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Everything posted by tanvi504

  1. Thanks for the suggestions. I suppose plate setters would be the safest option.
  2. Im looking for some advice regarding luster firings. I use cone 5 clay and glaze. Can the wares be touching each other in a luster fire at cone 018? Not the lustered parts but the glazed parts. Or will they stick to each other even though its a low temperature fire? Im trying to fire 30cm plates that have just one line of luster. Is there any way I can put stilts on a plate (avoiding the luster ofcourse) and put another plate on top of it? or will it damage the glaze?
  3. I am visiting Canada for 2 weeks in June and am looking for short 1-2 day workshops that I can take in Vancouver, Calgary or Toronto. Im having some issues with my wedging and centering and am hoping to find a private one-on-one troubleshooting sort of workshop. Any ideas? Anybody know any talented tutors?
  4. This might sound like a silly question. Ive worked with high fire clay so far - so I bisque to cone 05 and glaze fire to cone 5. I want to use some low fire glazes and im not sure on how to fire it. My question is how do you fire clay that has a firing temp of 1000-1250 celcius with low fire glaze. I would prefer to bisque fire first and then apply glaze instead of applying glaze to greenware. What temperature do I bisque to? and what temperature do I glaze fire to? Oh also, any suggestions for a low fire pure white dipping glaze that doesn't run? ( I use amaco celadon C-10 snow for cone 5 dipping which is amazing - so any low fire suggestions similar to this)
  5. Hi there I am looking for a pink glaze recipe that fires at cone 5-6 and stays bright. So far everything ive seen on the market fades at that cone temperature. And the recipes I found online are not quite bright. I know using chrome tin makes a glaze pink. Also Nepheline Syenite. Anyone has a recipe to achieve the attached color at high fire?
  6. I am also fairly new to pottery. I first bought the Shimpo RK 55 wheel which I didnt like. It slowed down considerably every time I tried to center which is because of its weak motor. Then I bought a Brent CXC which I looooveeeee. This wheel is so powerful its amazing. And I purchased an L&L easy fire 18S kiln which is also really good. Very easy to operate and has ample space if you are just starting off. Just my two cents. Good luck !
  7. Lost two bud vases in the kiln yesterday. Shouldve let them dry out longer. Sigh..losses hurt. All part of the learning curve.

  8. I just bought an easy fire e18s kiln. I was going to do a test fire. I have one question. The instruction manual talks about spring hinges and things. We didnt disassemble the kiln. Do we need to follow any of these steps? We simply assembled the stand and placed the kiln on top. Am I ready for test fire?
  9. Hi everyone. So I tried some of the things that you guys suggested and I did manage to resolve the problem somewhat. Looks like it was a combination of trapping an air bubble at the bottom while smacking and also squeezing too hard at the bottom while coning up. Im still not getting it perfectly centered but its a lot better - and there was no knot at the bottom like my images - so thats good ! thanks for helping everyone. I love how helpful this community is !
  10. I posted a question a few weeks ago about centering. I started doing pottery about 6 months ago and was progressing fairly well. And then suddenly i just couldn't center. No matter what I tried i just couldn't center. And it still continues. I get to kind of centered but I know i feel a wobble right at the base. I manage to make something but its a mess trying to trim because there are knots and lumps all over. And now a few times the base of my pots look like this. (attached images) What am I doing wrong? Last night I stopped the wheel after I couldnt get it to center and wired through my lump of clay in several places. There were absolutely no air pockets. I just dont understand what im doing wrong. Any advice?
  11. Please excuse me if my question seems stupid. Im quite new to this. I want to fire a stoneware - first bisque, then with a white glaze and finally paint it with underglaze colors and fire again. The clay I am using is Laguna B Mix 5 WC 401 which fires at cone 5. The white glaze I want to use is Amaco dry glaze C10 snow which fires at cone 5-6 I would paint with underglaze that says it should be applied to cone 04 bisque ware and fired to cone 06. Now my question is how do I fire? Can I do a bisque fire at cone 5. Then glaze fire at cone 5. And then again a low fire for the underglaze at cone 06 ? Or do I need to use a low fire clay that fires bisque at cone 04?
  12. If you follow Molly Sanyour ceramics on instagram you'll see she makes bowls very similar to these. She puts different stains in clays and then wedges them together. Even has hyperlapse videos of her doing it.
  13. I recently got a Brent CXC from theceramicshop.com and they shipped it for me to Dubai, UAE. Long way from them They used UPS but handled everything for me. I didn't have to get involved with the freight companies and struggle to get quotes etc. It cost me quite a bit for shipping to Dubai but PR shouldn't be too much. Email maggie at maggie@theceramicshop.com and she will arrange a quote for you in a few days.
