Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About cabako

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Recent Profile Visitors

1,471 profile views
  1. Hulk you are correct, startup, wait till vac pumps down to at least 10^-4 torr (about 1 hr). I have not yet imaged ceramic samples but I have a diamond chop saw and gold /carbon sputter coater which should do the trick. I do not have polishing supplies yet, maybe rough images will suffice for the users on this forum. But polishing discs are cheap, and it is necessary for quantitative elemental analysis. I am 2.5 hrs from los osos....nice spot.
  2. FYI the above post is my old account, please send PM to this profile thanks.
  3. I've been firing with a propane weed burner in a small home made kiln to cone 10 at about 8-9hrs. I find with the weed burners its harder to control a stable low temp at the de watering phase. If you open the burner valve or turn up the psi just a bit too quickly you can break pieces. I put a small fan behind the burner to move the air around and push the flame forward into the kiln rather than up the walls which helps. Lately I've been using my kitchen oven at 185-250 F for de watering. It has a convection fan so that helps. Try to use an oven if your piece size allows it.
  4. Callie, Thanks for the pic & info, very useful. Cool about the kiln in medicine hat, my mom's side of the family is from lethbridge & barnwell. Small world. I forgot to add i took a quick video during the firing i've put it up on youtube, not the best quality. But you can see the burner nozzle spraying into the side port, i also sprayed it directly into the flame in front. Thanks to everyone for the help & info. It was a fun experience and I hope to eventually do salt and soda firings using biodiesel & veg oil as the fuel source.
  5. On second thought I think the sodium may have just fallen down inside the port? The venturi nozzle spray was very very fine. Maybe the garden sprayer and hotter saturated solution will help. I think the porcelain glasses closer to the flame were just more vitrified rather than coated with sodium.
  6. Ok heres the results, pretty interesting how the soda turned green on the brick and the cups 2nd and 4th pics. I can vouch that the beads were definitely crumbling apart in spots and they were easily brushed off or pulled off the pieces. Everything cracked or split in places because I think of the quick cooling once the lines froze. But some of the shot glasses came out okay (even though the liner glaze was baby vomit orange) and the ones in the path of the soda vapor definitely got a shiny coat, there was one behind the bottle further back and it was not shiny. Although it may hav
  7. These came from 50lb bags that were so old they had split and the names were erased, I think if I had to bet they would be either parker/parker balston Or BASF F-200 type activated aluminum beads for gas phase drying applications. Not sure what mesh size but they are probably similar to here: http://www.ecompressedair.com/activated-alumina-desiccant-316-in-(48-mm)-(50-lb-bags).aspx
  8. Well things didn't go quite according to plan. The propane tank & line froze up about an hour and a half after cone 04 dropped. I didn't have a bucket and warm water to put it into. Its been getting colder out lately and temp dropped off pretty fast once sun went down. So not even cone 6 bent. However I would say the soda spraying was successful. The 1.0 gph venturi nozzle (delavan brand, ebay) allowed me to spray in about a half gallon of saturated soda water with no plugging. Vapor was good and it was immediately noticeable when introduced into the kiln by color flashing orang
  9. Ok kiln is loaded and firing, in the first pic you can see the aluminum beads spread on the floor. The pieces placed directly on top. I'll knock/chip them off if they are stuck. I tested a room temp saturated solution of soda ash through the venturi nozzle and it worked fine, but rinsing with pure water helped to increase flow. I think with a spray/rinse cycle it should work fine. THe only cones i had on hand were 04, 6 and 10. so I guess I will wait about an hour and a half??? after cone 6 drops to start spraying in the soda. I also placed a couple loaded cups of soda directly in th
  10. I have a full face mask with NIOSH carbon filters btw.
  11. I remember reading that the sodium may affect the watch cones making them bend sooner is that true? And this will destroy a thermocouple too? One last thing, I have a concentrated lithium chloride solution. Could that provide any glaze effects? I may do that in a separate firing. Thanks all for your input
  12. What if I spray on some iron oxide stain or dust some iron oxide powder onto the raw ware, would that give give the sodium something to play with? I don't mind bland color ...these are just test pieces to see if I can get a good coating of glaze from the sodium. Could I do both Salt and Soda in the same fire? Or would the salt mask the soda effects? The "kiln" is outdoors, its tiny. I'd like to get 10 firings out of it before upgrading.
  13. wow again more great info to explore. The meanley article was very good and thorough thanks sputty! Marcia your post inspired me, I've been debating on what to use to spray the soda in. I have a brass compressed air venturi nozzle that I used to fire with liquid biodiesel. I think I'll fire with propane and use that nozzle to spray in the soda solution. I think that would really help distribute the soda through the kiln. It may plug off but should be easily cleaned with water... I don't know if the shelves I have are carbide or not but they are too big to fit into this small spa
  14. Ok no fiber. I probably won't make a kiln wash. But I have some activated alumina beads I can spread out under the ware to act as wadding and to let it move around a bit during the fire this may protect from cracks as well? I was also thinking about adding these into the clay itself and see what happens... https://www.deltaadsorbents.com/activated-alumina-desiccant-f200
  15. Callie really great info thank you for the pic! Yes this kiln is expendable. But maybe i'll put some thin lining of ceramic wool to cover the bricks from the salt and try to extend the life. This first firing only has some small shot glasses and a bottle. maybe if I tip them over on their sides and face the inside towards the flame they will accept the glaze better. Another question: do i HAVE to use wadding? Or can i use the kiln stilts with needle tips to place work on? Could I then just pluck off the stilts? I don't mind having marks left on the pieces. Thanks for the feedb
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.