Jump to content

Asmaa Aman-Tran

Members
  • Posts

    26
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Asmaa Aman-Tran

  1. I have a much better understanding now Also I was wondering if I design the plates in a way that they have small feet on three (tripod) or four points of the plate bottom surface and stack , would they warp anyways?
  2. Thank you Neil for the information on the firing schedule. It sure helps a lot!
  3. I’m referring to firing on the kiln sitter’s high setting . Sorry I haven’t specified it properly. For the stacked ware, Since it will be unglazed, but fired to cone 6 , would wax/alumina help with warping?
  4. Thank you for your reply Thank you for your help and information. When I tested the kiln , the user’s manual stated to fire to cone 04 on high setting which only took 2 hours to reach that temperature. So I was thinking to fire my components to cone 5 or 6 on high. But I understand now that it would put too much stress on the elements and I definitely do not want to change anytime soon. For my stacked ware , I’m thinking unglazed but fired to maturity not bisque. I’m guessing if I bush in between the ware with alumina /wax they wouldn’t warp?!
  5. Hello ! I received my new skutt KS 609 and test fired it successfully given that I have never worked with a kiln sitter. I will mainly be using it to make small stoneware and porcelain components for jewelry and wall hangings. My question is has anyone tried to fast fire cone 6 unglazed stoneware and porcelain to vitrification ? I only want to fast fire for small beads and components. Also, is it safe to stack cone 6 stoneware plates without warping (slow fired of course) I’m fairly new to mid fire clay bodies Thanks! Asmaa
  6. Ahhh and that’s one porcelain I’m excited about! Guess I’ll have to experiment and see . Thank you Liam!!
  7. I did read about the alumina with wax resist which sounds like an amazing idea, but yet another step I will look into standard clay , Thank you !!
  8. Thank you so much for your insight. I ended up ordering a 120v skutt 9”x11” chamber to add to my Paragon home artist. At the moment I can’t have a bigger kiln , no space I guess I also just want to make the jump into the porcelain and stoneware world !
  9. Hello, I have been working with earthenware since I started my ceramic journey and usually make non functional ware that is unglazed or finished with terra sigilatta and have been stacking my pieces to maximize kiln space. I'm ready to make a switch to stoneware and porcelain and planning to make unglazed beads , components and small 3 dimensional wall hangings made out of coils ( like chains) I have come across a few topics where there has been mention of certain stoneware and porcelain can fuse to the other items when stacked. My question is do any of you have any recommendations about mid range commercial clay ( porcelain and stoneware) bodies that do not pose that issue when fired to cone 5 ? My intention for example is to fire beads in a bowl . Or stack small tiles, coil chain and coil tubes. Thank you !
  10. I don’t know why I thought it could be programmed the same way as the larger one. It sounded too good to be true ... thank you for the heads up!!
  11. I want to use it as a test kiln, or for beads. It does fire up to 2000 F , I would love to know how fast it claims to fire .
  12. Hello !! I’m planning on getting the Paragon express 6 and was wondering if anyone has tried it before?
  13. It is safe for surfaces that intended for glaze, after bisque firing of course or underglaze but not for sig . It creates a barrier and prevents the sig from adhering to the clay properly.
  14. No good, I had this issue with corn starch That used on some slabs for texture. I applied terra sigilatta to the forms and it chipped of after firing and was blaming the sig. It took me a while to figure out it was actually the cornstarch that made it chip off lol
  15. Yes , it is actually the Standard 420 that I’m using, but I didn’t have this issue with a previous batch ...
  16. Thank you for your replies. I do wedge on drywall covered with canvas, now I suspect it might be bits of drywall boards. Although I did have the issue on some extruded shapes . I’ll try to be more careful next time and see if the problem persists.
  17. Hello everyone, I want to first thank you all for the endless advice and support to all of us. I have learned so much through this forum since I started my ceramic journey a few years ago. today, I come to you with an issue that I’ve been having with my red low fire and high fire clay. The low fire is a red Laguna with sand. The high fire is a dark Standard ceramic . I apply OM4 terra sigilatta to both clays and after the bisque firing to 05 , I notice chipping of the clay in random places on both clay bodies but not on all pieces. Sometimes it happens hours after unloading the kiln. I attached a picture on an example of the chipping . Did anybody experience this before.
  18. I’m probably a bit behind, but I was looking into this technique recently and decided to give it a try today on my low fire white clay body and dark clay body , bisqued then brushed with whole milk. And put it in the kiln at 550 F for 55 min after temp is reached.The result is just beautiful and I can’t wait to start using it on my work. As for water tight properties, I tested a drop of water and surprisingly the water did not get absorbed !!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.