Kye

Hello all, I'm trying to find a way to create my own ceramic transfers, either for greenware or glazed work. At this point I'm contemplating buying an epson printer, filling with sublimation ink,and printing onto ceramic transfer paper. I'm not clear yet if this would withstand firing or not but I thinks its a fairly safe guess to say not, and that the image transfer would be the final stage. Any thoughts or recomendations? Has anyone tried to do this? Thanks!

Hi there. I'd recently bought one of the magical texture rollers. My bowl dried for about 3-4 days, when I finally got my hands on the roller. I then rolled out a ribbon line of texture, scored it and the bowl, and applied. Predictably as they were at different levels of dryness, there was a good amount of cracking to the ribbon. Seeing as if you put it on the pot too early, it will cave in, and too late.. well nevermind. As for the ribbon, if you don't do it right away because it's so thin it would be harder to bend and would start cracking. Can anyone recommend how to attache the two without cracking? Thanks. Note: the attached image shoes the bowl just after I'd attached the ribbon and you can see an area where I've started carving, the cracking I'm referring too are hairline and larger lines appearing all around the rim from top to bottom on the design face of the ribbon.

Hiya. A quick google left me wanting.. Bat pins: What are they generally made of? Will occasionally cleaning them with water, a toothbrush and a dunk in mineral oil help against rushing? Or really, is there some other lubricant that would be better for whatever they are made of? As for the basic wood tools.. I have been cleaning them weekly with a damp cloth and a good soak in mineral oil. Is there anything else preferable? Thanks In Advance.

Thanks! I ended up finding some dental tools, one with two different very slim pointed ends. I was able to simply scrape over the lines for what I was trying to carve out repeatedly. It took a bit of time, but I was very happy with the end result. I'll try to post here later. I have a scalpel if I can find it, and if i'm still looking for something else, Iove the look of that knife up above / the Dolan.

I notice in some of the top pallet colours you wrote an "X". Do you not recommend using those? Do they run? What does the x signify? Thanks!

Hi again everyone. I just wanted to come back in here and say thanks! I'm going to attempt to post some photos of my work "so far". I managed to get one very teeny yarn bowl done and gifted, mainly because I just couldn't wait any longer to spill the beans to my friend about what I was up too. I've since learned more great tricks from great people and am throwing bigger and better with every visit. If the pics don't work now I'll try to fix it from home. So the pictures are shown in reverse chronological order. The small bowl and birds are the only thing that have made it through the whole process. The bisque bowls I first saw last night, and the larger bowl I trimmed last night, sadly it seems to have warped a good deal. Next time I'll try to do the lettering upside down, perhaps that will be easier on the rim. Next up.. more of the same and trying out slip trailing as a raised decoration, also waiting on an MKM roller to make some detail around the top edge. I just can't get enough studio time! Edit: Horray for keyboards! Cellphones are not easy to post from.. OldLady - you are indeed a treasure. I can't thank you enough for sharing that pallet! I will find a way to get my hands on some of those glazes! bciskepottery - Thanks for the recommendation. My local library had the book, of course the colour I loved the most, I think called Candy Apple Green around page 100 in a photo, was not posted in the book sadly. GiselleNo5 - Thanks for the link and the compliment!

Thanks everyone. I ended up buying some sort of cotton looking filling stuff sold at a pottery store. Can't remember what it's called but it looks like a role of white cotton, and apparently it's made of glass. The picture below shows the finished birds. The white stuff needs to be ground off after the fact, but it gets the job done.

So am I seeing that everyone prefers non serrated over serrated then?

I love this topic! I honestly think part of the answer is that most people don't consider that the helpers might actually want a follow-up. I've never thought of it to be honest. But now that I have.. I'll make more effort to give a follow up. Maybe over time we'll start a trend I can say though, I return to certain forums infrequently, but eventually I'll find my way back there. With many questions.. the first few answers might be great but quickly devolve into sarcasm and stupidity. In those instances.. I feel dejected or stupid and hesitant to post any follow up. I have one seen where I asked one question.. respondents banter about getting silly, and someone had looked through my history and noted I never re posted afterward. So that time I did answer with the above mentioned reason s why. Anyway. So.. thanks for bringing this issue into consciousness. I'll be more aware of it in the future

The title says it all. What is your preferred tool for cutting leather hard clay? To date I've been poorly prepared and only had a non serated beginner triangle tool. I'm mainly interested in yarn bowls at this point, so I am looking for something to cut out a circular j wedge in leather hard bowl walls. I was about to buy a jewelers saw, and thought I'd check in here first. TIA.

Thanks everyone. To reply to Oldlady, I guess the easiest way to explain it, is like a salt and pepper shaker. I want to put a permanent hole, or indent in the bottom, so that I can "hang" it in the kiln on another piece of bisqueware. There' s no good place to leave unglazed that wouldn't be obvious, the bottom footprint is quite small, and if there's any glaze there's a good chance it would run. I was thinking maybe I could hang it over a cookie kinda like a hanging a hat on an older style or pole type coat rack. I will look into the alumina suggestion.

I can't find an answer on google, so i'm hoping to find some insight here . I am new to pottery, taking lessons at a studio that uses only a cone 10 reduction kiln. Yes.. I understand that this is great for durability.. but honestly I was sad when I realized I wouldn't be making bright yellow, green,purple and pink colours ect. I wanted to make very cheery items. So.. I thought I'd ask.. for a few select pieces.. in order to benefit from the cone 10 advantages, if I took a bowl, and either left it unglazed or clear glazed, then fired it at 10 in this shop, then took it to another shop and paid them to let me do a bright colour cone 6 glaze, would that work? Can you fire something cone 10 and then re fire at cone 4-06 just for glazing purposes? ? Some may ask why not just take everything to the cone 6 place.. I don't have a car and it's very inconvenient to get to the place that does do the cone 6 firing. AKA 20 minute walk after a 30 minute bus ride. But I might do it for the piece I have in mind. Thanks.

Hi there. I fairly new to pottery, and don't know much! I'm taking classes at a local studio, where they do cone 10 reduction firing. I've just hand built some small birds. For firing, once glazed, I m trying to figure out a way to have them raised up a bit so that they arn't sitting on any anything and there not much foot area. I was considering poking a small pencil sized hole on the base, and making something of a stand for the birds to sit on in the kiln, if that makes sense. My question is, would waxed pottery stick or fuse to unglazed pottery. Any thoughts? I've included a photo of the birds. Thanks.