glazenerd

Rob:
You have magnetite (iron) bearing clay; somewhere in the 7-9% total iron content range. Classic terra cotta at cone 04, and chocolate brown at 6+. You will get red in thin layers, but if you get it too thick- orange/tan to brown as it gets thicker. Must be slow moving waters for that distribution of very fine particles; bit unusual. Also surprised there is no plasticity; Ord humus (organics) commonly found in lake/river/stream collection areas. NY State also has an unique variety of smecites; which is also highly plastic. From everything I have seen and read; 1-2 micron particle sizes 
The note of interest to me: “stays suspended” and “no plasticity.” Those two do not fit clay chemistry with one exception: high calcium content. Calcium will keep fine particles suspended when “common plasticizers” are absent. The melted blob at cone 6+ indicates total alumina content is 15% or less. If you want to work with it, I will post some fixes. If not, enjoy the wild clay adventure.
Tom

You are dealing with several issues:
1. Pyroplasticity (melted blob) is caused by low alumina levels in your wild clay; in this case under 15% total alumina. 2. Your clay is iron disulfide: other iron bearing clays do not produce black coring unless sulfide contamination occurs (very rare) Iron disulfide (iron pyrite) will produce sulfur monoxide when fired too quickly; this gas is a powerful flux which produces black glass- commonly called black coring in the pottery biz. Slow bisq speed is 108F per hour; which is the correct speed in this case. 3. The cracking pattern in part is caused by the black coring; which is subject to severe COE expansion/contraction issues. The cracking pattern is also caused in part by the lack of sub-micron (small) particle distribution. Iron bearing clays typically tend to be larger in particle size. Small particle (sub micron) clays add plasticity, but also create adhesion in this case. There are fixes, but it sounds like you are moving on anyway. 

You are dealing with several issues:
1. Pyroplasticity (melted blob) is caused by low alumina levels in your wild clay; in this case under 15% total alumina. 2. Your clay is iron disulfide: other iron bearing clays do not produce black coring unless sulfide contamination occurs (very rare) Iron disulfide (iron pyrite) will produce sulfur monoxide when fired too quickly; this gas is a powerful flux which produces black glass- commonly called black coring in the pottery biz. Slow bisq speed is 108F per hour; which is the correct speed in this case. 3. The cracking pattern in part is caused by the black coring; which is subject to severe COE expansion/contraction issues. The cracking pattern is also caused in part by the lack of sub-micron (small) particle distribution. Iron bearing clays typically tend to be larger in particle size. Small particle (sub micron) clays add plasticity, but also create adhesion in this case. There are fixes, but it sounds like you are moving on anyway. 

Matthew:
where you collected gives indication of mesh size. Most clay collected along water banks are obviously sedimentary, but pending how fast the water flows; usually find larger particle size. If you find a location along the creek/river where the current is slow; then you will most likely find smaller particle size clay. Did you test the clay without any additions before making the decision to add bentonite? Bentonite can be used, but it is not the best solution to create plasticity for many reasons. If you are after smooth; then theoretically you must increase small particle percentages (under 2 microns). Temper by wild clay definition is any large particle (20-40 mesh) added to create malleability, in lieu of plasticizers. 
You are actually talking about particle size distribution (PSD); a clay theorem that formulates a body based on %’s of large, medium, and small particles sizes. You are starting at 80 mesh from the description you posted. At this point, adding high percentages of fine mesh mullite, molochite, or kyanite would inhibit plasticity. All there of these are used to increase cone value, increase strength via mullite %, and or reduce warping when drying or firing. I do not know your firing method, or your peak cone value; so adding silica or feldspar would be a wild guess at this point. You can start with 60% wild clay, 20% Imco400 or Kentucky glaze#1, and 20% OM4 ball clay. In addition to smoothing out your clay; both additives will increase your dry time if you are doing large format pieces.
Tom

