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Kristina Vatne

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  1. I just purchased a 24" tabletop photo studio kit to help me with my Etsy site, only to find that the included lights are too dim for even a sunny afternoon in a Tillamook, Oregon pottery studio. I plan to order better lights, and this time I want to be SURE they'll be bright enough for me to showcase my work. I've been pottering for over a decade, but this is the first time I've been serious about photographing/ selling my work, so any and all feedback would be very much appreciated. Here's the studio I purchased: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RDQ99HY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_
  2. Would this work for cone 6 midrange stoneware? Or is it strictly for high fire?
  3. For as long as I've been working with clay, I've had a great big blind spot about wedging. Regardless of whether I wedge using the spiral or ram's head method, I often end up with muddy bubble wrap rather than nicely compacted, even textured stoneware goodness. I don't know if I'm just not doing it enough (I tend to stop well before 50 kneads per direction) or if I'm putting too much or too little pressure on the clay when wedging or if there's another magic secret to this process that has eluded me so far. I'm also wondering if I really need to wedge clay if I'm pulling it straight ou
  4. We recently did a test firing of some cone 6 clays in our old-time Skutt kiln (model 1081 or 181?) to cone 04. The pyrometric bar in the kilnsitter melted to a perfect u/v shape & turned off the kiln, but the 04 witness cone we placed near our test tiles apparently didn't melt at all. Also, the test tiles in this kiln sound less bell-like when we tap them against each other than the ones in our Skutt 818 programmable kiln. 1) How do you tell when a piece is completely bisqued? 2) (Assuming our test tiles really aren't completely bisqued like I think they probably aren't), what sh
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