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RebeccaC

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About RebeccaC

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 04/09/1958

Profile Information

  • Location
    Far NE Texas, USA
  • Interests
    wheel thrown pottery, dogs, horses, outdoors

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800 profile views
  1. I have not removed the broken piece at all yet, figuring the brick is brittle, and any moving around I do will make it worse. From what I can gather from all the helpful posts, I won't fully remove the piece, will vacuum it as best I can (there seems to be very little in the way of crumbs/dust), then use a small paintbrush to wet the two surfaces as best I can, and pour the thinned cement into the crack. My hubby has plenty of scrap wood in his shop that I can maybe fashion a clamp of sorts to hold the brick in place while it dries, with pins. I've ordered the pins and dry cement
  2. Thanks, everyone for your help and advice! I may actually glue and pin the piece, my OCD wants to see the brick back in one piece, even though I agree the repair may not hold for as long as I'd like.
  3. Hello all. Back again for some minor help. I have an L & L kiln, fired less than 6 times last year before we moved. We had lots of very enthusiastic help, and somehow in the process a kiln brick on the top edge of the kiln body got fractured. The kiln was pristine before we moved, I always used a shaped piece of plywood that I laid on the edge when I loaded pots for firing to avoid this very problem. Hubby and I just moved the kiln into my new studio, and I found the broken brick. I'd like to repair the brick, as it will eventually come apart with use due to it's location.
  4. Hello, Jays. Yes, I've got a recipe for glaze using human ashes, and will keep that in mind. Have been tossing the idea around for a long time, but when I ran across the Parting Stones, it appealed to me, more so than the glaze. Min posted a link (above) for the Parting Stones, there's a video that explains it. Thanks!
  5. Thanks for your reply, Kristina. I will be trying this at some point. Right now, all my equipment and all my potting tools, everything is boxed up and stacked up in my hubby's shop. We recently moved back to Texas; a shop for me is next on the build list, we're waiting for the rain to slow down so dirt work can be started to pour a slab. So glad you expressed your interest in the parting stones. I don't feel so silly for bringing it up. Will post pics when I finally get to this. Thanks!
  6. Thanks, Min. I actually have some Cornwall Stone, bought it to mix up a glaze I wanted to try. Got a local suppliers last 11 lbs. of it. The kaolin, I'm hoping will be the EPK I have? I lost my parents 20 years ago, both in the year 2000, and still have my portion of their cremains, which myself and my two siblings split. I have an almost new L & L kiln that is rated for Cone 10, but have only fired it a couple of times, no higher than cone 6. So the cone 7 or 8 you suggest is doable. Hubby and I just moved back to Texas, so I am without a place to make pots until he get
  7. Hello, all. I've been a longtime lurker and faithful reader on this wonderful forum. Have learned so much from reading, and while waiting for my husband to build my new pottery studio, I"m spending lots of time here, gathering up ideas and more info on everything. My question is in regards to a post I read earlier, about "parting stones", produced by a company that charges way more money than I have to spend. The parting stones are made using cremains, and some other material (someone on here guessed dental material), resulting in a smooth stone for remembering a loved one. I ha
  8. Thanks for the reply, Linda. In the summer here, it sometimes gets over 100 degrees, and even with opening the two 6' doors, and running a room pedestal fan, I sometimes put a really small fan pointed directly on the controller. I do worry about the heat, and don't want to fry the electronics! Thanks, again.
  9. Thanks for the help! I'm not always sure about the validity of some of what I read on the internet, and wanted to double-check.
  10. I live in SE Oklahoma, and the nights here lately have been running in the mid 20's temperatures. My question is: do I need to "warm" my new L & L kiln controller/panel before starting my bisque firing in the evening when the temp is dropping? The slow bisque program runs about 13 hours, and I'm adding a 2 hour pre heat. Seems I read about this "warming" idea somewhere once, and am not sure if it is really necessary for the electronics on the control panel. My kiln is situated in a small 2 car garage/building, concrete floor, metal sides and roof, no insulation, and plenty
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