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Everything posted by preeta

  1. Nancy i agree. attend a few firings before you get a feel for what you want. everyone i've noticed does their firing differently. before going for a firing see if you can meet and talk to some of the people who have fired in the kiln. there is the book knowledge and then there is the actual experience. keep the book knowledge for yourself but go by any guidance (from solid sources) you get from the soda fires you will attend. forget how you want your wares to look. just do some testing intially. do some glazed, unglazed and slip look. i was all gungho in the beginning
  2. Nah that should work. not after a week. a week is a long time. 150 to 190 degrees for maybe 6 to 8 hours. and then just be careful how you transport and pick up the ware. can easily create fine cracks at this time. though why convection oven. are you firing in a community kiln - or your own kiln? if your own kiln why not candle at 200 overnight and then start bisque. if community just find out if they candle overnight.
  3. extra water according to me creates more cracks esp. if both the items are really far apart with drying. there are some things that i learnt that saved me the surface cracks. - timing. i'd pull the handles, then trim my mugs, and then attach the handles. not more than 3 mugs at a time because i was using trimming to shape my mugs. - since i am heavy handed with water/slip i would put slip/water on one item - either the cup or handle not both. i'd score both. ~ for me the most important ~ turn the cups upside down, have all the handles facing in and cover and slow dry ju
  4. A couple of members here once fires. I think Oldlady is one of them. I tried the same G in our school test kiln. I was blown away by how different they turned out. I also noticed a difference in glaze outcome when test tiles were fired in test kiln vs regular kiln. I no longer use the test kiln for testing glazes.
  5. Oh what a shame! Are there any gas firers near you that you could share their kiln with? Gas 10 has so many beautiful glazes. Do you have a deadline?
  6. Wow Marcia. These are spectacular. So unusual. The blooms. Like flowers. If you fired them in your Raku kiln did you fire one sagar at a time? this is nothing like I’ve seen before. Seems like a contender for a CM cover.
  7. If you are a hobbyist potter why do you even need bats? For a rare thing here or there maybe. But generally one does not really need bats. I use bats for really large stuff , but never for little stuff. In fact I even learnt to not use a bat for plates.
  8. Well Cstovin, I’m sorry but the answer is not that simple. There isn’t one answer. The key is to try and then choose what works for you. All that you mention works. But you have to figure out what works for you. You can also use brush and underglaze. Or get type writer letters. Ive tried many different ways and find I like a variety depending on the message I’m writing. Ive even used just a ballpoint when the clay is the right consistency. Johnny wow that’s quite a tool. Reminds me of a fountain pen.
  9. Nancy how are the walls of your urns and mugs? Pretty even? If so then whatever centering you are doing is enough. Have you tried bowls yet? When the wheel was rotating did it not look centered but if you stopped the wheel your pot looked fine? Personally I feel centering is overrated. I sometimes feel throwing is nothing but a series of battles to keep the clay centered. The key is knowing what to do when you get uncentered or thick and thin. Thanks to the tricks I was taught by our local 84 year legend I am considered a magician at our local community college (where I do all my c
  10. Shawnhar you work at a community studio and use their community glazes right? I would imagine someone is keeping an eye on the glazes. Are others having crawling issues too? Either way you can’t change the glaze by adding water. i would say the issue is you. Not being mean. I can relate to you. I was in your shoes at my JC. I was throwing thinner than the proff wanted me too. That has its downside. That means I had to figure out my rules. You can’t glaze in one day. If I used same glaze inside and out I’d dip once and then return the next day to do a real quick dip. I discovered the pot
  11. That is a personal choice. There are potters esp those who alter their mugs like leaving throwing lines inside (if not outside too for design) to show the cup was thrown on a wheel. But no there is no rule the inside should be smooth like a bowl. In fact potter like Adam Field stamps the inside of his porcelain mugs on the floor I prefer the bottom of my cup be smooth because I like my stirring spoon to be smooth. I have a long pointed steel rib that I have used to smooth the inside. I’ve also just used a sponge to get the extra slip inside the walls of the mug. Ive
  12. I have not found anything that will match the brilliance of gold lustre. Ive tried nail polish, acrylic and gold spray paint. Does not match the fullness and brilliance of gold lustre. They do well on their own but not next to gold lustre
  13. Congratulations Johnny. I’ll be looking forward to seeing your name on the screen and squeal I know him. Pyrometers depends on the type of Raku you do. For glaze fire just used visual cues. But for mica Raku and horsehair needed pyrometers. With mica the temperature was important and length of time of reduction otherwise the mica would lose or change its colour. It’s make up grade fine mica. Dave Hodapp a retired chemistry school teacher does a lot of mica Raku https://goo.gl/images/jh3q36 https://goo.gl/images/oxo2Du
  14. Rex I was once playing with a cracked surface. So I know even thin layer of slip will crack (if not fall off) on bone dry clay. Depending on the formulation as earlier pointed out engobe might not crack on bone dry. I have not tried engobe so I am not sure about it. Also check your underglazes. Will they allow on leather hard? I like most of my work done in the leatherhard stage. As bisque I like the option of another layer, some touch up. But my dark colours I prefer greenware so they don’t bleed into the clear or white (black can show blue) I’m excited for you. I love experi
  15. I would make it out of one thrown piece. A bottomless big ring on a plastic bat. Then I’d turn it into an oval. I would then alter with the ribs on the side like the way bill van guilder alters his bowls. Let it be to stiffen a bit or until clay not tacky. Then I would push out the pillowy sections. I might even throw the cylinder to the sides to stretch a bit. The bottom is like Martha Grover. She has a few v. Helpful videos on YouTube. When you stretch you get the wavy form or you cut. And then attach the bottom. The decoration looks like slip trailing to me.
