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Min

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  1. Like
    Min got a reaction from Smokey2 in Might I suggest   
    Admin was able to resolve this but it's going to take a little while for all the old links to be removed without deleting the (moved) post itself. The program tops out after reaching the maximum number per day so it's going to take a while to clear them all out. It starts with the oldest ones first. Once all the old ones are deleted then going forward new ones will stay up for 15 days then be deleted. New function so it's a bit of wait and see before we know for sure if it's working as expected.
  2. Like
    Min got a reaction from Roberta12 in spray gun   
    Thanks Roberta, Critters and Crickets oh my, my slip up. I'll go back and edit my first post.
  3. Like
    Min reacted to Roberta12 in spray gun   
    I think it is called the Critter.  I get it confused.......
  4. Like
    Min got a reaction from Benzine in spray gun   
    Basically there are two types of spray guns, ones that are gravity fed from the top where the glaze is in a cup/jar above the spray nozzle and bottom feeders where the cup/jar of glaze is below the spray nozzle. I've found the gravity feed ones clog more (even with the filter removed) than the bottom feeder types. I use a Critter HVLP (high volume low pressure) bottom feeder but have replaced the glass jar that comes with them with a plastic one. I use it at 40 psi for most glazes, it's easy to use and clean.
    Deb SchwartzkopfIf uses a Wagner paint sprayer, doesn't need a compressor, I don't know how well it works compared to the guns used with compressors. If you are only wanting to do a little bit of accent spraying you can use a can of propellant with a spray attachment. It is an expensive way to spray glaze though.
    Welcome to the forum.
     
  5. Like
    Min got a reaction from Bill Kielb in Kiln seems to be overfiring   
    If you are aiming for ^6 that cone is spot on. You are only talking a couple degrees between the tip being exactly at the same level as the top of the self supporting base. I'm not seeing a problem with the cone. Do your glazes look okay?
  6. Like
    Min got a reaction from GEP in Pugmill needed for full time potter?   
    Has anyone ever heard someone say they had regrets about buying a pugger?
  7. Like
    Min got a reaction from Pres in Pugmill needed for full time potter?   
    If you do decide to get a pugger you can totally skip the plaster step altogether if you get a mixer/pugger. I never have to soften scraps, anything from bone dry to slop gets thrown in the machine, add water to even out the moisture content then it gets mixed (usually for 10-15 minutes) before being pugged. Two separate steps, the first avoids all the hassle of having to use plaster to dry out the slop. I don't use plaster to dry out slop ever.
    I waited until after I had an injury to purchase my mixer/pugger, wish I had bought it years earlier. Can make do without it when you don't have one but it makes life much easier with one.
  8. Like
    Min got a reaction from Russ in Pugmill needed for full time potter?   
    Has anyone ever heard someone say they had regrets about buying a pugger?
  9. Like
    Min got a reaction from Callie Beller Diesel in Pugmill needed for full time potter?   
    Wish I could get clay for $0.40 lb! Mine runs at just over double that and that's with no shipping and bulk buying. (on a positive note I'll only have to reclycle 6,500 lbs)  
     
  10. Like
    Min got a reaction from Hulk in Pugmill needed for full time potter?   
    If you do decide to get a pugger you can totally skip the plaster step altogether if you get a mixer/pugger. I never have to soften scraps, anything from bone dry to slop gets thrown in the machine, add water to even out the moisture content then it gets mixed (usually for 10-15 minutes) before being pugged. Two separate steps, the first avoids all the hassle of having to use plaster to dry out the slop. I don't use plaster to dry out slop ever.
    I waited until after I had an injury to purchase my mixer/pugger, wish I had bought it years earlier. Can make do without it when you don't have one but it makes life much easier with one.
  11. Like
    Min got a reaction from Callie Beller Diesel in What Glazes/Underglaze to use???   
    Underglazes would be a good choice for that. Yes you can mix underglazes but the colours are not as predictable as with mixing paints. Stains used in the underglazes have a few different chemical structures that they are based on that don't always play nice with each other. Do some tests with them before committing to your real pots. The glaze you use overtop of the underglazes can effect the colours too so test that also.
    BTW you can put your IG link in your signature. Welcome to the forum!
  12. Like
    Min reacted to Callie Beller Diesel in What’s on your workbench?   
    Sun loosing heat, heh. It's snowing here now.

  13. Like
    Min got a reaction from Callie Beller Diesel in Screwed up firing, need help.   
    Take everything out and clean out all the shards and broken bits and vacuum out the element channels (power off to the kiln). Reload the kiln, look for hairline cracks in the surviving pieces and start the bisque firing again. The intact pieces will be fine to run through the bisque, don't need to toss the entire load. 
    Welcome to the forum.
  14. Like
    Min got a reaction from Roberta12 in spray gun   
    Problem with small compressors is if you are spending more than a short time spraying they are going to be running pretty much full on trying to keep up. The noise can get to you after a while. (hearing protection is a good idea for whatever you use to spray with) If you can have the compressor in another room and run an air hose to where you are spraying that helps with the noise too.
  15. Like
    Min reacted to Mark C. in What’s on your workbench?   
    Today a little production for Saturdays bisque fire
    Mugs (1 1/4 #ers) and some meduim bowls as well as cereal bowls
    all porcelain -mugs got finished today as did the cereal bowls ,all trimmed, larger bowls  will be trimmed in am tomorrow .
    The sun is loosing its heat and will not be able to dry  pots outside by Halloween -then its cook them and me until xmas inside.
     