Matthew:
where you collected gives indication of mesh size. Most clay collected along water banks are obviously sedimentary, but pending how fast the water flows; usually find larger particle size. If you find a location along the creek/river where the current is slow; then you will most likely find smaller particle size clay. Did you test the clay without any additions before making the decision to add bentonite? Bentonite can be used, but it is not the best solution to create plasticity for many reasons. If you are after smooth; then theoretically you must increase small particle percentages (under 2 microns). Temper by wild clay definition is any large particle (20-40 mesh) added to create malleability, in lieu of plasticizers. 
You are actually talking about particle size distribution (PSD); a clay theorem that formulates a body based on %’s of large, medium, and small particles sizes. You are starting at 80 mesh from the description you posted. At this point, adding high percentages of fine mesh mullite, molochite, or kyanite would inhibit plasticity. All there of these are used to increase cone value, increase strength via mullite %, and or reduce warping when drying or firing. I do not know your firing method, or your peak cone value; so adding silica or feldspar would be a wild guess at this point. You can start with 60% wild clay, 20% Imco400 or Kentucky glaze#1, and 20% OM4 ball clay. In addition to smoothing out your clay; both additives will increase your dry time if you are doing large format pieces.
Tom

This problem seems oddly familiar to me. I had 2 Paragon kilns that the ever fatal error codes; and I likewise replaced thermocouple and elements of one of the two. After replacing both an one: the beloved error code again. So I took the thermocouple wiring block apart again and restrung the thermocouple wires again- another TC fail. Took it apart again; this time while I was mounting the terminal block back on the kiln; I noticed the thermocouple wires compressed, and touched each other. I took it apart again, this time I put some insulating fiber between the thermocouple wires and gently held them apart while mounting the terminal block back on the kiln wall…. No more TC error after that.
Tom

This problem seems oddly familiar to me. I had 2 Paragon kilns that the ever fatal error codes; and I likewise replaced thermocouple and elements of one of the two. After replacing both an one: the beloved error code again. So I took the thermocouple wiring block apart again and restrung the thermocouple wires again- another TC fail. Took it apart again; this time while I was mounting the terminal block back on the kiln; I noticed the thermocouple wires compressed, and touched each other. I took it apart again, this time I put some insulating fiber between the thermocouple wires and gently held them apart while mounting the terminal block back on the kiln wall…. No more TC error after that.
Tom

This problem seems oddly familiar to me. I had 2 Paragon kilns that the ever fatal error codes; and I likewise replaced thermocouple and elements of one of the two. After replacing both an one: the beloved error code again. So I took the thermocouple wiring block apart again and restrung the thermocouple wires again- another TC fail. Took it apart again; this time while I was mounting the terminal block back on the kiln; I noticed the thermocouple wires compressed, and touched each other. I took it apart again, this time I put some insulating fiber between the thermocouple wires and gently held them apart while mounting the terminal block back on the kiln wall…. No more TC error after that.
Tom

This problem seems oddly familiar to me. I had 2 Paragon kilns that the ever fatal error codes; and I likewise replaced thermocouple and elements of one of the two. After replacing both an one: the beloved error code again. So I took the thermocouple wiring block apart again and restrung the thermocouple wires again- another TC fail. Took it apart again; this time while I was mounting the terminal block back on the kiln; I noticed the thermocouple wires compressed, and touched each other. I took it apart again, this time I put some insulating fiber between the thermocouple wires and gently held them apart while mounting the terminal block back on the kiln wall…. No more TC error after that.
Tom

This problem seems oddly familiar to me. I had 2 Paragon kilns that the ever fatal error codes; and I likewise replaced thermocouple and elements of one of the two. After replacing both an one: the beloved error code again. So I took the thermocouple wiring block apart again and restrung the thermocouple wires again- another TC fail. Took it apart again; this time while I was mounting the terminal block back on the kiln; I noticed the thermocouple wires compressed, and touched each other. I took it apart again, this time I put some insulating fiber between the thermocouple wires and gently held them apart while mounting the terminal block back on the kiln wall…. No more TC error after that.
Tom

Grackle:
the technical aspects of your question: clay continues to expand up to 2050F; at that point, the porous body begins to contract until it hits maximum density. (Vitreous state). At cone 04; (1975F) the pores are smaller; therefore the absorption is less. As Hulk pointed out: cone 04 bisque absorbs less glaze. I have used cone 04 for decades because I can control glaze application better. 
Inorganics in clay; primarily in red, and darker brown bodies burn out between 1250-1750F. The reason a slow bisque fire is required for these types of clay: it takes up to 30 additional minutes of the ambient kiln temperature to penetrate an 1/2” clay wall.. The slow bisque cycle allows that to occur. As with all things clay: dive in and take cone 04 for a test drive and see if it works for you.
Tom

TY- I misread it. 

