the blade touched. I have attached a photo of the wares after glaze firing. If anyone has any experience with problems similar to this or thinks they may have an answer as to what's causing it I would greatly appreciate your thoughts! I am hoping to continue being able to use the miter saw because it is dramatically faster and more precise than what I can do with a hand saw. I intend to thoroughly clean the saw blade and run a test but I'm afraid that if motor oil or lubricant are the cause of the problem those materials will continue to find their way to the outside of the blade due to the centrifugal action of the saw. Thanks again to this community for all the help, Cole
  6. @glazenerd Wow 90-100F that is much higher than expected. Thank you so much for the explanation that really helps! Do you think the ambient temperature of the room that the object is drying in matters? I'm assuming that all the particles would be aligned relatively soon after the object is done casting so could I dry the wares in any temp room within reason? Thanks again for the help, Cole
  7. Hey all, I was informed a while back that most commercial slips are deflocculated with Darvan, which can cause adverse effects (warping) on the resulting wares depending on the temperature of the room in which casting occurs. I have found in my testing that this is certainly the case, trying my best to control all other variables within reason only changing the temp of the room. Cold temps certainly seem to increase warping. What I'm wondering is if anyone has any ideas regarding what the ideal temperature would be for slipcasting with darvan in it. I am trying to minimize warping as much as possible without having to heat my workspace to unnecessarily high temps. I can't seem to find anything about this online and would appreciate any direction greatly! Cheers, Cole
  8. Also I plan on using Mayco dry glazes, I'm not sure if that is of significance. I know that this is about the chemistry of the glazes and stains and realize that there may be specific colors that react with other colors, but I am wondering if there is generally an overarching issue with glaze/stained clay compatibility (if that makes any sense :D)
  9. Hello all! I am hoping someone can shed light on the subject of using commercial high fire glazes (^6) on porcelain bisque that has been pigmented with mason stains. Will there be compatibility issues? Basically my goal is to stain the clay body with complementary colors to the glazes that I intend to use. I can't stand the look of colorful glazes on white clay, and with the design of my objects it would be more blaring than just a ring on the bottom. I intend to run tests but the dry glazes are a decent investment so I wanted to run it by you folks before I bought a bunch of stains and glazes. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Cheers, Cole
  10. @Chilly the object will be hollow with one opening (at the top of attached photo). Thanks for commenting
  11. @JohnnyK hey Johnny sorry just saw your comment. The form will be a 3d printed item, and it must be 4 pieces due to undercuts in the object (the previously attached photo is a rudimentary cross cut of the more complicated object). But yes - I will ideally be casting many of these. Thanks for the comment
  12. Hey @liambesaw, that is a good point. My only concern with this idea would be if the sprue fully casts shut won't the slip still need to be replenished as it is absorbed? Or would that not be a problem? Thanks for the response! Cole
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