  16. Like
    Min got a reaction from C.Banks in Signature worth money?   
    @C.Banks, psst, your Canadian is showing 
  17. Like
    Min got a reaction from Roberta12 in Signature worth money?   
    @C.Banks, psst, your Canadian is showing 
  18. Like
    Min reacted to C.Banks in Signature worth money?   
    This discussion reminds me of an old clayarts thread.
    The thread references Soetsu Yanagi and the romantic/idealistic notion of mingei.
    Without getting into my distaste for the flippant use of terms like wabi-sabi the work of folks like Warren Mackenzie inspire a more humble approach to self promotion that unfortunately is sometimes at odds with the 'new-age' internet business model.
    The influence of Soetsu Yanagis collection of essays: The Unknown Craftsman: A Japanese Insight Into Beauty seems to be slowly fading away unfortunately. We live in a vastly different world today which for better or worse underlines "[Soetsu Yanagi's] main criticism of individual craftsmen and modern artists...that they are overproud of their individualism."
    Bernard Leach goes on to say "I think I am right in saying Yanagi's belief was that the good artist [or] craftsman has no personal pride because in his soul he knows that any prowess he shows is evidence of that Other Power. Therefore what Yanagi says is 'Take heed of the humble; be what you are by birthright; there is no room for arrogance'.”
    These words were perhaps more easily lived even just 20 years ago.
    I'd like to think my best work carries itself on it's own merits. My signature certainly adds very little even when legible.
     
     
  19. Like
    Min reacted to Stephen in Signature worth money?   
    no dates, Not sure why but a date that is not recent just seems old. Have carted s few pots for multiple shows and then the right owner disovers it and bam, the best pot in the display. A date will take the shine off, a date makes it seem like an unsold lesser pot when really it just needed to be discovered by someone who was jazzed by it.
  20. Like
    Min reacted to glazenerd in Natural Dug Clay, Need Help   
    You are dealing with a property called "cementing."  This property is created by higher iron and alumina content which creates strong positive charges that "cement" particles together. It can be further compounded by the acidity of the clay. Without going down the clay chemistry rabbit hole: perhaps simple math. Negative charge = plasticity. Positive charge = cementing. In addition: alkalinity = deflocculation= plasticity. Acidity = flocculation= cementing. Cementing can be better understood as tight compaction/adhesion of adjoining clay particles. The solution requires more than just adding plasticizers; requires more chemistry than that. Start with a minimum addition of 10% Nep Sy or Mahavir potash (or whatever KnaO flux you have available to spike the alkalinity. You also need a broader dispersion of fine particle ball clay such as OM4, FHC, C&C, or other commercial ball clays. The starting point would be 65% wild clay, 10% Nep Sy (body flux, 15% OM4, and 10% silica. Start with a 1000 gram sample and test. Remember, plasticity can take 5-7 days to develop- it is not an instant reaction.
    Tom
     
  21. Like
    Min got a reaction from oldlady in black type on dark green is impossible to read.   
    Admin was able to change the black, all good now.
  22. Like
    Min got a reaction from Roberta12 in Signature worth money?   
    I'm a firm believer in having a legible stamp/signature, can't count the times I've gotten repeat orders from people contacting me from my stamp on the bottom of pots. All the work helps pay the bills, simple small pots (which are my best sellers) or one offs.
    You could always use 2 stamps/signatures, one for the bread and butter pots and another for your high end one offs.
  23. Like
    Min reacted to Hulk in Natural Dug Clay, Need Help   
    Hi DJJ!
    Whilst waiting on response (from clay experts), could you post some pics of your clay (wet, formed, dry, fired...) and identify the location?
    Folk have been digging, analyzing, classifying, documenting, etc. clay deposits for quite some time; the location might help generate a helpful response - county (in North Carolina?) might be close enough.
    fwiw, I'm adding a small amount of 80% OM4 ball clay, 10%feldspar, 10% silica to my reclaim (commercial wet pugged); doesn't take much to change the working properties!
    Hopefully, experienced natural clay harvesters will chime in here...
  24. Like
    Min got a reaction from Roberta12 in Wright's Water Blue Glaze flakes off of bisqueware   
    @Rita Mattson, are you brushing this glaze on also? Like was mentioned by Liam in your other post about issues with a clear glaze, a dipping glaze doesn't work well by brushing if it is only mixed with water. It needs to be made with either a commercial brushing medium or you need to make your own CMC gum solution and use that as part of the water content of the glaze. I think your cracking issue could be from too thick a layer of glaze. To make your own CMC brushing medium sprinkle 35 grams of CMC powder into 1 litre (or quart) of very hot water. Mix it up a bit, it will clump but don't worry about that for now. Leave it sit overnight then blend it with an immersion (stick) blender. There is no one magic amount of this you will need but for a start try using 1/3 brushing medium and 2/3 water when you mix up your glaze.  Since this glaze has a large amount of copper in it you won't need to add any to stop the CMC from rotting. For glaze recipes like your clear from the other thread add about 1/8 tsp of copper carbonate with the CMC, it acts as a preservative and the tiny amount won't effect the colour of the glaze.
    BTW this glaze will more than likely craze heavily on any pretty much any claybody. 
  25. Like
    Min got a reaction from Chilly in Signature worth money?   
    I'm a firm believer in having a legible stamp/signature, can't count the times I've gotten repeat orders from people contacting me from my stamp on the bottom of pots. All the work helps pay the bills, simple small pots (which are my best sellers) or one offs.
    You could always use 2 stamps/signatures, one for the bread and butter pots and another for your high end one offs.
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