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About skessel1

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  1. Yes, the blue is the underglaze. But why would it accept it fine the first time and then this time reject it?
  2. Hi all, I had a piece of pottery that developed a couple of cracks in the glaze on the handle and when my thumb rubbed it, a few chips came off. I decided to repaint the undergalze color on where the chip was and did a thin layer of clear overglaze just where I had repainted. Then THIS happened!!! Can anyone tell me why? There are places all along the handle that were perfect after the first glaze firing and after this second one (both at Cone 06), parts that I had not even touched basically burned away back to the bisque. I am so confused. Also, was I wrong to reapply the underglaze and overglaze and refire in an attempt to "fix" it? Thank you in advance. My heart is broken that this happened and I never want it to happen again!!
  3. you guys are the best. I love that... "experiment, but protect".
  4. Min, You are amazing! Thank you for explaining! For the mugs, was it earthenware or stoneware? I guess it had to be a clay meant for high fire, right? Since you fired to cone 6? And, was the clear glaze a high fire glaze? I have learned a lot from this situation, but have basically learned how much I don't know (A LOT). So, I appreciate everyone's willingness on this forum to share their years of experience and knowledge. I am truly grateful! I would like to experiment with some of my underglazes and then firing to cone 6, but I am worried about firing the bisque I have, identified as a low fire bisque, to cone 6. What will happen? Will it explode? Melt? THANK YOU SO MUCH!!
  5. one more question. If I do the writing in a high fire black glaze, let it dry, then glaze the whole thing with a clear high fire glaze, then fire it to cone 6, will that work? I'm sorry for all the questions. High fire is very new to me.
  6. OOps. Here it is: Can I use low fire glazes on Stoneware Bisque? Yes, except for clear glaze. Clear glaze will craze on Stoneware Bisque. You can apply some low-fire glazes to Stoneware Bisque and fire to Cone 6. Check your low fire glaze label for results at Cone 6. Alternately, you can fire the Stoneware Bisque to Cone 6 without any color, apply low-fire glazes, and fire the glazes to Cone 06. You will notice the color takes longer to dry with this method, as the Stoneware Bisque does not absorb any moisture from the low fire glaze.
  7. I just found this. Which method do you guys recommend. The firing of the unglazed stoneware to cone 6, then applying low-fire underglazes and glazes and firing again sounds like the safest method. What do you guys think??
  8. Hi again! Yes, this is low-fire bisque. I'm not sure to what cone it was bisqued. I will call the supplier to find out. That is good to know about the fact that low fire clear glazes will craze over time. Clearly that is not a product that a restaurant would be interested in. I would like to use earthenware bisque for this order, but i don't make pottery myself and don't know much about high fire. Could I still use low fire underglaze under a high fire clear glaze and have it turn out? What would be the best method to get the result in the above photo, i.e. hand-painted text under a clear glaze? You guys are amazing!!!!
  9. Alright you guys! I am at my whits end. I ordered a new, different clear glaze and new plates and I did the shock testing that Min suggested. Check this out. I put it in the oven for 20 minutes at 300 degrees, then put it in a bath of cold water. It IMMEDIATELY crazed. I am so stressed!! I will call the glaze and bisque manufacturer this week, but I have an order of 24 plates to deliver to this restaurant and don't know what to do! I have never made my own glaze before but if this glaze is as worthless as it appears, I am willing to try. I just need a food safe clear glaze. Please help me!!! THANK YOU!!!!!!!!
  10. Thank you so much for your responses. I am going to do some serious testing AND call my supplier. I have never seen this happen on any of my other pieces, so it's really confusing to me!! I will let you know what I find out. Thank you again for your help!!
  11. hi experts! Please help! One of my customers just sent me a picture of the plate that I hand-painted for them. They said they never used the dishwasher or microwave and were very gentle with it when hand washing and only used it for cold desserts. Please see the attached pictures. The cracking that you are seeing is on a plain rim dinner plate from bisque imports with only the Duncan Pure Brilliance clear overglaze on it. Why would this have happened? I will say that I had not sieved my dipping glaze in several months and when I did it was seriously clumpy and the sieve got clogged really quickly. Could that have been the reason? We are going to do some testing on some glazed plates since we sieved it, but if you guys have any other ideas, please help!!!
  12. I was using masking tape to mask an area and put it under a heat lamp to speed my process, but managed to melt a little of the adhesive onto the bisque. Do I need to fire the plate once with the underglaze to get the adhesive off and then add the clear glaze? Do I need to treat this adhesive like wax? You can see the adhesive in the picture below. I attempted scraping it off and was able to get some of it up, but not all. THANK YOU!
  13. Hi Min, To answer your question, all of the colors, orange, yellow and black are underglazes. After those were applied and dried, I dipped them in clear glaze. Now... If I did overfire... How do I fix that issue or where do I go to learn about how to fix it? I have an electric kiln and just use the automatic settings (I press cone 06, then slow, med, or fast, then a hold amount (I've been using 5 minutes)). Hi bciskepottery, You have me wondering about the Mayco underglaze... it was the black Mayco liner that was used. I just went to their website and this is what it said: "Designer Liner is not a dimensional product. If applied too thick or heavy, Designer Liner will crack and possibly pop off." I think this may have been the problem. Do you agree? It was not used as it should have been as a liner, but was put on too thick/heavy. Thanks again!!
  14. Thanks so much for the responses! I'm glad to know my kiln temperature is okay! That's a relief. --There was around a week in between completing the underglaze and dipping in the clear glaze, so I think I was okay there, but maybe I didn't let the glaze dry long enough before firing, as Joseph suggested?? I did my first dip around 10, let it dry about an hour, did my second dip around 11 (just to cover the un-dipped parts, not a full second dip, but you guys probably knew that's what I meant) and started the kiln around 2:30. It was definitely not completely dry, but to get it completely dry, it seems to take forever, like 24 hours at least... is that normal? How long should I be waiting between dipping and loading the kiln? Thanks again!
  15. Please help!! I have been using all commercial bisque and commercial underglazes (duncan and mayco) with duncan pure brilliance dipping glaze for several months now with mostly good success. This latest piece is troubling and I am not experienced enough to know what the problem is or how to fix it. Please see the attached photos. The black lettering is not "attached" to the body of the piece in a few areas and there seems to be tiny clear bubbles laying on the surface of only the black lettering. Also, the colored glaze is cracked in places, but only near the lettering... A few other side notes that may be helpful to know. #1--I attached a picture of the pyrometric cones used during this firing. The curved tip indicates that the kiln fired hotter than cone 06, correct? Is this what caused the problem? If so, how do I correct it? #2--The Pure Brilliance Dipping glaze is supposed to have a viscosity of 19-24. I was getting a 16-17. I'm pretty sure I accidentally introduced water to the glaze when wiping down the sides of the container with a sponge. I will try to siphon some of the water out, but could this lower viscosity level be the problem. #3--I had several other pieces firing at the same time and all of them turned out okay. Could the problem have been the thickness of the black underglaze applied? I am truly hoping one of you can help me, but I am also interested in other resources for troubleshooting, so I don't have to bother people. I would welcome recommendations of all kinds--books, websites, etc...
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