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tanvi504

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Everything posted by tanvi504

  1. @Mark C. that is so generous. Thank you Mark. I wouldve absolutely taken you up on that offer but Im in Vancouver Canada. I see your point though and Ive decided against the lehman equipment. I can’t seem to wrap my head around not having to sieve a glaze. I make my own - I used to buy coyote but Ive managed to make my own for less than half the price. Border closures forced me to finally figure out a good recipe. I need to dip my pots so have to figure out a way to get the drill out of the way to do that. But Im going to go down the DIY route I think. Hopefully I manage !
  2. @liambesaw that sounds great. Never seen a wall mixer though. Any idea where I might find one?
  3. @Mark C. I need to make 25 gallons of glaze every week for 6 months. I think its worth it if it saves me hours and hours spent mixing. That is if it really doesnt need to be sieved else it makes no difference. @neilestrick thank you for that insight. If there’s any other equipment that you know of that does the job better, id love the suggestion
  4. I was looking to purchase the Lehman GS20C to mix large amounts of glaze at once. Does anyone have experience using this machine? They have no information on whether or not the glaze would need to be sieved after mixing (the machine has no spout to drain the glaze if it needs to be sieved). Ive asked Lehman and they don't seem to know which is very strange. Theyve asked me to check with my glaze supplier but I mix my own glazes. If anyone has any experience with this, Id love to know. Thanks
  5. Ive been using Polar Ice from Plainsman clay and love the pure white color. Ive recently started mixing it with a hint of black stoneware to produce a beautiful grey body. Im now looking for a replacement for polar ice because 1. its too expensive 2. it warps in the glaze fire 3. its not the easiest porcelain to work with and recycle Has anyone had any experience with a good white porcelain? I need it to be pure white because if it has the slightest tinge of yellow then it turns the mixed body a buff color instead of gray. I live in Vancouver, BC so there's a lot that isnt available here.
  6. Im pretty new to layering glazes and was looking to create something like the attached image. Before I dive into looking for suitable recipes, I wanted to know how this effect might be achieved. Is it with a runny base glaze and another glaze on the top half? Is it a base glaze + two blue glazes? Just need a direction to explore more. I fire in an electric kiln to cone 6. Thanks
  7. @Min you’re absolutely right. Glaze chemistry is very intruiging to me and im so excited to explore further. Since its so new to me and the field is so vast and varied, it was nice to have a starting point which you have now provided. Thank you for explaining that. @liambesaw @neilestrick The kiln was fun on both occassions and it was cooled the same as before but I think you might be right about the thickness. The second batch was applied thinly than the test tiles so that might be the issue. Neil you mention that sitting out after being glazed can affect the melt. Did you mean lett
  8. I found this recipe for a micro crystal glaze cone 6 on glazy and gave it a go. The first time I got gorgeous crystals and the second time nothing - just a super matt white glaze. Now the author of the glaze says that it is best used fresh - something to do with soda ash being soluble. The first time I used it right after I mixed it and the second time it sat for maybe 4-5 hours before I used it. Could that small amount of time be responsible for the crystals not forming? And my second question is, is there a substitute to soda ash that might work in the same way but produce a reliable glaze t
  9. The G2926B is actually the clear that I initially tried and it bubbled like crazy. The recipe posted by Bill fared a bit better. Ill try the Wollastonite clear next and see what comes of it. Thanks everyone ! This has been so informative.
  10. This definitely helps ! Thanks for explaining the ‘healed’ shut concept. I looked again and it looks to me like the white and the new clear recipe might be okay. I tried the lemon leach test and nothing changed so thats good too. Ive attached closer pictures here. Would love to hear your thoughts. Im still thinking about getting Aardvark Basaltic because it looks like it might have more options for glaze. Is this the wollastonite clear you mentioned? gertsley borate 21 wollastonite 8 neph sy 30 EPK 10 silica 325 31 total 100
  11. Just wanted to post my results here and see what everyone thinks. The smaller test tiles in the images are the new ones (slow fired bisque to cone 04 and glaze to cone 5) and the bigger ones are my old test tiles with a regular bisque to cone 06. There is only a very small improvement if any. The last test tile is the new recipe I tried posted by @Bill Kielb While it appears to be the best one in terms of microbubbles, it has given a kind of brownish tint. Im not sure if any of these glazes would work for food safety (liner inside mugs). Thoughts?