  16. Brian make some test pieces(it goes without saying eh?!). In my limited experience at our JC low fired tiles didn’t do very well (however we did not do China paint). The high fire did much better. Finish was better. We ended up using the low fire tiles in murals
  17. Doc do you want to get the marbling effect! Like Callie pointed out i watched the slip videos from Greek and some exUSSR countries. I think Robin Hopper shows a different one. I’ve only tried liquid on liquid with slip where I’ve gotten nice sharp lines. With clear glaze on top. At my previous JC I remember the prof. Constantly reminding us glazes don’t work the way acrylics do. You can’t mix white and red and get pink. I a.m. taking a guess that with the right consistency glaze trailing is possible. I use a hair dye bottle to trail with. I let the poring consistency air dry
  18. What are going to do with those painted and fired tiles? Countertop? Or a wall piece. Wonder if you can find out if they are high fire or low fire tiles. Ive used underglazes 04 glazes and even phototransfer with Oxide ink on them.
  19. Uhhhh Neil. I see your excitement so I assume you got your answer. but I don’t understand. Does this mean you are going to play with the COE till the extra thick 10% fits? In other words was Min’s COE of her bomb clear glaze set so that no matter how thick it always fits. Does her numbers help you figure out her COE. Learnt even more here.
  20. I make two rounds for test tiles for glaze I’m making from a recipe where I see just a test tile as reference. Round 1 - Typical thrown or slab built test tile (thanks to John Britt) quick check on expected characteristics. I keep using that design. Second round - Small bud vases and small bowls with different clay bodies. I keep these as my reference pieces esp for glazes where gravity plays a big part. They do occupy a lot of space but they give me so much more info. The best part, if I don’t want them and they are decent looking they make good gifts.
  21. So I just made a discovery! it doesn’t matter what the glaze is named as long as we have the right colours right?! here is a glaze recipe I just came across from a free CAD download. The glaze is eggshell pg 14 of https://ceramicartsnetwork.org/freebies/free-guides/33-tried-true-ceramic-glaze-recipes/ there is a picture but no explanation so I assume the pot only uses eggshell. I do see the RIO in there. i also love tea dust. Pg 12 there is a cone 10 tenmoku that works at cone 6 too. A Malmgren recipe of course. Which is hard to believe. Perhaps the surface in 6 won’t
  22. Ont where are from? East coast west coast or a non us country? Both sides have speckled claybody that you could use. At cone 6 I have not seen speckling caused by glaze, only from the claybody. Cone 10 I’ve seen a few glazes that gets its speckles from glaze additives. But that maybe due to my limited knowledge. Regarding mica (don’t know much about mica) but I do about ilmenite which gives the speckles in Speckled Buff Claybody from Laguna on the west coast. You need a certain grain size to be seen as speckles in the glaze. None of the stores where I live have coarse ilmenite. T
  23. If you want WHITE then use porcelain casting slip that you can dip into right after trimming. Though if you really want WHITE Use a white underglaze. Nothing in my experience will get you white under clear like underglaze. You are not going to see too much difference with engobe. Under clear it does not retain that white. Neither does Dave’s or Tom’s porcelain under clear. But white underglaze under clear remains white. Why are you getting both? To experiment? So the slip/engobe will act as a canvas right? If you are using underglaze to draw and wat
  24. Well you know there is a potter Sunshine Cobb who sand blasts her pieces to get the finish she likes. You are entering the world of multifires. As an experiment anything is possible. Most people just use another glaze on top. Just as long as you consider that your already glaze fired piece will never hold glaze the way a bisque piece would. Take pictures. make Notes. I am assuming you are talking about a pot and not an intricate sculpture. If you didn’t spend too much time doing intricate work, why not hold on to the piece and make another one. Then
  25. Thanks guys. This is the easy part. I can do a globular moon jar shape. Its the oblong seed jar shape I need help with. Which part is pulled out first to avoid collapse. The bottom or top? i haven’t had time at the wheel to experiment myself.
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