  14. So I recently bought a kiln and don't know a lot about how glazes work - will figure it out as I go along. Just had a question. How is the effect in the attached teapot achieved? Can I dip bisqueware in white and then paint on top of it with underglaze and then fire? How else would I be able to achieve a white base with painted pattern on top? Appreciate any advice.
  15. thanks for the advice. I am buying a new one and hence taking your suggestions on getting a digital control. Im looking at L&L fuego, e18s or liberty belle. Thanks for the tip on 240v - will keep that in mind as well.
  16. Hi guys. I am looking at buying a small kiln to fire pottery. The one I think will work for me is the Cress FX1814HPF Kiln which fires to cone 10. I wanted to ask if anyone has experience using it? I have never used a kiln before by myself. Is it easily understandable? Can I fire ceramic pottery in it? Any advice is welcome. Thanks This is the description -- The Cress FX1814HPF electric kiln fires to 2,350°F on 208 or 240 volts. This 1.84 cubic foot kiln features a 2.5" firebrick, and high power elements. The FX1814HPF, and all Cress Firemate kilns, is equipped with a kiln sitter, limit timer, two position lid-venting prop and insulated peepholes. Firemate kins have a patented control with reduced heath-shock firing curve, thumbwheel power adjustment, and a automatic/manual firing mode switch.
  17. Hi everyone. I am looking for some advice on which clay to try out. I want a white stoneware clay that is soft enough to work with. I am quite puny with not an immense amount of upperbody strength and I have a weak wrist so I need something that doesnt need too much strength to wedge/handle etc. Also I dont want a high fire clay. Cone 5/6 is good. I also like using pure white glaze and would like it to fire 'white' and not off white or cream. I live outside the USA and would have to ship it overseas so it doesnt matter where in the states it is located. Any suggestions?
  18. @britpot - oh that sounds like a unique way of doing it. Definitely going to try that. Dont care how dirty it may be as long as it gets my clay centered. @stephen - I agree. trimming wobbly pots is very depressing. I am probably rushing through it and worrying too much about not being able to center. Im going to take a video the next time I sit down to throw and see where im going wrong. thanks for all the advice.
  19. thanks everyone for the advice. Chris/Marcia - they tried to center the same ball of clay on the wheel that I was struggling with. Perhaps I should ask someone else to wedge and then try throwing that and see if its any different. Although when my tutor couldn't center my ball of clay, she stopped the wheel, took a wire and cut through 3 sections of the clay at different heights to see if there were any air pockets. There were none Its a serious mystery this. I will try what you've suggested and see if it works. Neil - Agree with you on the state of being. Unfortunately when i get frustrated trying to center it only makes the whole 'be centered within' much more harder. my entire ball of clay isnt homogenous. the wobbly pots that I have managed to throw with off center clay have knots/lumps in them. I can tell when I trim because my tools keep getting stuck in a particular spot or area. But I dont feel them when I wedge. Somehow they show up when I throw. Still not having any luck. Ill just keep trying I suppose.
  20. I would like to reiterate what Curt said. Even though you might not throw large pieces, keep in mind the torque while centering. I (as a newbie) bought a Shimpo RK 55 that has a centering capacity of 25 lbs thinking it would be a long long time before I throw pieces larger than that. But it slows down when I try to center even 2 lbs. The reason is torque and the 1/8 HP motor. Make sure whatever you buy has a motor of atleast 1/4 HP if not 1/2 or 1.
  21. Hi guys. Im about to lose my mind. I started pottery about 6 months ago and have been progressing really well. I started with buff stoneware and went on to white stoneware with no problems. I was throwing upto 800 gms till now. Recently I tried throwing a 1500 and then 2000 gms and was so pleased that I was successful. And then one day I couldn't center anymore. And the worst part is I cant figure out why. Not even 600 gms. Not even less. Nothing. I always get a twist right at the bottom on the clay where it touches the wheel and lumps/knots throughout my clay ! I just dont know what it is. After failing on my wheel at home, I tried it in my pottery class in front of my tutor as well. As soon as I touch the clay it gets this nasty twist at the bottom that I cant get out. My pottery teacher and two other students tried to center it as well with no luck. I just dont understand why this is happening. Ive tried different clays, different wheels - nothing. Im getting so frustrated. To explain my centering process - I used to cone up and down to center and then I had more luck recently with pressing with the heel of my left palm on the side and with my right fist on top of the clay to center. It used to get centered under 2 minutes. But none of those methods are working at the moment. Ive struggled for 30-40 minutes at a stretch without any luck. Anyone face a similar problem? How did you solve it? Just to let you know - I have no personal problems or anything that are affecting this - and since my tutor wasnt able to center my clay as well im guessing its not related to anything going on internally with me. Maybe its my wedging? I dont know. Any ideas?
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