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Everything posted by lbbloom

  1. Thank you all for your very helpful responses! As long as I don't have to worry about causing some sort of kiln damaging event I will give it a try; and also try making the hole first and latter inserting the nail. I hadn't though about different expansion rates.
  2. Would it be safe to bisque fire to cone 08 and then reduction fire to cone 10 a stoneware bowl that has a 6D 2" common steel nail that stick up through the center of the bowl?
  3. I've just started using an adjustable gauge that I got from Euclids. Here is the link: https://www.euclids.com/index.php?item_id=TFAPG What i like about it is that it pivots so that it does not get in my way.
  4. Many thanks for your help! I will fire the molds to 08 and will try out the other suggestions.
  5. I have made some hump molds using Standard Clay 112 (a mid-fire clay). My question is: do I need to fire it to cone 04 (as Standard recommends) or would it be better to fire it to cone 08 so that the clay will more easily release from the mold?
  6. I have been doing this with great success over the past 6 months for about 12 large wide shallow bowls and 6 medium deep bowls. I haven't used a cookie. I use stoneware fired to cone 10 in a gas kiln. no glaze drips, no rim deformities.
  7. I'm willing to assume the insurance risk because I am only shipping $30 mugs this way and I think that adding an additional box would make the shipping cost disproportionate to the cost of the item.
  8. I have shipped about 25 mugs that hold 10-16 ounces using a 10 inch square box with no problems. I bubble wrap the handle first then do 4 layers of bubble wrap over the whole mug, two inches of packing peanuts on the bottom of the shipping box and then fill with peanuts. Total weight usually falls under 2 pounds. I love the 10 inch square shipping box! Also, my local post office advised me to ship priority mail because ground shipped boxes get rougher treatment.
  9. Very interesting responses, thank you all so much. As long as I don't have to worry about explosions, I will try the wafer and be on the alert for warping. The reason for wanting to glaze the bottom is that I often eat out of bowl while cupping the bottom in my hand. I thought that the feeling of a continuous curve, uninterrupted by a foot ring, would be nice. Of course, I could just leave the underside unglazed. But thinking about this I wondered why I never saw a handmade ceramic bowl with a fully glazed bottom and unglazed rim.
  10. I want to glaze the bottom (and inside) of a bowl and leave the rim unglazed so that it can be placed in the kiln upside down, with the rim resting on the kiln shelf. The bowl will be fired to cone 10 and I will use a stable glaze. I am wondering if there is any technical reason that this should not be done. Maybe this like firing a glazed lid, which I have never done.
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