Jump to content

shawnhar

Members
  • Posts

    489
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by shawnhar

  1. I feel dumb for not leaving a little extra but long story short, I had to move my studio and must have smashed something against it and weakened the connection. My first firing at the new place and bisque never even made it to temp.

     How important is that little insulator? I have a connector and could crimp it back on but not with the insulator in place. The resistance shows the element is still good and I could replace the insulator next time I do elements.

     

    What say ye?

    20240303_133258.jpg.442573d0a64558ea1eba87d4c4360832.jpg

  2. On 11/14/2023 at 9:41 PM, Denice said:

    I learned my lessons on  making pottery as a business instead of a artistic hobby.   I designed a set of dishes for a friends severely disabled daughter.   Before I know it I had calls from other families to buy a set.   I already owned a wallpaper store so I didn't have a lot of spare time and they would get it before the next holiday.   I ended up with demanding customers and suddenly my artistic hobby became work.    I got the same feeling when I taught a summer throwing class,  I wanted to be working in my own studio not teaching.    Denice

    Demanding customers require high prices. Someone wants custom anything from me, I tell them they won't like the price and are not allowed to complain.

    -You get what you get and deal with it, and pay up front, and wait 6-8 weeks, filters out the people I don't want to make stuff for anyway.

     - Private lessons are great for me, but if you won't trim your nails I will ghost you, will not deal with that.

  3. On 10/2/2023 at 8:04 PM, Ben xyz said:

    (trying to avoid small glaze bubbles from forming if dipped)

    I have used a rubber tool (looks like a pencil with a rubber tip) to smooth out these kinds of bubbles/holes after glaze dries. I've also used a paint brush to dab a tiny amount of wet glaze in the holes.... have to do it sometimes if your finger can't get in there to smooth it out.

  4. 13 hours ago, neilestrick said:

    A 15-20 minute hold equals 1 cone hotter, so yet, the hold will increase heat work on the rest of the kiln, too. I would first try loading the middle of the kiln tighter and loading the top looser. Put low mass pieces up top, like wide bowls.  If that doesn't work, I would try firing a cone lower and holding for 15-20 minutes to achieve the next cone.

    This is what worked for me. I use 12 to 17 minutes based on how dense the load is. I also use an offset like Pres mentioned.

  5. Depends on what is being made.

    Something like sponge holders I can push 40 at a time, but I no longer have drying issues. I can take pots off the bat still pretty wet, wrap a dozen items on a drywall wareboard, wrap it in cheap trash bag, put a towel over it, and it's good for 5 days. 

    I wrap my mugs like this too, and the handles, so nothing dries out as I am working on it. 

    I throw as much as I can, then work on a dozen or so at a time, but I like to cut all my sponge holders at once, or handles on all the mugs in one go, so I will limit the number to the amount of time I can give in the next few days after throwing. 

    20230408_175636.jpg.17557f84f78ebfe188d3e41c801cf084.jpg

    20230408_175858.jpg

    20230408_175915.jpg

  6. I am not an artist so I can't speak to being creatively stuck, but every time I do chores that keep me from potting, like sieve glaze, deep clean, deal with reclaim, etc... I think about all kinds of new things I "want" to do in the studio, lol.

  7. On 1/6/2023 at 3:31 PM, Min said:

    It's a bit of a weird feeling when a customer almost apologies for buying a second, saying something along the lines of they prefer 2nds as they have more character. 

    I think Pres is right from a technical standpoint, the same way a guitar player can hear the flaws in a pink floyd solo, but no one that does not play would ever even hear it, and many people tell me they prefer flaws in pottery because it shows the maker's mark and is truly one of a kind.

     

    I have started leaving some little scuffs and marks in my greenware for this reason, before I would sponge them all smooth.

  8. On 11/21/2022 at 2:46 PM, marco said:

    Hi there!
    I love doing ceramics because it reminds me of sculpture I've done for art. Do you guys think is it possible to make a living? What do we need in order to do it??

    You need skill, drive, passion and discipline, and the ability to market yourself.

     

    I have a friend that has been making a living playing guitar for decades, but he plays the songs the crowd wants to hear, not his favorite music.

    I would have never imagined I would be making so many damn spoon rests. I thought I would be selling vases, lol.

  9. Mine had the same issue recently, I took the mechanical bits of the foot pedal apart and cleaned everything, including using "mass airflow sensor" cleaner from auto parts store in the potentiometer and moving it through the whole range of motion. Don't forget to put a little grease back where metal parts rub, like that gear.

    Pots get dirty and create contact where they are not supposed to, and the wheel keeps on turning. Lots of people replace them but I play guitar and soldering new ones is a PITA so I always clean them first, works 80% of the time.

  10. On 8/14/2022 at 7:43 PM, Min said:

    In a recent thread the subject of drying less than bone dry pots in the kiln came up in which the suggestions were to keep the temp at or below 180F to avoid blowing things up. This jogged my memory of an article by Tony Hansen where he states it's okay to candle / dry out greenware up to 240F without issues.  I know it seems logical to keep the temp below the boiling point of water but is it necessary? If one can get the same results with drying the pots out at 240F rather than below 212F it seems logical to do so. In a perfect world we would have temperature, humidity and air flow control to have the perfect drying conditions but that's not likely for most studio potters.

    I haven't gone up to 240F in temperature for candling greenware, wondering if anybody has and were there any issues?

    I have forgotten to candle and fired wet pots, does that count?

     My experience leads me to believe you can throw and fire the next day without candling at all, so it makes sense you could candle at a higher temp. But, but but... one of my pots blew up, a thick one. So... seems to me the thickness dictates everything. I have broken greenware that "seemed" dry, but the thickest section still had moisture inside, so throwing thin with little water should be fine, but a newbie pot that is thick and wet maybe not.

     Neil made an interesting point about pots never blowing up until after 500f or so. My experience has been the same.

      I feel like the real issue is the "escape" of water content below a certain threshold prior to reaching that higher temp where the mechanical water starts to vaporize/steam, if the regular water content is too high then steam pressure doesn't have time to release through the body. I have steamed the hell out of pots on the wheel with a heat gun and they don't blow up. I have also seen another potter use an acetylene torch to heat up sections really fast so they would explode, but the whole pot didn't explode, just the surface. ( Well, sometimes the pot was lost, lol)

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.