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Mark C.

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Posts posted by Mark C.

  1. I do not use any of these stuff in this thread (no commercial galze/underglaze) but will add that a blender will in 2 minutes make those two hard oz be a nice blended one.

    You just need a mini blender-then store jars upside down in a sealed plastic tub.

    You could dry out the whole deal and hit it with a hammer then slake it back with water-use a mini electric drink stirrier to mix baby amounts


  2. CI  sold out long ago and many of its products are now made offshore -my take is quality went  to pieces 

    The new american way.The mother company is speedball with a huge range of products

    I use an old CI square steel stand  next to my brent wheel to store bats and my throwing clay pieces.Its well amde and has a solid plastic top with a hole in it from the wheel head penetration.


  3. I live about 150 yard away, so I just run a long hose out in the summer.

    I have zero idea which state you live in but if freezing is not an issue-rent a trencher and dig a trench at least 18 inches deep and put in some PVC plastic pipe bury and have water. This will not cost that much if you do it yourself .If you are in a freeze state you need to go deeper with this winter maybe 20 feet with a heated pipe.Just kidding on the 20 feet.


  4. For me it depends on the form-I tend to always use a wet sponge held in fingers. I usually do not have to mop out any water. Its always been a pet peeve to see any slop/water in bottom of any forms so I do not let that happen.

    Since having some wrist bones removed I'm throwing softer clay as its less pressure on right wrist

    If you need water use it but do not forget to remove it when done.Water an be your friend with small fast forms but on larger stuff it can work the other way.

    I used to rib forms but rarely us ether anymore- I feel I own them all but they sit idle most of the time. I do like a huge rib for huge bowls.

    Nowday's its a sponge and chamois . I'm experimenting with the smoother sponges XIEM sells for porcelain clay-the super smooth one is to slippery to hold onto -the porcelain clay one has worked better but last week was the 1st time i used them. If I could find the right sponge I would not need to pink up a chamois as the sponge could do it all. Always questing for less seconds when working-must be the Olympic season.


  5. I throw away work every week almost that stuff happens to-cracked- chipped -glaze runs- pitted- not right-ugly-knocked-bumped-dropped -just part of the business-yes its hard to swallow at 1st but over time its the only ethical thing to do..

    Just make more and move on-I'm a production potter and loss rate means just that.

    When you are making 1 of a kind sculpture which I have done also loss rate still applies as do ethics-sure JB wield can fix it but do not sell it fixed, hang it on your fence

    I think Pres said it best (it will come back and bite you)-this is a true statement.

    Yes raku is a crap shoot sometimes its fabulous other times its dead-dead does not mean fix it.


  6. As noted alumina will not melt and needs to be handled properly. 

    Over the years I stopped adding it to wax  ( as it settles out) instead I dip my cut sponge in wax and dip it into a small bowl of alumina powder.

    You have to be careful it does not run down the pot. I usually only use alumina on 1/2 of the lidded form the top or bottom then just straight wax on the sponge on the other 1/2.This process is fast and precise . Let these two pieces dry before putting the lid on.Then after glazing I sponge the edge once more with a wet sponge to remove any glaze drops.

    If the glaze gets any hydrate on it it will be rough and dry so you need to be carefull


    Now as to your wax it burns off not runs off so thats not the issue. No matter what kind you use

    I use mobil Ceramul A from Laguna-I think its sold in small amounts as I buy it in 5 gallons buckets-I use one up very 5 years or so.

    As far as it running did that happen when you applied it? As thats the only time it can run down.


  7. I remember reading somewhere that you should flip your shelves with each firing, so the kiln wash should go on both sides. I have no personal experience with this, so....anyone? How true (or necessary) is this?




    OK we cleared that up-By the way if you do wash both sides you will reget it every glaze fire from fallout siticking to your wares.


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