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  1. Hi again, Yes, the schematic would be really handy. I asked Brent for one but they said "the manufacture does not provide us with that information". So I'm guessing their circuit board manufacturer hasn't supplied them with a schematic, which sounds crazy to me. Anyway, the last thing I'm going to try before getting a new control board is to replace the bridge rectifier (KBPC25-06). I figure that it's a $5 part, so I may as well give it a go. It's the only thing apart from the control board that hasn't been tested or replaced. It will take a couple of weeks to get here though, I had to order it from overseas.
  2. I don't know why it has the "K" but it's definitely there on the model no. The motor shop tested the motor and said that it ran fine when they plugged it in without the electronics, so the motor is good. I guess I'm going to have to get a new control board.
  3. Usually almost immediately. I didn't feel confident taking the motor apart (it looked like it was going to be tricky), so I have taken the motor to a local electric motor repair guy. A couple of things I learnt from him: -It wasn't a circuit-breaker that was tripping, it was my house's earth-leakage switch. -He said that carbon can build up on the brushes leading to a short. He's going to test the motor so I can at least rule that out as being the problem.
  4. Nope, the control box is fine, you can see in the pic above, no burn marks anywhere. Nope, haven't checked that yet, I'm not sure I can get to them but I will have a look. It's old, no reverse switch. I've tried the control screws at different positions and now have them on the lowest speed, the motor still runs fast and trips the breaker. I jumped to conclusions and thought the foot pedal was the problem, so I replaced it.
  5. By the way, it's not just that the wheel trips the breaker, remember that on power up the motor runs at full speed no matter where the pedal is positioned, so there is something else going on. Another thing I noticed is that my control box does not have the large blue capacitor that is shown in the illustration on the Brent website, see pics. I don't think this is the issue, as the wheel was working fine before, but I'm wondering why my control box doesn't have it. I will likely end up buying a new control board if all else fails but it would be better to find out exactly what the problem is. I'm not getting any answers from Brent and they don't have or won't supply a schematic for the control board. Without the schematic or a parts list it is harder to work out what parts I need to overhaul the board.
  6. That's right, but the control board is made up of many smaller components (triacs, capacitors, resistors, etc.) most of which are almost certainly fine. These are through-hole components, which means that they are easy to remove and replace. It is really wasteful to replace the whole control board when it's likely that only one component has failed, or maybe there is a broken trace or a cold solder-joint. Unfortunately, I don't have the skills to diagnose the problem, which is why I am looking for help here. The pedal cord was just replaced with the speed assembly, so its brand new. It's the main circuit breaker for my house, an 80A breaker. Everything else in the house is on this breaker. The fuse in the control box is a 10A fuse and does not blow.
  7. It's not the one with the issues, mine is the very old pre-2000 controller. See attached pic.
  8. Here's the back: I can't find any broken traces or bad solder joints. I got an email back from Brent, they wan't me to buy a new board. I'm a little hesitant to do this seeing as I just bought a new pedal speed assembly and it didn't fix the problem. I'm worried that I may get a new board and it won't fix the problem. The other thing I could try is replacing some/all of the components on the board, that would likely be a lot cheaper. Any ideas?
  9. OK, after having a closer look, I'm not sure that the schematic I posted above is the correct schematic for my board. It seems that I have more components on my board, see the attached pictures. Can anyone verify this?
  10. Don't worry, I'll be sure to update the thread with any new developments. I've been at the beach, just getting back into this now. Thanks for the suggestions, John. Looking into this now.
  11. Pretty sure this is the correct schematic for the control board if that helps anyone to identify the issue (or for future problems).
  12. This is a 220V model which is the correct voltage for our supply. The wheel was working fine before this problem occurred.
  13. OK, thanks, if I don't get a response I'll call. The control board is otherwise in good shape, I would rather just replace the faulty component if possible, I have soldering skills so it won't be a problem if I can figure out what the issue is.
  14. Thanks for the replies everyone. Great community here! I'll shoot them an email and see if I can get a response. In the meantime: I tried another outlet on a different circuit, it still tripped the breaker. OK, I tried this and with the foot pedal assembly disconnected, the motor is still running at full speed on power up. So it's not the pedal and likely a problem with the control board. Does this mean that the transistor on the control board is bad? Or could it be some other component?
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