  12. oh looks like I missed a lot here in a day ! the clay is a deep red in its raw form (with a lot of black settlement when wet which im guessing is the manganese) @Min thank you for calling SPS and getting an answer for me ! too kind. I'll try the slow bisque program on the skutt to cone 04 and see what comes of it. Ill fire with my current glaze after that and see if it fires right. If not, I might buy the one from SPS that they claim works. The kiln is in our studio but we leave the door and windows open when we fire and do it when we aren't around so no one has to breathe the toxic stuf
  13. @Min I did read that article when you suggested a slow bisque but it requires candling of 12 hours increasing the entire bisque schedule 3x. That’s not something I can afford unfortunately (I rent a kiln from my studio mate) what is your opinion on using a pre programmed slow bisque on a skutt kiln? Or introducing 30 min hold times at 752, 1063 and 1500 F ?
  14. @Bill Kielb do you think a pre programmed slow bisque will suffice? I read in another article to introduce 30 min hold times at three critical temperatures - 752, 1063 and 1500F. What would you suggest?
  15. The kiln I fire in isn’t vented and the bisque load was quite full. I used the pre programmed bisque firing schedule on a skutt to cone 06 on medium speed. I see your point and thank you for explaining that so well. Ill try and find a suitable bisque schedule and maybe also try the new recipe recommended by Bill. Looks like my clear glaze recipe only suits the plainsman body and not much else. Thanks Min !
  16. That’s great. Thanks for sharing Bill ! Ill give the recipe a go and see what happens. Like you said, I might end up having to switch bodies but I will try everything I can before I do.
  17. This is the recipe I use - https://digitalfire.com/recipe/g2926b Sorry Im relatively new to glaze chemistry so Id love your advice on this - do you think increasing the frit might help in this case? My clay goes only upto cone 5 and ive fired this glaze on other clay bodies to cone 5 with no problems.
  18. Unfortunately the canada-usa border is closed so pick up is impossible too. Will just have to wait until this passes i suppose. So heartbreaking to hear the struggle other businesses are facing. my clear glaze is actually a plainsman recipe that uses frit 3124 for boron. Thats the one I tried and it bubbled. ive tried it and it fires a dark brown. Im after a pitch black. I might actually try adding black stain to plainsman coffee to see what happens. Thanks for suggesting it
  19. Hi Bill, ive tried several glazes on test tiles with no luck. The same glazes that work beautifully with other clays. Glazenerd, that’s an interesting suggestion. I dont have access to Imco clays here (vancouver, canada) but I might try a different brown body with stain and see what comes of it. Thank you for suggesting that. Hulk, that is a great suggestion ! SPS carries Aardvark clay so this might be something I could try once Aardvark opens again - i see they’re closed due to covid. Thanks a lot for sharing that.
  20. I fired only to cone 5 as I was told about the bloating above this cone. They list their range cone 04-5 which apparently is the bisque-maturity temperature. In any case I didnt go above cone 5 but still cant seem to get a clean glaze. I just want to know if anyone has with manganese heavy clays. Ive attached the picture again I hope it works this time !
  21. Hope everyone is staying safe in these crazy times. Ive been experimenting with SPS's Midnight Black Clay. I love working with this clay and it fires to an absolutely gorgeous pitch black. The issue Im facing is with using it for functional ware. There is no glaze that is compatible with it ! Everything leaves tiny bubbles on the surface which im guessing can't be good for food safety? I wanted to make mugs from it with a white or transparent liner glaze on the inside. Anyone have any experience working with this clay? PS the attached image is from the internet - but its exactly what my f
  22. Thanks for the suggestions. I suppose plate setters would be the safest option.
  23. Im looking for some advice regarding luster firings. I use cone 5 clay and glaze. Can the wares be touching each other in a luster fire at cone 018? Not the lustered parts but the glazed parts. Or will they stick to each other even though its a low temperature fire? Im trying to fire 30cm plates that have just one line of luster. Is there any way I can put stilts on a plate (avoiding the luster ofcourse) and put another plate on top of it? or will it damage the glaze?
  24. Lost two bud vases in the kiln yesterday. Shouldve let them dry out longer. Sigh..losses hurt. All part of the learning curve.

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