Johnmicheal
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Everything posted by Johnmicheal
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Thank you both, for the info, I'm well on my way to replacing these now. I like understanding better why it is what it is.
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So 16.3 and the middle 19.5 is pretty well wasted In addition, I've cut the feed wires of the elements and now the resistance is twice that number, like 30 and 38?
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So 16.3 and the middle 19.5 is pretty well wasted
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Can you test the resistance of an element without disconnecting it from the relays. I used the traditional crimp connectors on this kiln. The kiln is a skutt 1227, with new relays, wiring, controls. The elements are the only thing not replaced recently, and I don't know how old they are. I'm asking because my firings have gotten dramatically longer. Like a bisque taking 11 hrs.
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I assume all of these kilns, with similar sizes, use elements that are made from the same material, unless you get into the high heat stuff. Do they have the same resistance.
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Referencing the prebent elements, I got a set of 1027 elements for my weird skutt kiln ( that I suspect is not a real one, but who knows, lol) and of course the bends didn't fit the kiln, and had to very carefully unbend, then rebend to fit, that sucked, luckily it was only one. So I see the merit in your suggestion.
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Soooo, not to beat a dead horse, but now I have too replace the elements in that 2327 Olympic, I have the skutt controller, would it be a big deal to just put 1027 skutt elements, rather than the Olympic elements. And, is there really an difference between them anyways.
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Kiln not reaching temperate, lid gap issue?
Johnmicheal replied to MikP's topic in Equipment Use and Repair
I can't answer too the digital side of your problem, but I can say that it's not a leakage issue. Every kiln I fire has a lid gap or worse. I have fitted lids in the past, but on the whole of it, I don't think it's a priority unless it's causing an issue with venting. In which case I just adjust for that also. -
I went with the smaller lid, nice thing about it is it fits this lid lifter that's been knocking about the shop for years. please excuse the brick I don't have a latch for it yet
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I'll pull it apart, and "glue" it back together, if it doesn't live, I'm not out anything. It'll work as a replacement bottom. The existing bottom isn't great, otherwise, I'd use it as a lid
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The crack staggers, and follows the brick. I have kiln cement that I've used too repair bricks with. As well as some new banding, it's for a 1027, which is a hair short, but I should be able to make it work
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This is my existing lid, it formed a pressure crack down the middle. Can I simply put a new band around it with a little more aggressive clamping, or am I going to have to pull it apart and repair it. And put a more aggressive clamp on it . It formed because the existing band had loosened, it was so old, I couldn't tighten it correctly. And the side support put a lot of uneven stress on it. I will likely hook it to the ceiling in the future.
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It's 3" brick, I'll look at it all again and see what I can do for a hing
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My 29 1/4 measurement was from flat to flat, it's close too 30" corner to corner No Denise, it wouldn't work as a bottom, and I don't really need one, but by a happy coincidence, it does fit my Olympic
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I'm trying too replace the lid on a 10 sided old skutt, maybe a 235 kiln sitter model. I have done much work on it through the years, even updating to computer control. I was always pointed towards the 1027 as it's modern equivalent, and had no problems. I buy a lid, I didn't measure it, that's on me, but it's too small. The existing kiln is 29 1/4 " wide. The 1027 is 28 3/8". I called Skutt, and was told I had probably bought a Frankenstein, and that they never sold this size kiln, even back too the late 70s, which is when my sister in law purchased it new. I need to know if there is a 10 sided model, in any manufacturer, that fits this size.
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The Genesis is cheaper, but my wife's sanity has value also. It'll be easier for her to fire if there is continuity between the various kiln bodies we have. I don't really care about the app stuff, I've had wifi cameras on my kilns for a couple years. But I do like the very visual way of creating, and tracking our programs.
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I had to build my own box for the olympic controller, so I could get zone control. I'm trying to just mount it to the wall, or a pedestal, so the mount isn't much of a concern. I used a skutt control box rewire kit to build it, because I always have spares. My only wonder, for now lol, is the difference in resistance between the two kilns elements. I couldn't find any info on the olympic 2327 element resistance. Skutt, no problem
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I am looking at upgrading my skutt kilns to the newer touchscreen interface. Pretty straight forward process. But can you use one of these interfaces on on a competitors kiln. I have a couple old olympics of similar size, ect to a 1027. They are about to become, individually zoned, relayed, ect. Perfect time for an upgrade. I know Bartlet has the Genesis programer, but I like continuity if I can get it.
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What’s on your workbench?
Johnmicheal replied to Pres's topic in Aesthetic Approaches and Philosophy
I still love my drycleaner bags, I can't remember the last time I actually drycleaned anything, but it didn't keep me from stopping in one and asking if they had any discards. I'm still using them, and that was 5-7 years ago, with a bag of them still in storage lol. They are light, they drape well, I double, sometimes triple them up to control drying.....and sticking with the subject, my workbench is clear, I'm ready to start again, pitchers are the need for this week
