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Min

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Everything posted by Min

  1. have to change your name from Maj0rMalfunct10n to CrisisAverted glad your problem was solved so easily!
  2. I would wait until the kiln is cool enough to unload then have a look at what happened to the cone in the sitter. Sounds like maybe your sitter needs adjusting or you could have set the backup timer shut-off for too short a time. If the cone in the sitter looks over melted then I would adjust it, in the following link skip the first page about replacing the tube and follow the parts for adjustment starting on page 2. http://www.archiebrayclay.com/content/10.15-Tube-Assembly-Replacement-Type-K.pdf Also, was the sitter cone placed properly? Yes, you can re-fire but I would figure ou
  3. a quick google search turned up Norman Kilns went out of business years ago but this place services them: http://www.brooklynkilnworks.com/repair.html so maybe they could tell you more about them if you have the model number???
  4. Thanks Bruce, nice to hear someone else has thoughts along the lines that I did. Now to just find the time to start experimenting. I've been wanting to break away from the type of work I've been doing for years, hopefully you have just kickstarted it
  5. Thanks Bruce, terrific post! Question for you, how would you say the pots in this link are done?http://sophiaclayart.squarespace.com/shop/ Her work is thrown. I'm guessing different coloured slips over red clay then scraped off with a wire brush, notched metal rib or something similar then some oxides brushed/dabbed on???
  6. Hi Min the crack has no glaze going down into it it just looks like a clean break. I use commercial underglazes and commercial clear glaze over the top am too new to start mixing my own yet!!! A lot of good advise given to you already but I'm wondering about cooling dunts starting at the weak spot of the pieces. How fast does your kiln cool down and how big are these pieces? Plus, what temp do you crack open the lid?
  7. Is the crack line sharp with no glaze rounding down into the cracks or does it look like the glaze went into the crack? Can you post your glaze recipe?
  8. Thanks guys! I'll look into the Bartlett V6-CF one, haven't used that one yet. Will probably make a second box for it.
  9. I just picked up a spare kiln. It's from Pottery Supply House (Euclids) and has never been used. It came with an Orton Autofire controller. Very basic touchpad, the manual that came with it is dated 1993. Anybody use one of these controllers? I'm thinking of switching the touchpad to a Skutt or Bartlett one. Any thoughts?
  10. Euclids sells the wire by the pound. The first time we ordered it they didn't put it on a spool and it kept tangling while we were winding and it was a royal pain to sort it out, so if you do order from them make sure they put it on a spool.We use 12 guage, elements last a lot longer but it is much harder to wind. The math does take some work to figure out, you will need to work out wire lengths for bottom, middle and top sections. Plus, take into account the diameter of the mandril you are winding onto plus the thickness of the wire so you don't land up with an element that is too fat for th
  11. From Edouard Bastarache M.D.Occupational & Environmental Medicine: http://digitalfire.com/4sight/hazards/ceramic_hazard_manganese_inorganic_compounds_toxicology_317.html As Colby said Bastarache's research also indicates the fumes from the kiln are the biggest hazard. "The inorganic compounds do not penetrate the body via skin like some organic compounds, such as certain tricarbonyls. Inhalation of dust or fume is the major route of entry in occupational manganese poisonning. Also inhaled large particles are ingested after mucociliary clearance from the lungs. Gastrointestinal ab
  12. Did you put the second and third coats on fairly soon after the base coat? Sometimes get flaking if the base coat is too dry. Another cause is from having a lot of kaolin in the glaze but since these are commercial glazes there is no way of knowing this. I would wash the glaze off, dry the pot and start over. Try the combo on a test tile first so if it flakes off again you are not wasting as much glaze.
  13. I think that is what we were talking about. Boron, calcium, zinc etc having an effect on the colour. Yes, you can get the glaze compatibility info from Mason Stains but with ug's we don't know what stain they have used so matching a correct glaze is a little more work.
  14. Do you have the purple stain numbers that worked handy? Spectrum Christmas Red and Hot Pink stay the proper intense colours they are supposed to be. I cut the Hot Pink 1:1 with white so it's a softer shell pink. (the pink fluxes at my bisque of 04 and makes it hard to glaze so I only put it on bisque) I use it with a low expansion glaze. G1215U ^6 EPK 14.00 Silica 26.00 Wollastonite 14.50 F-4 Feldspar 24.00 (sub Minspar) Frit 3249 20.00 98.50
  15. Excuse my ignorance but are the Duncan covercoat underglazes rated to go to ^6? I've had problems with violet and purple shades of Spectrum ug's fading to pale blue at ^6. Not sure if that's an issue of too much boron in the clear cover glaze. Without hijacking this thread has anyone had any luck with any of the Spectrum violet/purples at ^6?
  16. Hi Lou, this is the info I saw: I teach a clay class at McDaniel College , Westminster Maryland . We haven't used our Walker Pugmill in many years. It is in good shape. maybe a couple blades are bend but it runs and is ready to work. But I could not allow young students to operate it. All safety's are there but !!! I am thinking 1000.00 Ken Hankins, Shiloh Pottery . 410-239-8888 Seeya, Min

  17. Magnesium isn't that different but silica and alumina really are, between Nytal and Imerys, plus theres a difference in the calcium. Do you use glaze calc software? edit: I wonder if you emailed Ron Roy if he would have an analysis for your old talc? From Ron Roy:
  18. I think it would still work. If you ran a heat gun over the bits they should melt out. (heat gun on low setting so you don't blow it onto the unwaxed parts) Running the heat gun over then quickly wiping with a scrap of saran wrap leaves a really slick surface like using hot wax. Not a perfect solution but it would save throwing it out.
  19. Anybody use the ITC 213 for metals for an application like this? http://itccoatings.com/
  20. Ummm, don't say sorry! I think the terms engobe, underglaze and slip are all a little muddled. If "it" can go on dry greenware or bisque I think of it as an engobe or underglaze, if it doesn't work on those then I think of it as a slip, If Holly's underglaze can go on dry greenware or bisque then I don't think the amount of clay in it is really relevant. I was taught that if it contains less than 50% clay then it's an engobe, more than that then it's a slip. Don't know if those rules still apply?
  21. This is the recipe from my posting (#5 in this thread). I would add that ball milling any of the cadmium inclusion stains is a bad idea.
  22. Could be a secret ingredient but I think it's more likely that short of ball milling for hours we can't replicate the process to produce a colloid.
  23. Have you come across this article about home made underglazes? http://ceramicartsdaily.org/ceramic-supplies/underglaze-ceramic-supplies-2/how-to-make-homemade-underglazes/ I'm with you on being as self sufficient as possible as to making glazes and slips but with underglazes I agree with the summation made by Holly Goring that "the manufacturers do just a bit better, faster, and cheaper".
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