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  1. Can anyone recommend a museum wax/putty for securing ceramic sculpture to pedestals during a show? thanks!
  2. http://www.cityofnewberry.com/south-carolina-clay-conference Presenters: Michael Sherrill, Glenda Guion, Bill Griffith Show/sale for attendees
  3. Thanks much for everyone's replies. Because the cost of safely shipping work (dbl boxed, tons of bubblewrap, foam, crate inside box sometimes, etc) was getting out of hand, I wanted to think about all the variables, and strength of the clay body was one. Thanks much for the advise! Lucy
  4. How much more strength re: shipping/handling would I get from making sculptures in stoneware vs earthenware? Some of my earthenware work has appendages that I don't think can be packed safely for shipping. Would they be significantly stronger and less likely to break if I switched to a stoneware? (I love the earthenware I use and don't really want to get to know a new clay body but would consider if it paid off in ship-ability.) thanks much, Lucy
  5. I recently received an invitation to be in a show and was recommended by an artist in my state whom I have never met. I was certainly flattered to receive the invitation. I sent a handwritten notes of appreciation. But, now I know I could have asked this forum. So, what's the appropriate protocol: send a thank you note? send a thank-you email? send half of anything i sell at the show? name my new dog after him? add him to my will? never mention it? Thanks for any advise. I want to respond appropriately if it ever happens again. LLB
  6. This is my website: http://www.lucybaileyclay.com/main.php Cocoon babies are wall mounted and I use the black fabric on the wall and actually hang the pieces for the photos so those look best as far as the fabric disappearing. For other pieces you can see they are sitting on a flat surface. Lucy
  7. Do you have a website with pictures? I would like to see a photo with the black velvet piece of fabric in use.
  8. I have found the 6500 degree Kelvin bulbs, white balance on the camera and a tripod to be absolute essentials. I made my own box out of pvc pipe for the skeleton with a sheet draped over it to filter the light. I bought inexpensive reflector lights from a home supply store. I use a black velvet piece of fabric for the background and it "disappears" in the photo. Spent about $30. on the whole set-up and am happy with the results. If you google "DIY light box" you'll get lots of good ideas for little money! Good luck!
  9. I've had good luck w/ Ceramcoat, and acrylic - easy to find at craft stores, which I then seal with a varnish product called JW's etc, Right-Step Varnish (matte and glossy available). I use Ceramcoat on bisque-fired cone 5 clay. The clay's very thirsty so I brush a little water over it in sections before I start painting on the acrylic, that way I can blend the paint, otherwise it soaks right into the clay where it first touches it and it can't be blended or moved at all! I've also used wood stain. I've seen people use colored pencils, too. Check out the work of Tip Toland - she uses pastels which she whittles into a power and then paints on with small brushes, then seals. Adrian Arleo uses encaustic wax on some of her work. If you try this be sure to get exact directions from a good source as the fumes can be dangerous. The surface remains a bit waxy, too, so it's a very different kind of surface. My understanding is that the term "cold finish" applies to any finish that isn't fired. Good luck!
  10. The Enhancer and Mender products have not worked for me but there could be lots of reasons why...who knows. After firing I have had good luck using Gorilla Glue. It does swell (as the package says, to about 3x the original amount) so I use a small amount, am careful to place it just where I want it (using a toothpick) and I use it only when I can stabilize the two pieces in place w/ a rubber band or something to add pressure and keep everything aligned. I've also started using a very small amount of a 2-part resin/hardener called Envirotex Lite. It's quite runny so I let it get thick for several minutes and, again, am careful not to use it where it'll run. It takes a tiny amount. I haven't found anything (wood, ceramic glazed and unglazed, metal, glass, stone) it won't bond.
  11. I am using a white low fire clay and would like to use underglaze to fill lines and drawn or carved designs. When I use a metal rib to scrape away the excess underglaze off the surface of the piece, it leaves blacks marks all over my clay. Is that going to still be visible after firing to cone 06 or will it "burn away?" I tried a wooden rib but it isn't sharp enough to remove the underglaze well and leave a crisp edge where the designs are. Thanks much
  12. I bought a Skutt 1027KM one year ago. Electricity cost averages $12.00 per firing at ^05 (average firing time 20 hours). Have had very good support from Skutt. Lucy
  13. I am making some ^05 earthenware sculptures that have potentially fragile appendages and joints. (I'll eventually be using cold finishes on the outside.) Would glazing the inside improve their strength?
  14. Chris, thanks for the questions and comments. Got a fast reply from Skutt today and they walked my husband through resetting the temp at which the board is triggered to turn off at 180 instead of 160 degrees. They also suggested another fan aimed directly into the board via the louvers so I'll do that, too. Really patient, helpful Skutt rep. Said they've done this (resetting that temp) a good bit with good results. They didn't discuss a vent so I'm still wondering if that might help but he did suggest considering a window AC unit if this doesn't correct the problem. I make sculptures that need extremely slow ramping up and down; usually cool at a rate of 125 an hour. That's for bisque firing. A second firing is about 12 hours. Thanks again, Lucy
  15. I have an unvented Skutt 1027 KM in an 8x16 shed w/ 3 windows, double door, and 2 large fans and I get errors codes indicating that the board temp is over 160; the kiln shuts off midfiring. Temp inside the shed does get over 100, which the Skutt folks say is too high to fire. I live in South Carolina and it's dang hot for 3 months of the year. I can't afford not to fire for 3 months. I've tried timing the firing to be hottest at night when the ambient temp drops but I need to fire slowly (33 hours) and so that hasn't solved the problem. Any ideas about how to get/keep the shed cooler, short of a window AC...or other ideas? Thanks
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