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glazenerd

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Everything posted by glazenerd

  1. Well, its 1:30 AM Christmas morning and everyone has been asleep for awhile except me. Guess my Christmas present is obsessing over the huge variances in specifications for Colemanite/Calcium Borate. Not so sure there is that big of differences in product as there are in people filling out MSD sheets. Calcium Borate: DigitalFire: B2O3 55.37% CaO 44.63 (pure elemental) Calcium Borate: American Borate Co: B2O3 40.0% CaO 26.54% Calcium Metaborate: B2O3 42.5% CaO 34.7% I have 1KG/2.2lbs of Calcium Metaborate; which I am very happy with the results. Have not tried the 2lb sample that the prior specs were given- salesman emailed claim. For the moment I am going to use the Metaborate analysis because I am already testing it and it is a lab reagent grade. Will email the salesman about the other: but guessing 40% B2O3, with 30-32% CaO is more accurate. Perhaps he typo'ed the 50%, instead of 30%? Merry Christmas!!! Glaze Nerd
  2. Peter Was going by the specs given me by the national sales rep. The MDS sheet does not give percentages of elements, other than weight. Did not realize it was blended until I reviewed the spec sheet that came with the sample. Guess I need to run weights on a calculator to get exact percentages of elements: what I get for listening to salesmen. This product is heavily used in the ceramic tile business, but have not seen it in any clay/glaze stores. I have a series of floor tiles that I wanted to use it with to strengthen the glaze. Glaze Nerd
  3. Here is the material data sheet- and yes it does vary- Safety Data Sheet - Ground Colemanite 1.1. Product identifier Ground Colemanite (includes Calcined, Uncalcined, and Turkish) Colemanite - Di-calcium Hexaborate Pentahydrate 78.00-80.00 Calcite - Calcium Carbonate 8.00-12.00 Dolomite - Calcium Magnesium Carbonate 2.00-3.00 Clay 6.00-8.00 As it turns out 40% B2O3 is the minimum tested amount, but can be higher. The 50% CA is a baseline as well- but seems accurate. Glaze Nerd Certainly hope and pray that all our fellow potters and glazers down south, and points west are healthy, and their property is whole.
  4. Thanks Tyler: It has been discontinued according to Laguna. I had already looked up the chemical analysis: CA 18.88%. and B2O3 27.47%; which is fairly typical of standard gerstley borate: although they did add some calcium carb. It also has a fair amount of MgO and Na: which I am trying to avoid. Most gerstley or substitutes come from Ulexite, although the old Death Valley mine had limited veins of Colemanite/ Ulexite. Actually I was referring to a form of Colemanite from Turkey that is much purer: B203 40%, and CA 50%... the rest mainly Al203. One of these days I need to get around to trying some Raku firings. some interesting results from what I have seen. I have a 35 gallon heavy wall steel drum I have been saving for that day. Glaze Nerd
  5. Curious to know if any of my fellow glaze chemists have had the opportunity to use CB. If so, thoughts or perhaps issues you have encountered? Glaze Nerd
  6. Calcine to 1880F, and you will have a nearly white talc. Glaze Nerd
  7. Ty Marcia and John- most helpful. As it turns out my supplier already has booth space reserved. Looking forward to meeting people, been working and studying on my own for the last five years. "here on Glazeland island: --- which only means something to the children of the sixties. GlazeNerd
  8. Tim: and for those reasons I turned to chemistry. Have yet to find a single glaze book that truly defined crystalline glaze. I see phrases such as " has an affinity for." or "forms in a glassy matrix." That would satisfy most people, but not a glaze nerd. The hardest part of chemistry is figuring out what applies and what does not. Then figuring out of the sections that do apply, which laws, rates, and equations to use. For the record: frit is getting assigned O value: not even going to attempt sorting out the 7 ingredients. I am focusing only on silica, zinc, and lithium as a base: metal oxides are in reality the easy part. Actually a bit of reverse engineering so to speak: because I already know temps. In particular: Hess Law>reverse reactions- which should give me a kJ/mol. The only reason I have any interest in Gibbs- the rest can go in the trash. Once I get the info together, my good friend the trig guy can work the equations- I am not that smart. Truthfully, not even sure the chemistry route will even work: but it's the only route available that I am aware of. Glaze Nerd...... and a Merry Christmas to one and all.
  9. New to the forum, so it I get to ask stupid questions. Link to event, event location (besides KC), fees.. etc? Glaze Nerd. Realize it takes money to organize, pay for space, etc,. so I would expect to pay fees.
  10. Now that I have mostly retired, I plan on going as long as it does not cut into my recliner time. KC is only 3.5 hours from me, would enjoy meeting some of my fellow OCD (occupational ceramic diversions) artists. Need to contact Glenn as well, would like to hear his thoughts on clay formulation. Glaze Nerd
  11. Jed: I looked through your gallery and was immediately aware of your influences and style. Obviously you are captivated by 18-19th century architecture, as well as native American tribal traditions. You under-estimate your point of view artistically. Glaze Nerd
  12. Art is imagination, interpretation, and emotion. and craft is the knowledge of how to use the medium to create it.