Ok if you read my post on buying back over $3500 new unused pottery from a horders estate sale for $450 then you know how starnge and rare that might be.
well lighning strikes again on that front
Today the day after Christmas at 4 pm I was bookkeeping on the desktop on a very rainy windy day. The phone rings and its the estate sale guy from 3 weeks ago. They found three more large boxes of my pottery and they need to get it gone. He says $100 for it all and you have to pick it up today. I had sanitized/reorganized my van on the only dry day Xmas afterr stuffing it full from taking xmas booth down xmas eve. I Jumped in and drove the 35 minutes back to that house. Last time it was jambed full-this time thay has a box moving trck and all that was left in the whole house was my pottery that they just found in 3 boxed in a hidden space in large kitchen under a counter back water area.  My guess is 1-2 k worth of stuff.I'll go thru it in a few days. Just like last time all new all still with sales tags on bottoms. I found out that this person bought my pots wrapped them and boxed them and put them away like xmas ornaments -all 5 k worth. She may have been my best customer-well its a toss up as another from the east coast who runs a private jet rental service may have her beat ? Hard to say as she bought dinnerware sets and lots of st=uff over time where as this lady bought it all in 3 years from one organic market before I quit them.
When I left the house a hour ago it was 100% empty of all contents-I drove home in disbelieve as Santa Extended xmas one more day at least to me
Merry xmas and Happy Holidays from Linda and Mark

The clay is locally sourced (wild) clay 1. Without additives. Wild clay typically comes in at a lower COE of commercial clay. 2.  Zoom in on the flaked areas, and you will see white flakes. Those flakes are most likely calcium based; IE lime pop. Those specks could also be silica based minerals- unmelted silica has a COE well above 10. At the moment; calcium tops my “probable” list.
Tom

As a friendly reminder from my front yard--

Yes. I took 4 years of wood working, and 4 years of architectural drafting. Small engine repair, lathe, metallurgy, welding, and 2 years of mechanical drafting. 2 years of electrical wiring, a semester of electrical motor repair. I took Home Ec my senior year, but I already knew how to cook. Some farm classes, which were pretty much useless because I was a farm boy anyway. I excelled in chemistry, always had a curiosity about it. Enrolled in a local college to major in chemistry until I realized I would spend the rest of my life in a cubicle- so I dropped out.
Tom

I went to a Composite high school, so yeah, there were all the home ec/welding/art/shop/automotive/beauty culture courses available. The school was set up as a precursor for trades or college or both. (Beauty culture is what they called it, but if you went through all the courses, you would up as a fully fledged hairdresser or esthetician). That was in the 90’s. 
Programs like this are still alive. My 14yo takes foods and fabrication as electives in jr high, and loves them. 
It’s hard for me to look at this question personally without viewing it through the lens of adhd, which, is highly heritable. I come from a long line of folks who were very smart, and didn’t hold still with any particular grace. Before computers, you either did things with your hands, or you went crazy. My Oma used to tell us that she had to give my dad stuff he could take apart and put back together, or he’d do it to something expensive like the TV. My mom’s side is all farmers and other flavours of highly capable people. So knitting, sewing, pouring candles, fixing things, projects involving creative reuse were going on constantly around me. I didn’t realize not everyone did that until I moved out and had roommates. 

As a friendly reminder from my front yard--

Yes. I took 4 years of wood working, and 4 years of architectural drafting. Small engine repair, lathe, metallurgy, welding, and 2 years of mechanical drafting. 2 years of electrical wiring, a semester of electrical motor repair. I took Home Ec my senior year, but I already knew how to cook. Some farm classes, which were pretty much useless because I was a farm boy anyway. I excelled in chemistry, always had a curiosity about it. Enrolled in a local college to major in chemistry until I realized I would spend the rest of my life in a cubicle- so I dropped out.
Tom

They know where "no hunting" is allowed.

Years back I did a 1/3 kaolin. 1/3 frit 3110, and the balance in silica and ball clay. Fired to cone 04 as I recall; very low absorption. It is very doable, and 1.5% absorption is well within reason. Enjoy the journey.
Tom

Turkey Retirement Home?

As a friendly reminder from my front yard--

Rebs:
Pinholes come from off-gassing feldspars: blisters come from off-gassing inorganics- primarily from iron disulfide. (sulfides) You either slow the firing down between 1250-to-1800F, or slow the kiln down from 2050F up to peak (cone5/6). The brown splotches of color in the tan area of your glaze is a goodindicator of iron bearing clay: in this case iron disulfide. When a crater forms around the blister, and barren clay can be seen in the center of the crater: almost always inorganic materials burning off. -- Tom

As a friendly reminder from my front yard--