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About laurelneth

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  • Birthday 03/06/1948

Profile Information

  • Location
    Punta Gorda, Florida
  • Interests
    All forms of art/craft, animals (I have a cattle dog, two poodles and two cats) gardening (which I don't do), and making things!

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  • Yahoo
  1. Sorry, I didn't understand your connection to my question. I started the round tiles by forming a 1/2" slab. When firm enough I took it to the wheel and cut it to a 12" diameter. When soft leather hard I turned it over and using a 1/4 loop tool, carved out approx. 1/4" circular grooves spaced not quite 1/2 apart until I got to the center. After adding clay and carving I scooped out of the back areas where the added clay was thick. Then, I added holes throughout the backside with a drill bit! Believe me, I did everything I could think of to keep this thing together!!! Unfortunately, I don't have a picture of the back to attach. (I take the pics but my daughter gets them on the computer for me cuz I don't know how). These tiles will be part of a larger community project and from what I understand, they will be attached to the project with wires bent over the raised rim. Laurel <><
  2. Hi. I am going to fire 2, 12" circular sculpted tiles, and I am hoping not to lose them in the firing process. I had read some time ago about using crushed soft brick on the firing shelf. I decided to crush some soft brick and ended up with a nice but rather course product. I was wondering, how fine should the soft brick be ground down to? I can see that it is possible to get it very fine if I need to. I would say my coursely ground brick had is about 1/8" and finer. If the idea is just to get the tile off the shelf and give it movement as it shrinks, I am thinking the coursely ground brick will be ok. But I have only used alumina silicate in the past and that is extremely fine, so I really don't know. What advice can you give me? Thanks, Laurel <><
  3. I haven't been potting all that long, but by your definition, I'm a potter and that is how I discribe myself to others. ~Laurel~
  4. I have a favorite pottery instructor on Youtube. His name is Hsin-Chuen Lin. He has about 87 excellent throwing and teaching videos. As a novice potter I have learned so much from him. His website is www.mypots.net. laurel neth
  5. hello Chris Campbell I'm a novice but I am lucky to be the son of a great potter. learning so it is not easier, pottery for beginners is not easy and the potter's wheel is the most difficult process to learn. In ceramics we need to be close to one skilled potter for the theory to make friends with your fingers. Pottery is one of the ancient arts and is one of the most difficult. It takes sensitivity, effort and passion. A potter needs to breathe the art of pottery every day of the week and for many months. But believe me: At the end the result is your own artistic realization! Perhaps this reply is not quite on point but I thought I would share with you my experience. The question I am asking myself is nolonger, what do I want to do, but what can I do? I have wanted to emulate other peoples wonderful work ever since I began pottery and looking at pottery books and magazines. For me, this has been very defeating and disapointing. It's only recently that I have realized that I do have a valid artistist voice of my own. I am now begining to embrace and explore my own God given abilities and style. It it freeing me to be myself! Laurelneth
  6. One more question, please. I looked for Hamada videos on Youtube and only found throwing videos, no decorating. Could you send me a link if you have one? Thanks again. Except for the question about using stain or oxides as a colorant in the hot wax, my questions have been answered. Yours, Laurel
  7. Laurel, I did not make the vessel that I use here. It is one of the earliest European Porcelains made in the De Medici Factory in Florence Italy 16th Century, I just love it. Lucille, maybe you could email me and give me a list of some historical pottery books. I would love to know more of what has gone before in the world of pottery. laurelneth@yahoo.com
  8. Thank you John for this valuable knowledge. I appreciate everyones thoughtful and informative replies. This is a very generous group and I am proud to be a member with you!
  9. Wow, thanks for the information. I would never have thought of it myself. I will explore this avenue. Sounds very promising from your discription! - Laurel BTW, I just went to your profile and saw your fantastic pot!!!
  10. For every minute you are angry, you lose 60 seconds of happiness. Ralph Waldo Emerson

  11. Thank you everyone who has shared information . It is very helpful. Has anyone any experience with adding stains or oxides to color the resisted area? As I have posted before, I have used mason stain black. It does work, though I was just guessing about amount when I added it to my cold liquid wax resist. I painted a design on a bare bisqued pot, then glazed the pot. If the wax had done a good job of resisting the result would have been good. I'm still interested in hearing more ideas about hot wax with added coloring. Thanks again, Laurel
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