    1. Evelyne Schoenmann

      Evelyne Schoenmann

      The ions of art and craft! Well said glazenerd.

  13. I would give them a piece of paper and a pencil and reply: "given your eye for art, please draw me a blank." Glaze Nerd
  14. TY John: After 42 years of building hospitals, high rises, and houses: it is actually nice to learn something new. In 2007, I was in antique store in Williamsburg. VA. staring at this piece that had macro crystals on it. Told the owner I wondered how many hours this artist took hand painting these perfectly formed patterns: not realizing it was a specialty glaze. Spent 2007 until 2011 typing in keyword searches trying to figure out what the crystals were. Finally I typed in macro crystals, and on the third page I came across a website of a potter: clicked it: finally!!! Spent the rest of 2011 and early 2012 reading, studying, researching the metes and bounds of what was required to make them. In early 2012, I spent my RV savings buying the kilns, equipment, and supplies to begin my big adventure: which included building a detached 26 x 44 studio with 400 amp service to run everything. By late summer of 2012 I began to realize I was dumber than a box of rocks about clay, forming techniques, and glaze calculations. Out of the 100 tiles I fired in my first load (attempt), one came out with a very small crystal. Of the sixty or so books I bought about clay, glaze, equipment, kilns, minerals, chemistry, along with nearly 1000-1200 hours a year of studying since 2012: I can grow a rather mean crystal. Was given several old kilns that I took apart, studied, and reassembled just to learn how to service a kiln. Spent a day at the local supply house learning how to make my own elements. At the current rate of learning, sometime in 2018 I might actually know something. Glaze Nerd
  15. From the album: Crystalline Glaze / Tile

