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hantremmer

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Everything posted by hantremmer

  1. Get in touch with the Leach pottery; they have a library on site, so perhaps its in one of their books and will spark someone's memory. EDIT - You could also try searching on Google Books.
  2. Thanks for all the feedback on bats, pins, pancakes and other bits and bobs.
  3. Joy - I don't understand what the wallpaper is for. Is it to prolong the life of the bat? Benzine - The teacher at my pottery class is reticent to drill holes in her wheelheads just in case something goes awry. I too was thinking about the repurcussions of the hole being at a slight angle. I don't have the tools to do it properly here, but I know someone with a woodworking workshop so I'll see if they can help. A already drilled wheelhead is a £170, so that's a lot of money.
  4. I bought the Xiem batmate, I think after reading about your experiences, but while initially I thought it was a solution for me I've found it hard to get it to the right moisture to stick properly. A few times when I've been centring it's slid off; it's been frustrating enough for me to put it down. I have used clay pancakes occasionally before, but I suppose I'm looking for a more permanent fix. Perhaps I will try to use them more consistency to see if it can be a part of my routine.
  5. Thanks for all the replies. I manged to get it off. I think the platter is 6-8mm thick and a little over 13" across (my wheelhead isn't 14" as I first thought, so my dimensions were off). I wired off with a curly wire. I had to use a 3mm thick piece of cardboard as a wareboard, so I lifted the platter up a little and placed the 'board underneath. Repeated a few times. WHen the platter was half way on I lifted it gently by the rim and placed it. The rim deformed a little and the platter was floppy, but not as badly as I expected. I left the rim thick, which helped. My Shimpo didn't come with holes for bat pins, but it does have marks on where to drill. So I'm thinking of drilling fresh ones or buying a already drilled wheelhead.
  6. I've got a similar issue - except I've got a 14" plate directly on a 14" wheelhead. No bat. Plate is thin enough that I can see the wire rippling the clay as I pull it underneath. I've covered it with a bag and am going to leave it overnight, so it will have 24 hours or so drying slowly. What tips to getting this off the wheel safely and (reasonably) undeformed?
  7. I might have read this here, but when my MDF bats warp I stack them one atop the other and put a heavy weight on them and leave them for a couple of days or so until they flatten out. When they warp again, I flatten them again.
  8. Update - The ink has started to appear underneath the pot where it's unglazed, the footring is pretty much entirely blue, though in different shades and darknesses. It doesn't seemed to have changed colour from the light blue / grey under the actual glaze.
  9. Thanks Babs. The glaze cracks were wide enough for the ink to flow, so that wasn't an issue this time I don't think. Out of interest how would you recommend heating the pot - in an oven or something?
  10. I'm going to leave it and see what happens. I have fired pots again, but moreso to get different results rather than better ones. Also I don't have a kiln, so I have to follow the timings and rules of the studio I go to. Babs, What would heating the pot do?
  11. I bought the registar's ink. I was told that it writes blue, but oxidises black. I brushed it over the crackle on my pot a few days ago. It brushed on blue, but hasn't gone black. The colour has shifted from blue to an egg-shell blue / slight grey. It's not as vibrant. Maybe it will continue to change in the coming weeks or months, but it's not what I hoped for. That's OK though, because this was an experiment. I don't have any reason to think it's an issue with the ink. There was also a lot of feathering in the cracks, where the ink has seeped into the clay. Perhaps I used too much or it's some other reason. The glaze has crackle, but that's not its selling point.
  12. Thanks for the suggestions and comments. Partly, I'm intrigued by the idea of using an ink that's designed to last and to see what happens - even if there are tried and testing ways of acheiving the same look.
  13. Callie, It's just a bowl, so one could put fruit in it. The thing I'm wondering about ink is how it will fade over time.
  14. Ahh, good point Callie. I was so busy looking for materials I ignored the context. Though I don't think it's food safe, I wonder if registrar's ink would work. It's an ink used when officiating weddings over here; it gets darker over time for a better record in the wedding records for signatures etc. I think it's an iron gall ink. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iron_gall_ink
  15. Has anyone used shoe polish for this? I have some black polish in a 'sponge stick' style bottle.
  16. I have an electric kettle in the studio. When I want warm water, I top it up with that.
  17. I emailed the Leach and they said the books are similar, but not the same - presumably because one is an exchange of letters between the two rather than articles. I've ordered the second book. When I'm able I'll post back here about them, though that might be some time.
  18. I'm interested in this book which is letters from Leach to Yanagi. https://www.leachpottery.com/books-dvds-sale/soetsu-yanagi-and-bernard-leach-letters-from-1912-1959 However I have - but haven't yet read - 'The Unknown Craftsman' by Yanagi. Link below. https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/1105345.The_Unknown_Craftsman I'm not sure if it's worth buying the book of letters. Does anyone here know about the books and can comment on how similar they are? Cheers
  19. One place I used to go to puts the firing date on pots using pricing stickers - you know the little ones that you get on products in your local grocery store. I think that's a good system.
  20. Thanks for the extra feedback. I've got questions to ask when I go to have other pots glazed. I'll report back with whatever happens.
  21. Thanks for the reply Fred. It must have been stamped after the first firing, to show the date of the bisque (although it wasn't actually a bisque firing). I will see if I can get it refired by the same place. I've got no idea what happens to terra sig if it's fired twice. It's not a pot I want to glaze.
  22. I had a lot of problems with my Shimpo Aspire, but despite Shimpo's help we weren't abel to fix it. It might have been because it was a grey import rather than an official one. I know they have them at the Leach Pottery, albeit in a classroom that, I think, is used for school visits and maybe evening classes and things like that.
  23. Unfortunately it's on the body of the pot, prominently displayed in the middle. I made the pot on a course - where we also learned to make terra sig - so it's annoying that this wasn't anticipated by the technicians.
  24. I made a pot and covered it with terra sig. Whoever fired it used a stamp to put the firing date on the pot. Now it says in black letters' 2 August'. I assume they thought it was a straight bisque firing, rather than a single-fire pot. The instructor didn't tell us to leave any notes with the items we fired. There's no glaze or anything else on the pot. How do I get the ink off? I've tried rubbing it with my finger and a bit of water, but no joy. Do I need to take a lighter to it or what?
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