    © Tile Art Studios 2013

  16. Sloan: Yes it is possible: two primary areas that help to control that is the amount of SiO2 in the formula. The second is the firing schedule on the way down. Most crystalline information focuses on the recipe and the upper firing/ ramp schedules. However, a controlled cooling from 1100F down to 250F can also solve alot of the problems. Some porcelain bodies work better with this glaze than others because their C>O>E is closer to the C>O>E of the glaze. Even if there are minor grazing issues, they can be remedied fairly easy with a strike fire. ( annealing). Glaze Nerd
  17. Dal Tile makes a 6 x 6 unglazed bisque wall tile. Check your local flooring dealer who sells Dal-Tile ceramic tile. It usually runs about .50 to .60 cents per 6 x 6 tile. It is primarily a talc body that is very easy to work with and fire. Glaze Nerd
  18. Elaine: First pull Cleveland up, which should also show all the surrounding suburbs. Make a list of all those communities and start doing a search: 1. type in the name of each suburb as a search: the local governments should have an official site. Click the site and go through the tabs: every community has a special events, local interests: etc on their official site. 2. It is very common for local artist, galleries, or other entities to advertise or make announcements on their local city government site. Communities that support or have a lot of art galleries will have an extensive list of those galleries. This also means that the city and its population support the arts. 3. There will also be census bureau data on their sites that give essential information about that community. This also includes median income for that community. If they show a median income of $45K and up also means they have some disposal income that you would like to have. 4. Be sure to click the community calendar link or tab. Gallery showings, community arts and crafts festivals, and other art related activities will be shown. Great way to pick up places to show and sell work. 5. Check the business link as well: often times galleries are listed there. Begin to build your database of galleries and begin a calendar of upcoming arts and crafts fair that fit your style/s. Glaze Nerd
  19. Look at the label this way: the kiln was designed and built for cone 8 use, but has enough power to fire to cone 10 if need be. A true cone 10 kiln has two design parameters that must be meet. The chamber must be a minimum of 3" K-23 IFB, but K-26 works even better because it stores and reflects heat back into the kiln. Additional fiberboard wrap is also useful for daily demands. The other issue is power: a true cone 10 should have a minimum of 1800-2000 watts per cubic foot of kiln space. My Paragon 1613-3 test kiln supplies almost 3600 watts per CF. So cone 10 kilns are either designed with 3" brick with more wattage, or 3" brick with extra fiberboard with less power. That is the misconception about wattage: people see the amperage and wattage and get spooked thinking their kiln will cost a fortune to run. However, just the opposite is true: an under rated kiln can draw 50% more power trying to achieve a temp it was not really designed for. I give people this analogy to help them comprehend wattage: your outdoor water spigot has a rated pressure. Hooking up a 1/4" hose will restrict flow, a 1/2 hose will let more water out; but a 3/4 hose will let the water flow unrestricted. Hope this helps everyone to understand chamber design and wattage. I have four cone 10 kilns, all with type S thermocouples. The one that uses the most power is the first one I bought that has the bare minimum of brick and power to do the job. Have a 6.5CF custom built with 3" brick, 2" fiberboard wrap, and 9800 watts: it cost me around $7 to fire a load to cone 10. The cost of running a kiln will eat up any money you saved by buying an underrated kiln for firings it was not designed for. Glaze Nerd
  20. Paul: The specifications for your kiln is 240V - 30 amp -R30 Nema outlet- with 5400 watt output: more than enough power for that size kiln. The specs also say 3" brick which is the correct minimum thickness for a cone 10 kiln. Assuming you have it wired correctly #10 wire with 30 amp breaker on a dedicated circuit: why the FTL code? The back of your kiln manual gives several possible solutions/ troubleshooting guides. I did notice in your kiln manual that if you select pre-programmed cone 6 schedule that the rate per hour temperatures drops substantially on the high end. I will assume if this is your second firing- it is a new kiln for you? 1. Have you cone tested the results of a cone 6 firing? Pending the bend of the cone- have you programmed a TC offset to bring your temperature read in line with the bending of the cone? 2. Did you order a type K or type S thermocouple with this kiln? If type S, is the thermocouple sheath damaged? FTL (fired too long) codes are commonly associated with thermocouple issues. Not uncommon for the wires to make contact at higher temperatures where they hook to the ceramic relay just outside the kiln> I do not recommend you attempt a thermocouple repair or maintenance check unless you are familiar with kiln repair. 3. Assuming this is a new kiln, would advise you to have your dealer check it. GlazeNerd
  21. Hi Chloe: I am new to this forum; my first post in fact. I work with crystalline glaze primarily, and cone 6 periodically. I custom mix all of my glazes, so I do not have any frame of reference for this commercial blend. With that said: crystalline glaze will only work in an oxidizing kiln environment due to the required chemical reaction called REDOX. The crystals form because the silica donates oxygen atoms to the zinc to create zinc silicate crystals: which will not happen in an oxygen starved environment. I would recommend you fire to the middle of the road: cone 7-8. Assuming you have a programmable controller: natural cool to 2018F and hold for one hour, then natural cool to 1945F and hold for one hour. You should produce an inner and outter growth ring at these temperatures: check which one has uniform growth. This will tell you which temp this perticular glaze mix likes. Zinc comes in several varities: and each has its own soaking temps that favors crystal development. If you are firing a cone 6 load anyway: then program a 15-20 minute hold to allow for extra heat work. I would also recommend you do small test tiles first to dial in the right soak temperatures. Once you have fired a few, post a pic so I can check crystal formation and development: then I will be able to tell you rather you need to increase or decrease soak temps. You can soak for several hours if you are after large crystals. Have fun- enjoy! My name is Tom: my local supplier assigned my moniker.
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